View Full Version : Reconstruction has begun.

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12-04-2009, 09:47 AM
Well I got a lot done over the last couple of weekends and the delivery is apart. Now it is time to put her back together. I am going to fit the new floors, cut out the old ones, and bring her down to the shop for a good media blasting. Then I will put the new floors in and see how much more repair work to the metal is needed. I hope it doesn't get much worse than what I can already see. Any way I will keep you updated and shoot some more pics as we go along. If you see anything going wrong please feel free to let me know. I have not done a restoration quite this extensive before so this is partly learn as you go for me. Thanks Guys.. Steve H.:NERVOUS:

12-04-2009, 07:56 PM
It's looking good so far. Are you going to remove the wiring harness and the rest of the small bits?

I'll bet you have a rust issue in the cowl. It wouldn't take much effort to pull the cowl vent. Get a spot weld cutter and drill out the welds and it will come off. Then cut out the bad and weld in new steel.

What are the plans for this one? L6? V8? Turbine? What suspension? Tranny?

12-04-2009, 09:28 PM
Looks like all the wiring is out of it... that last picture I think was a "before" picture. But it does look like the strut-rod nuts might be unwilling to come loose... and maybe the screws holding on the striker plates. Kroil, I say.

I was going to ask as well whether you were able to ascertain the condition of the cowl? I started to drill those out on a Ranchero had once and after starting to drill out about 100 spot welds I decided to abandon the car before I got that far. :o I wonder to this day if anyone ever go it to the place you are at here. Keep up the progress pics!

12-04-2009, 10:56 PM
I've been thinking. I know, that's never good.

Picture this. Paint the delivery satin black. Not flat, you want a bit of shine. Lower it a couple of inches to get the right stance. Add red pin-striping and make up a garage name for the panel area. Make it look like a vintage shop truck. Better yet, use your own business name.

For wheels, use these in 15".


Maybe some Coker reproduction Redline tires.

12-05-2009, 11:07 PM
I painted that Mustang I worked on and my 67 Pickup Satin Black (#7777 Rustoleum Enamel). Stealthy...


12-07-2009, 09:26 AM
Wow you guys have a good eye. The strut rods finally came loose. Lots of free-all and a few (lots) of 4 letter words. The sedan is stripped now and I have cut out the back cargo floor area, and the passenger floor area. I will cut out the drivers floor next and then it is down to the shop for a media blasting session.
The cowl area is not too bad, except for the passenger side. The ring is rotted out but the rest looks pretty solid. If this was not a rare car (1 of 113) I think I may have reconsidered the rebuild. But I have wanted one for 15 years so I am going for it.
I like the idea for paint. I started that way, but the wife wants blue with the panel in a silvery gray color?? I haven't made up my mind. She has her car so this one is mine. The powder coating shop logo is definitely going on the side.
Any how I will shoot a couple of more pics so you can see how much is cut off the car at this point and keep you all posted. Thanks for the support and input. Steve H.:D

12-07-2009, 10:05 AM
Was looking at the post again and I missed a bunch of questions.
OK, I like the wheels those are going to the top of my choices list. i want something cool but not over used.
As far as the build; 347 stroker, AOD trans, 9" rear posi 4:11 gears. I am still on the fence for suspension. I ahve had a few good options from you guys so far just not sure if I am going with springs or air bags? Not sure on the steering yet either. Do I leave it stock or go with a rack and pinion?? I am going simple with the brakes. Disk front drum rear. I will keep the original trans just in case but the motor is a 200 6cly not the 144 so I will get rid of it. I'll keep the rear axle around as well, that way I can go back to original if the car becomes worth millions. (haha)
Anyway that is the plan so far. Look for more pics tomorrow with big hole in the floor area.

12-08-2009, 09:46 AM
Ok here are some updated pics I took last night. I looked at removing the cowl piece. Wow that looks like a big job. Inner fenders dash and firewall all need to come loose??? Maybe I need to find an easier way to do that part. Any ideas???

12-08-2009, 04:13 PM
Maybe I need to find an easier way to do that part. Any ideas???

Another trick is to cut the cowl sides off. This is the area covered by the fenders. Cut both sides off and you get good but not great access to the cowl. Save the pieces and weld them back in place after the repairs are made.

That is a big hole. Really big hole. I see a couple of welders in the background. They will be getting a workout soon.

Now would be a good time to add subframe connectors.

12-08-2009, 04:50 PM
Well I figured if I am replacing part of the floor, I might as well make it all good. I like the idea for the cowl. Mine already had places that have been cut out and welded back in so I think I will look at that first.
Sub-frame connectors are being ordered tomorrow. Who has the best ones. I was going to get them from Dearborn??
Anyhow in the background is a welder and a plasma cutter, both are going to be very handy real soon.
Thanks for the help and advise and I will keep you posted.:rocker:

12-08-2009, 05:25 PM
Sub-frame connectors are being ordered tomorrow. Who has the best ones.

Global West


12-14-2009, 09:46 AM
Didn't do a lot on the car itself this weekend, but I did get the doors fixed and the hood fixed up. Now I will put them in a powder coat primer and get ready for the body work. Hopefully will get the car to the shop over Christmas break and get it blasted down and ready for powder..
Have a little more grinding to do on the weld spots but I think the hinge plate replacement came out well. First time I have tried anything like this?

12-14-2009, 10:33 AM
Powdercoat primer? I've not heard of that. I did powder coat my engine block to match my interior.

12-14-2009, 02:49 PM
I spoke with my powder supplier and he gave me powders that are being used specifically for under automotive type paints. He said they have had good results and with powder it seals and bonds to the metal. He said I can do my body work and any other primers and paints right over the top. Hopefully it will work as good as he says. Time will tell...

12-14-2009, 03:55 PM
I did a lot of powder coating on mine. I'm sure you will to being in the business.

Things I coated include bumper brackets, tow loops, headlight buckets, hood hinges, splash shields, suspension parts (not springs), fender support brackets, engine block, and timing cover. I'm sure I'm missing something.

12-14-2009, 05:09 PM
Most definitely!! I plan on powder coating the whole car. At least the base under the paint. But any brackets ,pulleys, mounts, even the springs will get the treatment. I am powdering the doors, and hood tomorrow, as well as the hood springs and latches. I'll bring the fenders down next week and see how bad those are?!? I put up some more pics when I get those done.

01-04-2010, 09:38 AM
Got a bunch done over the holiday's. Here where she is now.
Sandblasted the entire car. (6hrs)
Removed side panels, and anything else to clean out the last of the rust.
Hopefully I can run it down to the shop one more time for a final blasting before starting the reassembly of all the sheet metal. Couple of suprises but all in all it was what I was expecting but not hoping for.
Anyway here are a few pics and I will keep you posted.[thumb]

01-04-2010, 06:33 PM
Man that looks familiar. I sandblasted my Futura myself and that was one of the dirtiest jobs I ever tackled. Think I would pay someone if I did it again. I am not sure if I understand the powder coat primer issue. Can you explain it further. I can't see how to use powder coat for primer when it will be necessary to block sand almost all the primer to get the body straight and apply filler if/as required. Good luck with everything and I enjoy the pics on your progress. Larry

01-04-2010, 07:18 PM
It's looking good - and naked. Keep us posted on the progress. It's fun to read about. Especialy when my garage is too cold to work in.

I share Larry's concirn with the powder coating primer. I would wipe it all down with wax a grease remover and get a coat of PPG DPLF on all exposed metal. Then start and repairs and/or fabrication. All of the fillers I've used specify that they be applies on properly prepared bare metal. The usually means that you strip the area of the repair prior to mixing the filler. Then reapply good epoxy over the repair to keep moisture out.

01-05-2010, 10:46 AM
Sure is going to look purty when you're done.

01-05-2010, 12:17 PM
The powder primer is basically the same as a sealer primer to keep everything from rusting up again. The Cardinal Powders rep told me to scuff the surface to about 80 grit and apply the body filler the same as if on the bare metal. He said they have had excellent results doing this. He told me that Caterpillar and John Deer are doing this process now. I will keep you posted on my results. I have the doors and hood in primer now. The advantage to the powder that he (Clint) explained was the powder is bonded to the metal, so unless I take it off no rust or anything else will damage it.
Like I said it is a new process to me and I will let you know how it goes, good or bad.
I am glad you guys are enjoying the pics. I am more concerned that I was boring people to death. I will start the next part which is sheet metal replacement. Thanks for all the advise and I will keep it coming. Steve:)

01-05-2010, 07:09 PM
For sure, keep up the posts. We don't bore easily. Glad you've got a warm place to work. It's still colder in my garage than it is outside.

I was going to suggest you ought to remove the front splash shields, but it appears by the last picture you had already. Seems you have some rust-out in the cowl too. Have you ever considered investing in one of those metal sprayers for your shop? It would be perfect for those thinned areas. Maybe an investment you can write-off your taxes for work -- and use it on the car where it got a little thin. Those look to be pretty cool when I see their demonstation at the swap meets.

The thing that amazes me is how easy it would be to make a clone Sedan Delivery from any tudor wagon. Maybe someday when I get tired of having a wagon I'll do that. :ROTFLMAO: OK, maybe not.

