View Full Version : uh-oh i'm in trouble

06-16-2014, 11:43 PM
Well, the dookie is hitting the fan..

The wife gave me some cash to go look for falcon parts.
So with pair of binoculars I hit the dirt roads looking for hidden treasures.
So I head out to this area that has mobile homes that are mobile and cars that aren't. If we were down south I'd might make a Jeff Foxworthy comment.

Anyways I spot what looks to be a falcon rear end hidden in a yard full of cars. Bonus a owner is out side and I don't have to knock on doors, so I stop.

Well the falcon didn't have anything useable, but it was a falcon. What was left of that car should be melted into Budweiser cans. Not a single panel was useable.

So I ask if they had any other old fords they'd be interested in selling. They said sure everything is for sale if the price is right. By now you can see where this is going and I'm about to step in it knee deep.

So over to the shop we walk. Once inside I'm looking at a bunch of 70's stuff. Yuck! BUT.. yep you knew it was coming... over in the corner was a 60's ford pick up. Under a layer of dust and dirt.

So I ask, what can you tell me about the pickup? Oh that old thing? I'm thinking ok, must be a pile because the way they're talking about it.

Turns out that, that old thing is a 1965 f100 4x4 high-boy with 62k original miles. Its got a newer 360 with an edlebrock street master aluminum intake and a Holley carb. Its a 4 speed with granny low and a divorced transfer case, something I'll be if I keep buying old cars and trucks. But I didn't buy the falcon wagon, so. It not just me.

The back story is I've always had a soft spot for the 57-66 pickups. And now that I'm rural enough and I don't like driving the Fairlane down gravel roads, I've been half *** looking for a field or farm truck.

So I do some haggling agree on a price then did some horse trading. No cars were harmed in my trading, neither were the horses. Anyhow I'm now the proud owner of a pickup. oops

Threw in a battery plus some gas and been driving it around today.
Everything was working, but somehow the driver side brake light quit? Its not the bulb.. I ran out of light but I think its not getting power to the tail light.

My plan is to go junkyard crawling tomorrow.

06-16-2014, 11:50 PM
Waaaay cool Nathan! I'd love to cruise around in something like that. Can't wait to get some updates as you give it a spit shine.

Once the fur stop flying! :NERVOUS:

06-17-2014, 12:12 AM
Its been fun so far..

The old trucks sure are different to drive compared to the falcons.

I have some clearance marker and id lights to re-install once I make some new gaskets.

First priority fix the brake light.
First purchase obtain a shop manual.

06-17-2014, 10:23 AM
So much for my junkyard crawl.
Its been a steady moderate rain since 8am.. not the kind of weather I want to be outside pulling parts in.

Light rain ok, but this stuff, not a chance.


think my BBQ tonight might be canceled too.

06-17-2014, 02:14 PM
Ah man! I've been seriously thinking about getting one of those! Ask Gene, I almost bought one at the swap meet for $1800! Never talked to the guy, but that was his asking price on the For Sale sign. Money stayed in the bank though.

I have a '67 with a new motor in it, which I've casually tried selling a few times, but the body style I wanted (when I bought it) was a 61-66. Not much into the bump-side 67-72 or dent-side 73-79. I drove a 57 F100 in high school (my favorite of those years because of the single headlight system) and had a '56 Panel for years, but have never had the 61-66 style.

Yours is the one I mentioned to Gene as having the 61-66 body style, but has the 57-60 bed. Not sure why they did that, but they appear often that way. Yours being a 65 tends to refute my opinion that it was a transitional thing when the 61's came out they had too many of the old-style beds. They should'a ran out of those long before '65. Now it has me wondering even more why the old-style beds were used on the newer body trucks.

Good buy though!

06-17-2014, 04:00 PM

From the little research I've done and before i call it truth as I'd like to know the source, so right now I consider it internet folk lore but the info I found is that ford put the old box on the factory high boys.

I too thought that ford used the old beds in late 63 as a response to the unibody frames flexing and the doors popping open:WHATTHE:

But when I started finding 64 & 65 built that way I started looking deeper. What I found from looking at photos of other f100s is that ford built 2 kinds of 4x4s.

Type 1 cab and matching bed that has 4x4 hubs but sits no higher than the 2wd trucks.
I looked at one in cda I didnt believe it was 4x4.

Type 2 cab with missed matched bed. That is lifted. This truck sits higher than my 2013 f150.
My truck has newer blocks in the rear but the front appears stock. I think the po lifted the back to compensate for sagging springs.

The front springs hangers are stamped CAT not sure if that means anything but I thought it was cool.

Roger you have any ideas on my electrical issues?
Brake light worked and quit and its not the bulb.

06-17-2014, 04:07 PM
Turn signal flashes on the right and left? Brake lights go through the turn signal switch, so make sure it's not that. If TS's work, the wire connection is good to the bulb. And the bulb is good too. There is only one wire from the brake switch to the TS switch and then passes to both wires if switch in the center and only the opposite wire of the one that is signalling.