01-06-2010, 09:17 AM
I will keep them coming. I have a friend that has one of those metal sprayer machines. He is going to look at the car when I get the last blasting done before I start putting the pieces back on. Could save me a bunch of work. I have seen him do this process before and it is very cool.
I am going to have him patch the floor piece between the front floors and the wagon area because that piece look like a pain to cut out and find a good replacement one.
Anyway I am glad you guy enjoy the posts, however my shop at home isn't heated (yet). I have a wood stove for it but still need to install the chimney. Gotta order the part for it today so maybe next week I can heat it up. Meantime if it gets too bad I can always go to the office, I have a 8'X8'X20' heater down there. (haha).

01-11-2010, 09:32 AM
Did not get anything done on the Sedan delivery this weekend. I spent it all pulling apart the 61 4 door wagon I got for parts. If any one needs anything from this car let me know. I got it for sheet metal parts that I can't buy.
So I took the cowl off this car to see how hard it was going to be. 105 spot welds later I got it off. Sooo I think I an going to take the one off of the delivery as well. It will really make me feel better about getting ALL the problem areas handled. I think I am going to go after the dash as well. The deliver has some rust issues on the bottom of it and I think a clean swap will be better than a patch job. Now all I have left is everything. I am still after the floor in the back as well as most of the tailgate area. I guess it just requires patience and a lot of 4 letter words. Oh well I'll just keep plunking along and hopefully in a couple more weekends I can start putting the delivery back together.:confused::doh:

01-18-2010, 09:40 AM
Quick update for you. I pulled the dash from the parts car and started the process of pulling the cowl from the delivery. I think I am an expert on spot weld drilling now. Anyway Roger stopped by an has seen the carnage first hand and I have sworn him to secrecy on how bad this car really is.
I am going to start replacing the rust this weekend and I will put up some detail pics of each bad area, so if you see anything I do wrong let me know. Thanks and have a good week. Steve H.

01-18-2010, 10:00 AM
Carnage? What carnage? :rolleyes:

I'll not say what I saw (exactly), but this is the closest look I gave it: :WHATTHE: then moments later, after realizing I was not breathing, it was... :eek:

Then I looked at the other wagon, which had tons of good sheetmetal on it and said, ah, piece of cake. But instead of cake I all the sudden had a hankerin' for a ham and swiss on rye. :ROTFLMAO:

Suffice it to say Steve has got his hands full. Nothing that can't be overcome, but man, the pictures don't do justice to the work he's done already and has yet to do. I have to give him a [thumb] for looking beyond what is to see what can be.

I will say, that those of us with two-door wagons are 4 pieces of metal (per side) away from having a sedan delivery. They are the same cars up to a point, then they could go either way. Steve could easily convert to a two-door wagon as we could convert to a delivery.

Also a big thanks for the last bits needed to convert my rear window to electric. I cleaned all that up last night. Still confused about one connection, but I'll figure it out.

01-19-2010, 10:37 AM
Hang in there Steve. When I had my Futura down to bare bones and was cutting, welding and it looked like a junk pile, folks were saying I would never get it all done and back together. They kept referencing all the "Projects" for sale on ebay and craigslist to prove it was too much work.
It is a ton of work. It costs a bunch of money. More work and money than I ever considered. BUT. They don't understand the satisfaction we get and how much better it is to do this instead of watching TV or playing video games. Still do some of that also.
I saw a truck being auctioned on Barrett Jacson awhile back and they mentioned there were over 3000 hours of build time to get it done. My car will never look as good as that one and I am getting close to 20.000 hours on mine. Kidding, just seems that way.
I thought for sure I would get my car done for the Hot August Nights in Reno last year. Now I am just hoping to get it done in time for this years event.
You just keep seeing things get done and then it moves you on to the next step. And bless this club for all the help and encouragement.

01-19-2010, 01:22 PM
Amen to that. As long as I can keep the motivation high and my future vision goggles clean I will get it done. Thanks for the encouragement, and the pics of how well yours turned out so far. I will be bending your ear when it come time for the shinny stuff. Thanks Steve[BOW]:BEER:

01-25-2010, 09:23 AM
Got out in the shop and got at it again this weekend. Got the wood stove hooked up so it is nice and toasty out there.[yay]
Anyway got the old cowl and dash removed from the delivery and fit up the replacements. All is good so far. I will sand blast the car once more and then cut out the bad area under the cowl and replace it with the good stuff from the parts car. Then I will put the good dash and good cowl in the delivery for the last time.;)
Next up is the front lower rocker replacement. I cut good pieces off of the parts car so I need to fit them up and weld them in. That will be next weekends job. I will get some pics up of stuff probably every Monday so keep tuned in. Later Steve:banana:

01-25-2010, 11:04 PM
Well, you can see where a lot of the internal water damage came from. The air vent walls are really holy, or is that wholly? :D Water would have poured in through those.

Little here, little there. Oh, and in the next couple/few weeks I'll make a run over and help you for a day if you want. Looks like fun.


01-26-2010, 09:41 AM
Well, I have the car down at the work shop now and will blast it again today. So this weekend I will fix the cowl vent areas and maybe get the replacement cowl in and possibly the dash as well. After that I am moving on to the lower front rocker pieces.
I figured I would work my way from the front to the back. Anyway it is what it is and that is all that it is??

02-08-2010, 12:01 PM
OK so here is where we are at now. Cut out the old cowl and put in the new one, replaced the upper cowl piece, and got the new dash in as well. I should get my sub-frame connectors in today so those can go in next week, and I will start on the floors. Talked with my buddy that sprays metal and we will do all of the floors top and bottom when the new panels are in. So enjoy the pics and let me know what you think.:BEER:
I got in a hurry and forgot to take A picture of the lower cowl installed! OOps, trust me it looks just like the upper does. Steve...:confused:

02-08-2010, 10:50 PM
I hope you filled in the swiss cheese in that cowl before fitting the top.

Jeff W
02-09-2010, 01:01 AM
Thanks for the regular updates. It's fun to watch and learn with you. Jeff

BillP 98201
02-09-2010, 09:15 AM
Nice job Steve, looks like you are making good progress. Keep it up! [thumb]

02-09-2010, 09:19 AM
I wish I wouldn't have brain farted, I replace that whole lower cowl piece with a good one. The one in the pic is the one I replaced.. The replacement piece had no holes or rust on it and I powder coated it before I welded it in place. The upper is powder coated as well as the dash. That is that new primer powder I was talking about before. I think a little more clean up on the welds and it is off to work on the rockers and sub-frame connectors. After that the front floors go back in. It is nice to be putting some part back on the car for a change.:banana:

02-09-2010, 11:00 PM
Nice job Steve! Glad to see it's going together for you. I know you've got a lot more to go. Thanks for keeping us up-to-date on your progress!

02-15-2010, 09:45 AM
Got to work on the sedan this Sunday for a few hours, so here is what got done.
Sub-Frame connectors are in. Nice units.
Cut out passenger front rocker and replaced with good metal. Took a lot of fitment time but came out pretty good. I put the door in place with bungee cords just to see how it looked. Now I need to do the same on the driver side and it will be off to the floor pans. Speaking of floor pans, I spoke with my metal spraying buddy and he said we will spray the whole floor top and bottom when I am ready. He said we will use a zinc- alluminum mix and it will fill all the small holes and rust proof the cars floors. I will take lots of pictures of that.
Anyway enjoy the new pics and as always comments good or bad are always welcome. Later Steve.;)

02-15-2010, 01:01 PM
Great update Steve. I don't think you are afraid to tackle anything. I would be a little aprehensive in some of this stuff. Thanks for keeping us up to speed with the work. Larry

02-15-2010, 04:10 PM
Thanks. I just don't know if it is no fear, or too dumb to know any better. But like they say, you don't know until you try. Besides Roger said he would come and fix anything I mess up.:ROTFLMAO:

02-15-2010, 08:57 PM
Besides Roger said he would come and fix anything I mess up.:ROTFLMAO:

Did I say that? :confused: I must have been hallucinating.

Steve, just let me know when to come. I'm good at applying Bondo. Or I could just bring my texture hopper and then paint it with latex paint. That's what you do, isn't it? :D

Badbird said: I don't think you are afraid to tackle anything.

Actually I think it's more a case of ignorance is bliss. :p I would be afraid. Very afraid.

02-16-2010, 05:53 PM
I usually just find a big shovel and a large trowel and go for it.:rolleyes:
Problem is finding a large enough bucket "O" bondo to last.

03-22-2010, 08:07 AM
Finally got to work on the delivery this weekend. Did not get a lot done but it was a time consuming job. I finally got the drivers floor pan in, it took a lot of fitment but I think it went in well. Next week, the passenger side.[yay]

03-22-2010, 08:12 PM
Inch by inch... but it's looking pretty good there Steve. Are you going to put a floor hump in for a 4-speed? You may have said already...

BillP 98201
03-23-2010, 07:18 AM
Nice work Steve. You are coming along nicely.
I think Roger should show us his painting talents at the next tech day. :ROTFLMAO:

03-23-2010, 08:37 AM
I am going with a AOD in this car, so I will be filling up that hole soon. When I get the floors done I will get them sprayed with that metal sray that my friend does. I will let you know how that goes.!!

03-23-2010, 08:56 PM
Nice work Steve. You are coming along nicely.
I think Roger should show us his painting talents at the next tech day. :ROTFLMAO:

I can lay down the semi-flat black along with the best of them. [thumb]

03-29-2010, 12:59 PM
How are you with metal stretching? I learned that valuable lesson of measure six f*#@ing times and cut once. I have a bit of a gap to fix on the passanger floor. Oh well, not a big deal just more work and a lesson learned. Other than that it went well. As soon as I fix the gaps it is on to the back of the car. It is soooo cool to get new parts into the car and see some progress.:banana: SO all you guys that are working on yours do not dismay it will all come together in the end. Enjoy the pics and laugh all you want. i know I goofed.:D Later Steve.

P.S. Sorry for the crapy pics. My flash wasn't cooperating this morning.

03-29-2010, 01:58 PM
That could be either air conditioning or a heater depending on what the temperature is under the car. So I guess you needed a 7th measurement? :confused:

One suggestion... use the cardboard shims they sell at the home center for shimming out sheet-rock and regular cardboard to tape up a template of what you are trying to fit -- and then transfer that over to the real part. If it fit as cardboard, it should fit as steel. [thumb]

Otherwise, thats' a minor thing to patch, since being hidden under the carpets it doesn't need to be real pretty. Doing that on the roof will not be so easy to cover for. :NERVOUS:

03-29-2010, 02:50 PM
I hear you. Just a little more work and it will be fine. I'm just pissed at myself for doing it. I will try the template trick when I get to the drip rails and stuff on the back of the car.:confused: Thanks for the tip.. Steve

04-12-2010, 08:28 AM
Well didn't work on the car itself much this weekend. I spent most of it carving up the parts car and sandblasting the parts. But here is all that good sheet metal Rodger was talking about. Now I just need to spend a lot of time fitting and trimming to get this part right.
I love it when a plan comes together.:banana:

04-13-2010, 08:40 PM
Oh boy... I kind'a want to watch. ;)

Jeff W
04-13-2010, 11:43 PM
I wish my cargo floor was that clean.

What Media do you use in your blaster?

04-14-2010, 08:16 AM
I will be over in Seattle on Saturday, I picked up a 62 Ranchero for free. Well I will powder coat a frame for a guy in trade but close enough.
I think I will start on the panels on Sunday probably do the floor first so if you want to watch (or help) let me know.
I use mainly clean blast for stripping, it is a copper slag that is pretty aggressive but leaves a perfect finish for my powder to adhere to. I have another floor that I have stripped here if anyone is looking for one. It has a few small holes but nothing that can't be tacked up. Also if anyone needs parts from a 4 door wagon let me know and I will bring them with me. I have good glass except the back and front windows, all four doors are good and much more. Look for (hopefully) more pics on Monday.:o

Jeff W
04-14-2010, 03:57 PM
I don't think I have the ambition to replace my entire cargo area... I'll just patch what I have for now.

I'm still interested in that little removable floor section behind the rear seat and your spare, tire cover. If your planning on coming over for the Monroe Swap Meet - we could meet then. Please to shoot me a price you are looking for on those.

I am going to buy a smallish blast cabinet (Probably the Summit SUM-919050) for things like bumper brackets, air cleaner and steel wheels. The items will be shot with a rattle can rather than powdercoat. Would you still recommend the same media? Hopefully something that can be recycled more than a couple of times. I see "Starbast" by DuPont coming up often in searches. I'll need about 50 pounds to fill the cabinet - it's about $60 to my door.

Thanks for any advice -

04-14-2010, 04:26 PM
The kleen blast will be too heavy for a smaller cabinet. Save your money on shipping and drive down to the Kleen Blast facility in Tacoma. They have 30 different types of media there. I would probably lean more towards an aluminum oxide for the smaller unit. That or a courser grit of ground glass, not glass bead, but ground glass. Glass bead is very fine it leaves a excellent finish but takes longer to get the metal clean. I buy the kleen blast for about $6 per 100lb bag, and my glass bead runs about $35 a 50lb bag. You could ask them about kleen blast in different grits as well I use a 35 grit in my blast room. Hope this helps. :)

Jeff W
04-14-2010, 05:43 PM
That is great help. Thank you. I have heard you have to be more selective when choosing media with a non-pressurized blaster.


04-15-2010, 08:19 AM
No problem glad to help when I can...

04-19-2010, 08:39 AM
Well I got the rear floor in and it looks real good. Now I got to put the quarters in and the upper rain gutter pieces. Hopefully they will go in as good as the rest. Enjoy the pics and I will keep them coming.
Later Steve[yay]
Oh yeah gotta test fit the seat!!!

BillP 98201
04-20-2010, 07:07 AM
Looks great Steve..... Are you starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel? :rocker:

04-20-2010, 08:14 AM
There is just this slight twinkle in the horizon now. It sure feels good to get some new parts on the car instead of tearing it down all the time.
Also I was over in Shorline this weekend and picked up the complete front 5 lug front suspension from a 63 falcon and the 8" 5 lug rear axle as well. I stole those for $150!!:rocker: For an extra $50 he through in 4 wheels and tires and a new set of brakes for the rear.:D Craigs list is your friend..

04-20-2010, 10:12 AM
Nice deal! Is this person parting out a `63? Joanna is looking for a driver's side fresh air vent box. Hers is missing a door.

04-20-2010, 11:18 AM
No he is making more of a go fast type car and is putting race type suspension and brakes under his. I will look through my junk and see if I have one of those air boxes left from the 61 I am parting out. I'll look tonight and see...:confused:

04-20-2010, 07:35 PM
Can you convert the 60-63 door style to a 64/65 pull handle type? I've never looked that close, but sure is nice being able to yank a handle and open the vent.

There is just this slight twinkle in the horizon now.

Looking good there Steve. By the time I make it over there I'll not have anything to help you with... but at the rate my own stuff is going, I'm not sure where my tunnel ends. I see no light at the end of mine yet. And I suspect some of that twinkle you see is being made by your welder. :)

04-20-2010, 09:25 PM
Can you convert the 60-63 door style to a 64/65 pull handle type? I've never looked that close, but sure is nice being able to yank a handle and open the vent.

You mean there's some handle up on the dash in the 64-65? My 62 has a handle on the door you twist to unlatch. Guess I never noticed that detail.

Sorry to highjack the thread...:D

04-20-2010, 10:35 PM
I have a door on the right, like you, but on the drivers side we can pull the handle you see in this pic (sorry too Steve for the hijack... it's only temporary).

04-20-2010, 11:45 PM
Nice feature! I'll have to check it out at the next show and take some measurements.

And now back to our regularly scheduled reconstruction!

04-21-2010, 08:21 AM
No worries; Let me know how that vent works out. if it does I will use it in the delivery.
I think you are right about the twinkle, I did have some tough spots to weld that used the close your eyes tighter and you won't be blind method??

04-26-2010, 08:31 AM
Started on the quarter repairs this weekend. Spent HOURS fitting the lower panel. I think it came out well. Cut out the upper part but ran out of steam. I want to wait to weld the hell out of it till I fit the upper piece, that way I can be sure it all lines up the way it should.
Hopefully by the end of May I can get the metal spraying done!
Also took a pic of the upper piece I cut out. UGLY stuff!!!:NERVOUS:

07-08-2010, 04:42 PM
OK. I finally have some progress to show. Things got way ugly before they started to look better.
Pulled the whole quarter panel off to fit the upper piece in the right way that took about a week. Did some rust prevention on the inner panel while it was accessible, and started putting it back together. Still needs a bunch of work but my Buddie is helping me out a bit. That is him in the pic.
So I got the rest of the floor pans in some of which we had to make, and I hope to start putting the panels back in the side soon. I figure I hadn't put anything up for a while so the bored people can get interested again and those who weren't can see the painfully slow progress of some of this type of work. As usual any input is always welcome. Enjoy Steve.:o

08-11-2010, 08:39 AM
Well I am just about done with the rust repair. Couple more small things and I will be ready for the metal spray on the floors and so forth.
Here are some updated pics, and when I spray the metal down I will get some pics of that as well.[yay]

09-07-2010, 08:24 AM
OK here are some pics of the metal spraying. Hope they show OK. Some are before and some are afters. I will try to put them in the right order.

09-07-2010, 08:27 AM
And some more.[thumb]

09-07-2010, 08:30 AM
I will get some more up tomorrow. The areas shown are rough finished, but after a little sanding they shape up beautifully. I am very happy with the results and hopefully the rust will never come back.
Enjoy. Steve:)

09-08-2010, 07:50 AM
OK, I took some this morning of the areas I have started to finish the metal out on. Remember I replaced the entire roof gutter, down supports and the top of the rear quarter with new metal. Also test fitting the new side panels. I think it is starting to look like a car again.:rocker:

09-14-2010, 08:06 AM
The car is coming together nicely. I put the new side panels on and after some trimming and fitting they fit great. Should have the car in primer in the next week or so. Then I get to start the final body work. (Putty is your buddy) I will finally put all the pieces back on the car and see what it looks like with the doors, fenders, and hood on again.[yay] The light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter!!!

BillP 98201
09-14-2010, 11:23 AM
Looking good Steve ........ starting to drool some, luv those sedan deliveries!!!!:rocker:

09-14-2010, 09:36 PM
Go into the light... go into the light. But wear your sunglasses. :cool:

And here you had us all convinced you were an amateur. Excellent work. Can't wait to see it.