06-17-2014, 04:22 PM
Turn signals were left and right.
right brake light works. Left did but no longer.
bulb is good and it works.

The emergency flasher doesnt work that bulb either.

I did a quick power check at the socket and I got nothing but I think my test light ground wasnt good.

I'll try again later.

06-17-2014, 09:47 PM
Thanks Roger,

Your reminder about the brake lights running through the turn signal switch.
I went and played with the switch and its either worn out or shorted out.

It doesn't fully return to center after I turn a corner. The turn signals don't blink, but the brake light won't work because the switch isn't centered.

I can make either side quit working depending on which direction I made turn signal switch.

I think it also affects the hazard lights too, as sometimes one of the dash lights doesn't work either. When those are on.

06-22-2014, 06:29 AM

I could use your wiring expertise.

The f100 is an original alternator truck.
p.o. installed a gm one wire and removed the old regulator.

The alternator light doesnt work. The alt gauge that I imagine measures amps doesnt seem to work either.

The gauge reads -60 -30 0 30 60. When I turn the flashers on the needle moves with the flashing lights. 0 negative 0 negative amp draw.. ok gauge works.

How do I make the gauge read the alternator output?

I imagine it has something to do with the missing light and regulator.

Any ideas. I've never done a gm conversion. It charges but im anal about everything working.

Im trying to fix the horn circut too. I think the contact in the wheel is my problem.

06-22-2014, 10:47 PM
Look what I found behind a headliner in a 63 f100 at the junkyard today.
its a movie poster from a drive in from Lovell, WY dated june 1964 .

06-22-2014, 11:19 PM

For the ammeter to work that main charge wire (Alt to Battery) has to go all the way Alt to the ammeter and then back to the battery.

The charge indicator (dummy light) often doesn't work with a 1-wire setup like ours. I've converted to 3G alternators on both of mine. I use a volt meter as opposed to a light or ammeter, so I've not dug into whether there is a real way to do it or not. Or what it's doing in the first place. When Gene bought his a month ago we asked the guy who sells them how to connect up the light, and he said it doesn't work that way.

I'm guessing a part of the regulator has a component (like a relay) that when there is no charge (key on, engine off) it grounds though the bulb (light on) and when you start the motor and current flows through the relay if pulls the contact open and the light goes out. Just guessing, but that's how I'd do it.

I'll do some digging for you to see if I can't find you an answer to the idiot light with a GM Alt. But to be clear, you have a factory idiot light and an ammeter?

06-22-2014, 11:28 PM
Yep. Center gauge is Speedo, odometer, water temp, fuel gauge, oil light, alt light.

Gauge to the left is amp meter as I doubt they'd have 60 volt charging systems.

Gauge to the right is oil pressure.

The amp meter is hooked up to something as it will read a amp draw, flashers on. But when truck is running it doesn't read anything.

I looked at MAD electrical website. You can hook up a dummy light to the gm 3 wire and possibly the one wire if you remove the plug and hook up a wire to the R terminal.

I'll have to look into it more. I found the socket for the light and if I put a bulb in it, it lights up, but doesn't turn off.

I was hoping I could hook the field or the other wire up to the r terminal on the alternator and make it work.

06-22-2014, 11:38 PM
But the original wires are probably terminated where the old regulator was. Don't know. Wiring hacks are common. Who knows what's what now.

I'll look around for answers, but if you found something to try, you can mock-up right at the ALT. If you can get it to work there first, then trace-back from there to wire it that way at the dash.

06-23-2014, 04:28 AM
Regulator and everything has been removed.

I have one wire from battery going to solenoid. I think that where it goes.
then I have one factory plug. Green wire with a stripe iirc and a yellow wire.

I thought they were part of the horn circuit but I fixed that and its not.

This truck is wired different than the ford cars. Wiring is the same color code so far. But its different.

The starter solenoid nis on the back firewall and next to it is a power junction block.

Power from solenoid goes into it and a lot of stuff comes off of it.

I'm going to clean terminal there tonight. I'll take pictures.

06-23-2014, 10:37 AM
I've been reading on Mad, which is a good resource for GM alternators. I can't find where you said they allow you to connect a charge light. I see a mention that the regulators are the same, but is there a cap to expose that?

Still looking as I can, but pictures help. You may also need to physically trace where wires come from, go to, then return.

06-23-2014, 11:11 AM
Maybe it wasnt on mad's website then.

Some where I read you tap into the r terminal. They were also showing an older one wire gm alternator that had a removeable plug on the side that exposes two terminals.

I need to find the charge indicator wire on the truck. Should be yellow with black stripe.

Jeff W
06-25-2014, 09:10 PM
Look what I found behind a headliner in a 63 f100 