I wonder if I could make some big magnetic sheet sedan delivery panels so I could have a faux sedan delivery?

09-14-2010, 09:55 PM
Slick Sand is your friend if you have a gun to spray it. It will save you a lot of time with the body work. It's wonderful for getting long flat panels truly straight.


The progress looks great.

09-15-2010, 08:10 AM
Cool, thanks for the tip. I am going to put the car in powder coat primer next. We (my painter friend and I) have done some testing with this epoxy primer and it looks to be a good solution to etching primer and so forth. I need to start with the bondo portion next. Any suggestions on that stuff? After I get it real straight and smooth I will shoot that slick sand for the blocking, and then hopefully off to paint. I have my fingers crossed for around Christmas time.
Then comes the fun part of spending too much money and putting her back together. Thanks for the comments and tips helps with the motivation and final outcome of the car.:BEER:

09-15-2010, 09:38 AM
I really like the Rage Gold product. I tried the cheaper stuff and won't go back. The rage gold goes on smooth with no air bubbles and is easy to sand.


Do yourself a favor and buy good sandpaper too. Get the 3M professional stuff. It's the stuff behind the counter at Wesco so you have to ask for it. It's gold in color so you will know it from the cheap stuff. It's cuts better and lasts longer than the cheap stuff.

After filler, go to Slick Sand and sand that with 220-320. Then put down a couple coats of PPG K38 and wet sand to 400. Then another coat or two of K38 and wet sand to 600. You can seal the whole thing after that with PPG DPLF reduced as a sealer and then paint.

For sanding blocks, get this kit:

You need a very long stiff block too. The red one from this photo is what I have. Mine is 3' long and is great for getting long panels perfectly straight.


09-15-2010, 11:18 AM
Awesome, Looks like I am on the right track. I was looking at the RAGE gold this morning, and I already have the durablock set. I think I can borrow the log block from my painter buddy. I really appreciate the tips on the products, I know many people have tried so I like learning from their mistakes. God knows I make enough of my own.[thumb]
Thanks again Steve H.

10-14-2010, 02:05 PM
Here are the latest and greatest. Got the car into powder coat primer today. Sure looks good all one color again. (dent's and all) So I've been told to scuff the surface with 80 grit and proceed with body work from here. This is all experimental but I have been told it will be fine. I will keep you all posted and we will see how it goes.:banana:

10-15-2010, 07:25 PM
You must be feeling very good at the moment.

It's been a while since I went that far into something and I recall feeling pretty bleak after about 15 months... and seeing months to go. I even painted "HELP ME" at some point on the newspaper I had taped to the windshield. Not a good feeling. Just keep plugging along though and don't let it stall.


10-19-2010, 08:34 AM
I am still very excited about the car. It looks better and better each time I work on it. Now I can slow down a bit since I don't have to worry about rust this winter. Here are some pics after this weekend. Got the sheet metal back on. Still have to do some aligning but looks good as a "whole" car again.

11-08-2010, 05:08 PM
New progress finally... I got the rear axle done. Powder coated and all. Also got the sound mat in the roof and side panels. Wow what a difference, no more metal sound just a thud when you hit it... I won't bore you with the bondo work but I'll put up a pic when it is done and hopefully ready for paint...

BillP 98201
11-09-2010, 10:20 AM
Nice job! Glad to see the progress [thumb]

Jeff W
11-09-2010, 05:53 PM
I'd like to see some close up's of your fuel filler modification.

11-10-2010, 11:19 AM
I will get some for you. It was a kit I got from Hagan auto. Included the filler neck gas cap hinge door. Pretty cool kit. Should line up with the stock filler hose as well. But no more pissing down the fender with gas.

03-02-2011, 09:20 AM
OK for those of you who thought I might be slacking, here are some boaring body work pics.. I have about 150 hour in it so far. (yes Larry too).
I checked and I am pretty sure there are no reflections in these..
Did I mention how much I enjoy body work???:doh:

03-02-2011, 10:34 AM
Looking almost like time to skin the whole thing in a layer of something and do the long-board dance over it. All those layers of bondo will show no matter what if you just prime it.

The roof.. it is amazing to see knowing what it once looked like. You should post a before and after of that so we can flip back and forth -- Ouch! Ahhh... Ouch! Ahhh...

03-02-2011, 12:13 PM
Couldn't find a real good one of the roof before. But this will give an idea of how much damage (work) was done to it before the start to make it pretty part came..:BEER:

03-02-2011, 08:46 PM
Two medium coats of PPG DPLF epoxy primer will do a good job of covering all the filler. Don't worry about that. You should consider the spray-on polyester filler (Slick Sand) if you have a gun that can handle it. It looks good so far. Keep it up. It's worth it when you see the results.


03-02-2011, 09:02 PM
Looking good. Not trying to sound like a professional because I sure don't qualify. But make sure you use lots of guide coat and keep going till it's perfect. Just looking at the pictures makes my elbows hurt. Can't wait to see it. Larry

03-03-2011, 09:20 AM
Thanks guys. Slick sand is already on the shelf, and I have a 30" long board just waiting its turn. It looks like a lot of filler in the pics, but I don't think I have any spot thicker than a dime. It seems like I put a bunch on and most of it ends up on the floor. I also bought a tin of guide coat that goes on kind of like when you wax a car. Has a little pad with it and you rub it on the car. Seems to work well.
I think I am going to test fit the engine and trans one last time before I get going with the primer coats. Just want to make sure all is good.
Thanks again for the tips and tricks, I am hoping to get it in paint this spring/summer.[yay]

03-07-2011, 09:19 AM
So I did the final fit and finish for the engine and AOD. Looks like a little trimming is in order for the shock tower braces?? Maybe an aftermarket kit?? So it all fits well underneath and cross member came out good. Now to pull it all back out and sand some more...
Did I mention about how I love body work??:doh:

03-07-2011, 10:10 AM
I still think the best designed and thought-out tower support I have seen (and one I plan to duplicate exactly on the Ranchero - 'cause I HATE those shock-tower braces - is the one from Powell's car at the Regional Kenny and I attended in Oregon. Very nicely engineered and accommodates exactly what you are doing too. And doesn't require much bodywork, though I know you love doing that.

03-07-2011, 10:17 AM
You'll be wanting to swap out that rear sump oil pan if you plan on steering the car in the future. That pan is right in the way of the centerlink.

falcon cobra
03-07-2011, 10:56 AM
steve your motor looks really low, this is mine when I had the FI on it with stock falcon V8 motor mounts, I only had to make one crappy cut on the brace...jh

03-07-2011, 10:56 AM
...if you plan on steering the car in the future.

Details, details... :shift:

03-07-2011, 12:44 PM
Wow Thanks guys I have not even checked that yet. Guess I better do that while the motor and trany are in..

03-07-2011, 12:54 PM
Here are some pics of the cross member I built. I set it up on blocks and jumped on it and it held so I should be good...[thumb]
Fresh out of powder coat..

03-07-2011, 01:22 PM
Wow Thanks guys I have not even checked that yet. Guess I better do that while the motor and trany are in..

Yeah- it's a given that the rear-sump pan won't work on rear-steer systems, so just use the front-sump system, which is a dime a dozen setup.

I didn't see that your setup seemed lower in the engine compartment (comparing all three examples posted today), but regardless, you have enough skills now to fab something better than what ford did in 1960. That's for sure. Better to do it now than later. While you're at it, you know. Plus make it removable. Lots of things are out there to deal with this; Patrick just posted what he's going to use (the removable style like you see on Mustangs) and Falcon Cobra (John) uses another system which I think too is sold for Mustangs, but easily adapts to Falcon. I personally like the custom look of the one Powell did, but will require a tubing bender to do right. That was heavy wall tubing he used and you can't just bend that in your vice and get it to look that good.

03-07-2011, 01:52 PM
Here are some pics of the cross member I built. I set it up on blocks and jumped on it and it held so I should be good...[thumb]
Fresh out of powder coat..

Have you tried putting it up in there after it was all welded and pretty? It looks purty.

03-07-2011, 04:04 PM
I put it back in after all the welding was done. I hope the powder doesn't make it too tight. Nothing a hammer won't fix...
As far as the oil pan, I take it I have to change the oil pump too. Crap let the nickle and diming begin..:confused:
OK clue me in. What am I looking for, my salvage yard is very difficult to deal with and not so good at getting stuff. I might have to make a trip over to visit Roger and his project and go to a pick a part over there?? What years do I need to find, or will any front sump pan work?? DO I need a pump or just a different pick-up tube? Maybe I can steal it off the engine I sold?

03-07-2011, 04:47 PM
Pretty much all front-sump small blocks use the same pan and pick-up tube. You can even buy them new from Summit or whoever -- like this one:


You'll see on the page the correct pick-up tube for it. You can use the same pump - that is the same.

If you still have that small-block in your garage -- I think it had the correct pan too.

03-07-2011, 05:38 PM
Thanks Roger; Now all I have to decide is if I should steal the one off the motor I sold to Ed, or buy a new one??? Anyone have a used one sitting around?:D

03-07-2011, 06:33 PM
I put it back in after all the welding was done. I hope the powder doesn't make it too tight. Nothing a hammer won't fix...
As far as the oil pan, I take it I have to change the oil pump too. Crap let the nickle and diming begin..:confused:
OK clue me in. What am I looking for, my salvage yard is very difficult to deal with and not so good at getting stuff. I might have to make a trip over to visit Roger and his project and go to a pick a part over there?? What years do I need to find, or will any front sump pan work?? DO I need a pump or just a different pick-up tube? Maybe I can steal it off the engine I sold?

You just need an early front sump pan and pickup. The pump is the same.

03-08-2011, 01:14 PM
I looked at the pics again and they are a little deceiving. The motor is real close to the same height as the ones I've seen posted. The upper intake is sitting crooked because it hit the tower brace. That is why it looked low.
I like the brace idea you posted Roger. I have access to a tubing bender so I think I will go that route. Maybe not the mote Carlo bar but definitely the shock tower brace. Thanks for the input guys it is saving me more head aches than I need right now.

03-08-2011, 11:19 PM
I was cursing that shock tower brace just tonight. Those are going to be gone real soon now.

Say - how'd that hood reskinning go?

03-09-2011, 09:05 AM
Put it on hold for a bit. Got the skin clean and ready now I have to take the other hood apart. Maybe this weekend. I will let you know and post some pics...

03-21-2011, 08:36 AM
Got the car undercoated this weekend. Went well and looks great. Used a comercial coating with an aplicater gun. Very messy but nice. Roger saw the finished product so he can tell you what he thinks.

03-21-2011, 09:14 AM
That looks really good. Is that 3M Body Shutz?

03-21-2011, 09:42 AM
That was actually called "Fast Dry" and I got it from Baxters. Very messy to put on but it looks great and dries hard but rubbery.

03-21-2011, 09:49 AM
Ah - you got more of it Steve? Looks great!.

This was a Fast Dry Undercoating Steve got from Baxter's Auto Parts. Red/Black gallon can. It wasn't rocker schutz - though the texture was very similar. I liked how it has a hard, yet flexible surface. Supposedly paintable too.

I looked for a picture of it in the gallon size, but none found. Here's a link to Amazon.com of the same stuff in a smaller size.


03-21-2011, 01:35 PM
That is the stuff Roger. Baxters here in PA carries it in gallon size. I bet you could get it from the Baxters in Tacoma?
I don't have any left but I can always get more. I think it ran around $45 for the gallon over here..
Now to get the car back on it's own 4 wheels!!!:banana:

04-04-2011, 08:08 AM
I am so sick of body work!!!! I gave up and put the old girl back on the ground. I figured it would be better to do this to line up the fenders and doors better. It has no motor in it so the front is up a bit but sure put a smile on my face when I sat it back down the last time.
Now to finish up the body work and get it off to paint. Then we will have the reassembly party. That light at the end of this tunnel is getting brighter!!![yay]:BEER:

04-04-2011, 08:10 AM
On the ground no jack stands!!!

04-04-2011, 10:07 AM
Looking GREAT, Steve! What a milestone!

04-04-2011, 01:36 PM
Ah, I'll bet you now that you're going to be working on it and want to push it over and you'll push and it won't go anywhere - and then you'll wish it were still on rollers. :p

Looks like a car again though, and you know it is solid on the ground -- not swiss-cheese with tires.

I wish I had the rack you had yours on right now. Mine is like a teeter-totter. The back stands are just even with the front leaf support and with no engine I can with one finger lift the front of the car off the front stands. I catch myself leaning on the back end all the time and watching the car raise in the front. Got to do something about that. :NERVOUS:

04-04-2011, 03:00 PM
Mine (cart) is free if you want to use it. Should bolt right up. I think I am coming over on the 16th, I could bring it but you will probably be done by then.
I think this is the 1/2 way mile stone?? Maybe farther..

08-18-2011, 08:28 AM
Here is a quick update for those of you who though I gave up.
Body work, body work, and body work. Did I mention body work.:doh:
Actually On Rogers last trip over he was helping me line up the panel and after 2 hours of frustration we measured some things out and found the front of the car to be pushed over about an inch or so. So last night I dropped her off at my friends shop and he is going to pull her straight for me. Then it will be MORE body work... But they gave me some good tips and should have it all done body wise by the end of this month I hope....:o
I will post a couple of pics when I pick her up from the frame shop.

08-18-2011, 09:19 PM
Holy smokes! Well it's all for the better from this point! Right on.

09-26-2011, 04:52 PM
She's back from the frame shop and the panels fit perfect. YEAH!!!! Now to finish sanding it and off to paint. Maybe. Body work SUCKS...:doh: Maybe I will catch up with Roger someday...:rocker:

09-26-2011, 11:31 PM
Keep up the good work, keep plugging away and you'll get there. At least that's what I keep telling myself :rolleyes:

BillP 98201
09-27-2011, 07:46 AM
Maybe you should sneak it into Rogers garage after he moves the Flarechero to the carport :rocker:

09-27-2011, 08:09 AM
I was going to try that (Rogers Garage) or kidnap him for a month or so??

09-27-2011, 11:15 PM
You'll have to be fast. The Flaremobile will be moving out on Friday and the wagon is coming home that evening.

Glad to hear the panels fit now. The didn't break any welds to do it?

With every day this "thing" going on in my right elbow is making doing anything tough - especially body work. I'm doing minimal amounts for now.

09-28-2011, 08:12 AM
The guys at the body shop did a wonderful job. No weld broke, not even the filler I had in some of those areas came loose. He pulled it and let it sit for a day, checked it and then finished the pull. He said it was over right at about 1 inch. The relaxed the it and let is sit over the weekend and checked it on Monday and it all stayed good. The best part of all is he did not charge me any $$$$. I love it when people want to barter powder for what I need.
Whats up with the elbow??

09-28-2011, 12:24 PM
Man, you can't beat almost free. Barter when you can. Glad to hear it can now move forward again.

I don't know what's up w/my elbow. But whoever is shoving the knife into it, I wish they'd stop. I suspect arthritis that I aggravated pounding all the floors into submission, since that's when it went ballistic. For a few years, since I started doing a particular job at work, which requires ungodly amounts of repetitive mouse and text editing, it has slowly caused issue in the right arm. I changed a lot of my setup at work to help, but may have been too little, too late. This is specific to the elbow though, so I should go get it checked out. Have been waiting until this project at work was done - as well as the flare-n-stein. Both are done, for all intents and purposes, so maybe I'll go see what's up when I get back from this next trade show.

10-10-2011, 11:36 AM
Sanding sanding, and more sanding. This is my new best friend. Since the trip to the body shop(when I was told my friend who said they new body work really did not) I have removed all the bad work and have been re-doing it the correct way. The roof is done, and I have moved on to the sides. I will post some pics tomorow as I did not have the camera at home.
This is a very long and tedious process one I can't wait to get past. maybe this spring I will have the assembly party I have been wanting to do so bad.
Body Work is 2 four letter words???:NERVOUS::doh:

10-10-2011, 12:00 PM
Only two four letter words?? I still have to beg for forgiveness from GOD for all the slips I made doing body work. Never thought I would get finished. It is indeed a horrible task. Then came painting and then the real tedious job of color buff and sanding. But, take your time, it will pay off. Badbird AKA Larry

10-10-2011, 02:32 PM
Thanks Larry, your car is beautiful nice work. I have one plus for me. All I need to do is get it very close on the body work, and then it goes to my friends shop that paints cars fro a living. He has done some very high quality custom stuff. He need powder coating done for his 33 so we are trading.[thumb] Now if I can just get it close enough for him.

10-12-2011, 10:38 PM
How is it that the old bodywork was bad? Was it what you were using? I'm not sure what I'll be able to do now for bodywork with the flarechero outside, but I'll figure something out. Looking for a ghetto garage now.

10-13-2011, 08:06 AM
I guess "bad" is not the right word. I suppose not correct would be better. When my helper explained it to me the way they did it was to find the troubled areas and fix them. Apparently I should have just skim coat the whole roof, and block it down with the biggest and baddest sanding board I could buy. The board is actually a marine flaring board. It is 40" long and 6" wide. Paper is very expensive, but it is working out well. I have the roof done again and I must say it looks and feels a lot better. I am working on the side panels now. They also told me to use the Rage Extreme filler. Also expensive but I guess you get what you pay for. I need to get a few pics up and boar you guys with my snail pace work. Anyway my new goal is to get it to the paint shop by January??:o

10-14-2011, 08:46 AM
Here are the boring pics I promised. Body work body work body work.... Oh yeah did I mention body work???:doh:

10-14-2011, 09:26 PM

Just kidding. Looks like loads of fun. Not. Looking forward to see if all primed.

Saw your Ratchero on CL a couple days ago. He's looking for parts.

I'm currently looking for a portable carport to put in front of the garage to move the Flarechero over there and do some of the two-four-letter-word work myself. Thanks for the motivation! :doh:

10-17-2011, 08:06 AM
Loads of fun. I did finish the roof and both side panels. They are ready for primer and blocking. I think the rest should go fairly quick. The BIG flat stuff is very close.
I think I see that light in the distance again....:)

10-17-2011, 06:26 PM
I think I see that light in the distance again....:)

Is that light in the east or the west? I hope it is rising... and not setting.


10-18-2011, 08:14 AM
I am hoping it is rising. Getting my enthusiasm to work on the car again. Actually sanded on the hood last night after work?? Got 2 small low spots to fix and then it is the sides of the car. I think those will go quick, not so big and flat.:rocker:

BillP 98201
10-18-2011, 08:29 AM
Keep up the good work!

02-13-2012, 09:25 AM
Got tired of waiting for my body guy to get to work and started on some of the engine and engine bay stuff. Cleaned, sanded, painted, re-sanded and repainted the engine bay. Looks good enough for me. The I detailed out the engine and got it all painted. Not sure if I should install it or not?? Might be a paint to paint the car if I go that far??
Next up fuel tank and fuel system.:rocker:

BillP 98201
02-13-2012, 10:25 AM
Nice!!!!!!! Keep going, keep going, keep going :BEER:

02-13-2012, 10:57 AM
I'd make it a driver even before paint. There is nothing worse than fretting over scratching something with wrenches flying. Just be sure you mask off an area when you paint to make sure it stays clean of overspray. Very doable. And... you'll be a lot less stressed because you are still in control of progress - even if you aren't in control of all of it.

02-13-2012, 11:29 AM
Lookin GOOD, Steve. I 'specially like the color coordinated spark plugs.

02-13-2012, 11:37 AM
OK Gene, maybe they are onto something... 'cause I was going to mention that EXACT thing, but forgot to...

[insert twilight zone theme here]

02-13-2012, 12:42 PM
I figured it was easier to color coordinate them now, rather than when I put the new ones in.
Maybe I should have help over here and I will paint the inside of the car (dash on so forth) then put it together for the summer and work on the paint later???
Got any of that black left Roger???

02-13-2012, 01:18 PM
#7777 Satin Black from Home Depot. We could put on 50 coats of that for $20. Add some Kafka pin strips, which I'm going to sic my soon to be idle hands on learning real soon now (and maybe doing on the side until I get famous at it and have open my own shop) and you'll have one sweet delivery.

If you know what color you want the interior to be, and you're happy with the current prep-work - then let's just DO IT!

02-13-2012, 01:38 PM
I am leaning towards galaxy gray for the inside and the upper part of the delivery. Probably something in the cobalt blue range for the lower half of the car...
If I jam it and do the inside I could put it back together and drive it this summer??? HMMMM?:shift:

02-13-2012, 01:59 PM
I am leaning towards galaxy gray for the inside and the upper part of the delivery. Probably something in the cobalt blue range for the lower half of the car...
If I jam it and do the inside I could put it back together and drive it this summer??? HMMMM?:shift:

Yeah.... as long as you don't sell it this summer too! :WHATTHE: I think we are all seeing a trend with cars you get on the road...

02-13-2012, 02:21 PM
The ultimate goal is to finish the delivery. I like having one around to drive. As much work that has gone into the delivery I think it will be my burial plot. Plus this has been one of those dream car type things for a long time. Ever since I saw one in the nostalgia drags up in Canada a few years ago it has been my goal to have one.
I kept my 72 Bronco for 15 years, so the delivery should be around that long I hope...

02-13-2012, 02:28 PM
OK, I feel better now. FWIW, I kept my '56 panel for 28 years. I had people checking their pulses when I sold that - they just couldn't believe I would ever part with it. But it was time. You know it when you know it.

02-13-2012, 04:25 PM
I have a guy that want to trade me a 52 Ch*y panel TRUCK for my 62 Ranchero??
I still like me delivery the best.... Laurie likes the panel truck more than the chero??? Might be time to sell or trade the wife...[thumb]

02-13-2012, 04:45 PM
I think you should make the trade and then really play havoc with the Chevy guys by installing a Ford motor into it! Now that would be my kind of Chevy.

Have you seen the panel? If it's for Lori, you don't have to take ownership and we won't hold it against you. But keep in mind... you have a sedan delivery and you know how much flat metal is on that. Multiply that time 5 for a panel truck. Why do you think I hate body work?


02-13-2012, 05:38 PM
I certainly agree with all of that. I was WAY too long without mine while it was in someone else's shop. And I've certainly proven the overspray can be kept under control while I did my detail work under the hood.


Years ago, when I pulled a 302 from my '69 'Chero, the motor and C-4 was sold and ended up in a Chevy LUV. I thought that was poetic.

02-13-2012, 05:44 PM
I will start gathering the parts and paint needed for inside and go for it. I am tired of selling and trading, I want one keeper.
I will let everyone know when the assembly party will be. I need to order a wiring harness and shifter but other than that it is a lot of nickle and dime stuff. (or is it a hundred here and a hundred there) I am excited to get it on the road now!!!!:banana:

Oh yeah and spark plugs...

02-13-2012, 09:43 PM
I got bins and bins of wire. You want me to splice a bunch of it together for you? [thumb]

02-14-2012, 09:04 AM
I wish it were that easy. I need to get the harness to splice the fuel injection in. Probably the Ron Francis kit.
I think I will stab the engine and trans this weekend??

02-27-2012, 09:20 AM
Well I had a half day Sunday to work on my junk so this is what I did: Put the engine in (maybe last time), installed the AOD, and test fit the radiator. Man does that look good after being empty for 2.5 years...
Question, what did you guys running V-8's use for headers? The stock mustang ones will not fit without cutting into the side skirts. Everything else fit like I tried it a few time before...

02-27-2012, 11:46 AM
Is that all you got done? Man you are slow.


So, you have the wiring harness for that motor too? Did I mention I also hate wiring? (Shhhh, Gene). ;)

02-27-2012, 11:52 AM
OH - and I hate to say it - you'll probably have to pull the motor to install headers...

I will say that I was impressed by the fit of the headers Gene got for his Ranchero. Dougs Headers. I have no doubt that they make them for an automatic too.

02-27-2012, 12:22 PM
I'll confirm that you'll have to pull the engine to get the hraders in. We put them in the bay and then lowered the engine in and still had to wiggle and push and shove everything around to get it all to slide into place. Then it takes a double jointed (in the fingers) person to get them buttoned up to the engine. Fortunately, I had a sucker, (oops, I mean GREAT helper) to do the double-jointed part. However, the end result is that mine are a great fit, even with the Z-bar (which took even more double-jointedness), that I had heard was ALWAYS a problem with the fit. I recommend the Doug's TRI-Y units, though they probably aren't as good as equal length units for MAX hp.

02-27-2012, 01:28 PM
Well that sucks... I have the trany bolted up and everything. Does the there need to be just enough room for them to get in, or will the motor need to come all the way out??? I hate to undo the trans again.:(

Are you kidding me with that price!!!! $450 for uncoated?? and $700 for coated. Maybe stock manifolds are in my future. I could build another car with that kind of money....

falcon cobra
02-27-2012, 02:51 PM
Steve ,I got hedman hedders from summit they fit and I did not remove the engine and have a c-4 they were 299.00 they have a silver coating of some kind, and still look new....jh:BEER:

falcon cobra
02-27-2012, 02:59 PM
Oh how about a pict...

02-27-2012, 03:49 PM
John's right. Mine are long tube, that's what made them difficult. I have no experience with shorty's, so John's the man there.

From the top, John's pic could also be mine (except for the NEATO roller rockers).

02-27-2012, 04:55 PM
I agree - shorty's may be the way to go. Also, if you get long-tube, you might get away with leaving one side partly bolted down and lifting the other side. We did that on Gene's when we found we couldn't insert the motor past them both headers at the same time.

02-27-2012, 05:57 PM
Go to love the internet. Thanks for all the input, and I think a set of shorty's are in my future. I can get them bare for less and coat them myself. Thanks everyone! I am happy again.:D

02-28-2012, 12:45 PM
Steve, CJPONYPARTS has tri-y headers that look to be made for you. They're listed as coming from Scott Drake, but don't know who makes them. They're $152 right now with free shipping. Here's the link.....


02-28-2012, 02:29 PM
Thanks Gene I will be looking at those real hard today.
John those ones you posted about, do you have a part number by chance?? I would like to look into those real hard as well. If they both fit then I just need to decide long or short???
Thanks again guys...

02-28-2012, 03:03 PM
Keep in mind... this 20% off deal at CJ ends the 29th...

falcon cobra
02-28-2012, 03:06 PM
The summit # is hed-88408, the other one's are for a mustang I would be sure they fit a falcon first, jh

02-28-2012, 05:58 PM
That is tonight's research. I only have about 2.5 inches clearance between the engine and the inner fenders!!! Hopefully I can find the specs I need on both sets. I am leaning towards the shorty's but we will see..:o

02-29-2012, 08:44 AM
John if you get a chance could you measure the distance your header stick out away from the engine? PLEEEASe. Those ones from Scott Drake are too wide to fit in my application. They showed 3.5" from flange to the edge of the pipes. I don't have that much room. I did measure a set of stock manifolds and they will clear but i would rather run a header. Thanks Steve...

02-29-2012, 10:36 AM
Steve - I did do some looking into this last night myself and the Mustang headers and the Falcon headers (in the brand that have both - Dougs) do have differing part numbers. So I would go with known "fits a Falcon" models. I saw long tube headers on Summit too, but the shortys would be far easier to fit. HP differences notwithstanding, I think unless you are building a race motor - who cares.

02-29-2012, 11:10 AM
My thoughts exactly. I will run the stock manifolds if I have to. I am not worried about horsepower. A good 302 will push the delivery just fine. I am building a cruiser not a race car. Reliability and drive ability are what matter for me... Hopefully some decent gas mileage too. Thanks for the input...:BEER:

falcon cobra
02-29-2012, 11:48 AM
Steve they are about 2.25- 2.50" from the spring towers.... I had to dent the drivers side a little by the steering box, but my box is not a falcon so it's a little larger....jh

02-29-2012, 11:55 AM
I agree with all of the above, as mine were an easy (?) bolt-in, I have to admit I was going for the bling as much as anything. I too, want just a cruiser motor. I'll never be racing it (though I suspect my right foot may find itself on the floor once in a while).

02-29-2012, 04:45 PM
Thanks for all the helpful knowledge. I think a set of shorty's are in the works. Time for the fuel tank and brake lines to go in...[thumb]

Thanks for the measurement John.

04-19-2012, 07:43 AM
Ok everyone here is the new plan. After Roger came over with the "Flarechero" and we did some work on Bill's Mustang, I have decided to go with the rat rod look for now. My painter flaked out on me after I had done a bunch of work for him. I am tired of waiting and I need this car on the road this summer.
So after much discussion and contemplation, I will paint the inside color and go semi-flat (7777) on the outside. Cars have been sold and parts are on order so an assembly party will be in the works soon.
Lauries catering service will be on hand for food and drink. I hope to make this all happen in the next few weeks. I will keep you all posted. Thanks Steve...:sawzall:

04-19-2012, 09:05 AM
Sounds like a good plan, Steve. I hope the party is planned for when I can make it!

04-19-2012, 11:30 AM
I am going to start the painting this weekend, and if I find the right silver for the inside maybe do that on Sunday. Then it is just a matter of waiting for the big brown truck to build up the supply.
I will give plenty of notice, the light is getting brighter!!!:banana:

04-19-2012, 03:41 PM
Just remember May 19/20 is swap weekend, so you may want to schedule just after that. It will be hard to do much leading up to that. The next weekend is a 3-day holiday, so many may be gone. Maybe June 2013? [thumb]

04-19-2012, 04:21 PM
I'm thinking late May early June but NOT 2013...

04-20-2012, 11:24 AM
Oh... that must have been a typo....


04-20-2012, 12:34 PM
If he's anything like me, it could have been 2014.

05-04-2012, 10:33 AM
The big brown truck has been burning a path in my driveway. I have my paint for the car now, as well as the shaved door handle kit, Lokar shifter kit, billet pulley kit, new gas tank and sender, heater rebuild kit, plugs and wires, and my Ron Francis wiring kit just showed up.
Now I am just waiting on the headers, and one wire alternator to show. I think I still need a bunch of little do-dads still so I will make a list this weekend get them ordered and schedule a party.
I need to paint the inside first and then a bunch of work can be done, maybe paint the outside as well. I am going the Roger route for now since I still have body work and some small stuff left on the outside to do.
I will put up some potential date for the assembly party and see who would like to help.
Let the fun begin!!!!!:banana:

05-04-2012, 12:04 PM
Oh... I remember those days... just like they were last year...

05-07-2012, 08:25 AM
Well I finally got the pulleys all lined up. Just need to pick up a small 1/2" spacer for the fan.
No to do the trany cooler lines and radiator hoses. Need some nice days so I can paint the inside and start on the wiring.

05-07-2012, 12:47 PM
Boy... look at all that fancy-schmancy stuff. Very purty. I especially like the PVC shock-tower braces. [thumb]

05-07-2012, 01:55 PM
Oh, uh, yeah, I am sorta kinda toying with an idea for some custom billet shiny purty bling bling stuff.
I am actually trying to duplicate that $600 kit you can buy online. I should only have about $200 into it including the heim joints. I post that up after it is done.:rocker:

05-09-2012, 09:53 AM
$400 to apply to something else. Gotta love it. It really is looking nice. I think you'll have it on the road in no time. Windows? Who needs windows? Windshield yes. Even Jeff took his wagon out with stuff missing. WIP. The cousin of WIAI.

05-10-2012, 08:12 AM
A little here and a little there. She is slowly taking shape. Need to try and paint the inside this weekend.
Just need a little fuel and a little spark and we can see if it will run after 2 years??
That infamous light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter everyday!

falcon cobra
05-10-2012, 11:57 AM
How close is the fan to the rad. I have seen those flex fan blades go forward when they spin fast, it happen to me once...and then the water poors out....jh

05-10-2012, 12:38 PM
It looks way close in the pics, but I am 3/4 inch away at the bottom and about 1.25" at the top of the radiator.
The fan has steel arms all the way out on the blades so the only part that moves is the curved part of the fan. I can't even pull the blades closer to the radiator by yanking on them. Should be fine (I hope)...

BillP 98201
05-15-2012, 07:13 AM
Looks great Steve! I dont even see any saw zall marks! [thumb]

05-15-2012, 09:10 AM
Oh they're there... I've seem 'em.


05-22-2012, 08:21 AM
So I think the engine bay is pretty much buttoned up. This is what I ended up with. The headers are close but not touching anything. Had to dimple the driver side by the steering box but not very much. Passenger side is good. Fan clearance is good so it is time to paint the dash and jams so I can wire it up. Was going to paint this weekend but mother nature decided to make it wet and damp so I will try for this long weekend.
If all goes well she should be ready for the first start-up attempt June 2nd. I was hoping for this weekend but the wiai bit me a bit.

Guess I should put some paint back on the steering box and clean the header back up. Funny what you see when you blow up the pictures!!!

05-22-2012, 10:28 AM
Wow - those headers are close. I was really impressed by the headers Gene got. Once we dealt with some bracket issues and such, it was really clear of everything.

Looks very nice though. You are making very good progress. Amazing how a little excitement can motivate! Keep it up! I'll make it over there just in time to add the rear-view mirror so you can back it out!

05-31-2012, 08:15 AM
Dash is painted!!![yay] Now on to the wiring.:o Hopefully will be ready to light it up in the next week or so..:BEER:

05-31-2012, 11:45 AM
Looking GOOD Steve. Keep at it!

05-31-2012, 03:33 PM
Fun begins!

Why'd you stop at the dash? Man, I'd have let the paint fly...

05-31-2012, 03:35 PM
Should at least get the inside of the doors, the jambs, and the tailgate.

Looks good so far.

05-31-2012, 03:52 PM
I thought about it, but just wanted to get enough done to start the wiring. But now I wish I would have done more. It came out real good for a beginer. I think I will use that color for my upper body color? I just want to here it go VVrrrooommmm!!!!!:3g:

06-04-2012, 07:51 AM
Spent the weekend finishing the transmission lines, and working on the wiring. What a gob of wires!! The car harness is done for the most part, still need to run wires for the door poppers and power rear window. Worked on the fuel injection harness Sunday. All the engine connections are made, now I need to hook them up to the control panel and computer. Pretty simple actually just time consuming.
Next weekend is the fuel tank and lines and maybe vvrrrooommm!!! By the way does anyone have an extra set of fuel tank strap "J" bolts laying around? I seem to have misplaced (lost) mine.:o

06-04-2012, 11:09 AM
I'll be listening closely next week-end but I may be in E. Wash., so it may be hard to hear! The guys on this side should be OK, though.

06-04-2012, 11:16 AM
Where are you mounting the flux-capacitor again?

06-04-2012, 11:21 AM
By the way does anyone have an extra set of fuel tank strap "J" bolts laying around? I seem to have misplaced (lost) mine.

These are available, I think. But I didn't even end up with a spare set after doing the part-out. I may have one only. Something nagging me saying I do. Will have to check. They must have been left over yonder. Worse-case, get some long-ish 3/8" bolts, cut off the head, and make a pair. Just make sure there's a lot of thread.

06-04-2012, 12:22 PM
That was my thinking. The parts shops offer the straps with the bolts but not the bolts separately. I will probably get a chunk of all thread and make what I need if I can't find any.
Might be calling for some help soon. I need to wire up all the extras and do the dash but I will see how it goes.:confused:

06-05-2012, 02:23 PM
Freshly powder coated headlight buckets and marker light brackets. It is nice to be able to sneak in your own stuff when doing your job!?!

06-05-2012, 02:41 PM
Oh Boy - now you get to try and find the plastic threaded inserts too for the headlight adjusters.

You have a 62 or 63 grille?

06-05-2012, 03:57 PM
I have the 63 grill and I saved the plastic nutserts. I just need to get them in without breaking them.

06-05-2012, 10:06 PM
I've searched and cannot find the thread concerning these inserts that I chimed in on. I tried and tried to use the factory inserts that I saved and they are a bad design. I used square license plate inserts that snapped right in the square holes and they work really well. I think I might have an extra somewhere if you want a pic. I bought them at Ace Hardware. Badbird

06-06-2012, 08:01 AM
I will keep that in mind. My old ones came out clean so I think they are reusable. But if not I know where I can get the license plate things. Thanks for the tip...

06-06-2012, 11:04 AM
I tried to use the license plate things I could find in the local parts-houses and they were the wrong size. The holes were like 7/16" square and the inserts I found were all 3/8". I eventually filed a set from something I found, which was a pain. Would be nice to know what parts these were you found Larry, just so we can list it somewhere.

I tried to reuse the old one, but the little metal ring on them came off them and I could never get it to stay on again.

06-06-2012, 11:23 AM
Ohh crap now I am worried. I got the ring off but haven't tried to put it back on yet?? Guess I will find out tonight.
Sooo file some bigger ones down Huh... Yeah more custom work!!![yay]:sawzall:

06-06-2012, 02:16 PM
I would take a picture of the extra part I have but my camera download cable is in my motorhome. Which, brings up a story.

We were on our way back home from Tucson, close to a town called Mina Nevada when we were hit with a side wind estimated to be well over 80 MPH. Another motorhome right in front of me was knocked off the road and almost lost total control. I saw what happened and was able to slow down quite a bit, but the wind tore the roof loose from the coach. The one piece fiberglas roof came loose on the left side the full 35 feet of the motorhome. I stopped in the next town and spent the night duct taping it down which allowed us to make it back home. It is getting repaired now, so everything will be okay I hope.

Anyway, The nylon part that I have is .60 square and the insert part is .40 square. It snapped right in, the threads are the same size and it holds fantastic. It is now so easy to adjust the lights. I bought them as I mentioned before at ACE Hardware. I will be out running around today and I will go by and see if they have more. If so, I will buy them out and distribute to the members if they want some. Badbird

06-06-2012, 03:02 PM
Thanks Larry I will keep an eye out at my local Ace here as well. If you find them let me know a part # and I'll buy a bunch as well. This is one of those hard to find items everyone will need.[thumb]

06-06-2012, 10:54 PM
I stopped by Ace Hardware and bought 16 of the inserts if anyone needs some. I will either mail them to you or ?? If you need some before I can bring them to a meeting or something you can find them at your ACE. In the hardware area they have numerous boxes, this one is marked "LICENSE PLATE SCREWS AND NUTS" The box number is 59690 and the nuts are (#14) GM Nuts. Let me know if you need/want some. I can drop some by for you Gene if you want. Badbird

06-07-2012, 08:04 AM
Good work Larry, I stopped at my local parts house this morning and found another part that pops right in. It is from " License-Tite" and the part number on the box is 45954 comes in a 4 pack. I hope the rest of the issues are this easy to solve. Thanks for the help and direction Larry.
The picture shows the old one on the left and the replacement on the right. I tried for a picture of the box but it is so-so..

06-07-2012, 03:50 PM
I will have to now stop at Ace. Never looked there and they do have a pretty good hardware selection. Thanks! Mine are holding for now, but they are flaky.

06-11-2012, 08:01 AM
Fuel Injection wiring done!! Now to tidy up the engine compartment, finish the fuel system and light her up. I am about a week behind but the honey-do list got me.:(

falcon cobra
06-11-2012, 03:44 PM
Nice job on the wiring steve, did you replace all the wire to the computer plug ? how did you make the connections there? jh:BEER:

06-11-2012, 04:14 PM
O bought the Ron Francis kit with the Detail Zone's EFI kit. It came with all the correct ends on it and the computer was pre-wired to the control panel. All I had to do was plug into the sensors and terminate the ends at the control panel. Very easy to do and simple but good directions just a lot of time to get it done.
Still need to tidy up the engine bay but should be ready for fire this weekend!!!!:3g:

06-11-2012, 09:26 PM
I will bring some of the inserts to the Maltby show if anyone wants some. You can have some. That is why I bought 16 is to give them out to whoever needs/wants some. If you are not going to that show and need a few let me know and I will get them to you.

06-13-2012, 01:46 PM
Seat frame clean and powder coated. Seat backs need a little repair before they are ready.

06-13-2012, 05:34 PM
Ever see that show "Life After People" on The History Channel? It shows how quickly man-made things on earth would revert back to nature.

Well, besides the lunar rover left on the moon, I think your powder coated Falcon will be one of the last things to disappear!!! :D

06-14-2012, 07:49 AM
After all that work to get rid of the rust, I am taking no chances of it coming back. Plus is doesn't hurt to have the ability to do the work for myself cheaply.

06-18-2012, 08:20 AM
IT LIVES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:3g::rocker::D:D:D:D: D:D:D

falcon cobra
06-18-2012, 10:31 AM
What lives ? the rust...

06-18-2012, 11:00 AM
I was listening all week-end long and didn't hear anything. You must not have revved it too high. But.... CONGRATULATIONS! You driving it over for the next meeting?

06-18-2012, 11:59 AM
Ha Ha smart a**. Fire the motor for the first time in 3 years. I have not run it just fired it. I am finishing the fuel lines tonight and then I can run it. It still has open headers so I won't run it too long.
Probably end of June I should be able to move it on it's own power we will see how it goes as for the drive over to Seattle. If it is running good I will go for it.
The light is getting brighter!!:D

06-18-2012, 06:50 PM
Fantastic, you are getting closer. Can't wait for you to drive it to the meetings and shows.

06-20-2012, 08:18 AM
OK finished the fuel lines last night, need to install the fuel filler hose tonight, splash in some fuel and see if it leaks.:WHATTHE: If not time to run it for a bit.
Put in the new drive-shaft so now it is on to the steering, and the shifter. After that the brakes and first test drive. This should be fun because I won't have any glass in or the doors on!?! But you know you just have to move it under its own power asap!!!:banana:
The glow at the end of the tunnel is turning into a glimmer now. I will get some more pics up as soon as I get it over to my exhaust guy and get it up in the air.

06-20-2012, 09:37 AM
It is really interesting to see this progress and see your enthusiam at reaching these milestones. I went through them all and know exactly how you feel. congratulations. We can definitely relate. Just keep on keepin on. Good work.

06-21-2012, 03:33 PM
Sorry Steve that I haven't posted sooner. Reaching milestones myself and in headless chicken mode... not that any of that has to do with Falcons. :rolleyes: Haven't even barely been in my garage lately.

Glad to hear you are that much closer. It is a great feeling to know you are just about there, isn't it?

06-22-2012, 08:35 AM
Quick update: Fuel pump relay installed, started and ran well but very loud. Transmission fluid in, and no leaks!! One small fuel leak, quick turn of the wrench solved that.
This weekend; Brakes, steering, and hopefully the shifter assembly.
Goal: Drive up and down the street.:shift: Fingers crossed and maybe some pics of it out of the garage for a change..:BEER:

BillP 98201
06-24-2012, 07:08 AM
Great news Steve....... Cant wait to see it out of the garage

06-25-2012, 07:57 AM
Well plan failed. Went to the car show Saturday, played in the rain and showed off some stuff. Spent all day Sunday cleaning up the mess from Saturday. Oh well there is always this weekend...:(

06-26-2012, 12:46 PM
Oh yeah... been there, done that. Why do you think my 4-month plan turned into 9-months? You still need to consider throwing a party over there. It might be the only way I'll be able to convince myself to break from the fun I'm having over here.

06-26-2012, 05:46 PM
Party? I like party!

07-05-2012, 09:05 AM
Quick update: Steering system in, fuel system done, shifter install began. The days are getting longer but so is the honey do list. Soon as the shifter is in I can finish the brakes, then it is off to the exhaust shop!!
Still in a dilemma over the paint. My painter is a dick, He got his powder coating done but still won't start work on my car. Frustration is tempting me to do the flat black for now and worry about paint later?? What is your thought on that approach?
I really want to make at least one show with the delivery this year?!? Anyway I might have to put on a little get together and try to get a bunch of work done instead of me pecking away at it bit by bit. How is everyone's schedule? Saturday, or Sunday? First weekend in August maybe???
I'll pop a few more pictures tonight and get them up asap. Hope everyone is enjoying the nice weather and getting those cars out while we can.:BEER:

07-05-2012, 04:25 PM
Since I think paint is the absolute most important aspect I would suggest getting it the way you want it. Hold off or get another painter. Easy for me too say, I know how bad you want to get this done and on the road. Keep on keepin on.

07-05-2012, 04:57 PM
Thanks Larry, I was kind of leaning that way. Just getting very impatient after 3years. Got a bunch to do still before making the final decision.

07-09-2012, 02:54 PM
I still say that many projects stall because they never get on the road. You can always jamb it the color you want and paint it down the road. It really depends on the person, the budget, and things like that. But now you've let the cat out of the bag for the van... so good luck deciding now! :ROTFLMAO:

07-09-2012, 04:27 PM
I have a plan!! Painter has been aquired. I will finish getting the car running and if all goes well it should have color on it before the end of summer. (I know that is only a few days away) While it is at the paint shop I can play with the Van. So the assembly party might be in late August early September. Good thing I have heat in the garage.:D

07-16-2012, 08:18 AM
So this weekend on the delivery I finished the install of the Lokar shifter and selector module. Shift great and gave me a chance to run her through the gears. (on jack stands of course) No we are on to the brakes and hopefully a test drive!!!:D Pics coming soon...

07-17-2012, 07:59 AM
OK here is what it looks like so far. I am mounting the Lokar shift indicator stuff with the computer under the rear seat area. It will fit nicely here and be covered by the box the delivery came with.
Not sure if I should have went with a shorter shift arm though?? But she does shift nice and the tires moved the right direction to match the gear indicator. That was a plus.

07-17-2012, 10:47 AM
Looking good, Steve....... but that seat sure doesn't look very comfortable!

07-19-2012, 04:34 PM
My butt almost hits the floor, but it works for mock up purposes.:NERVOUS: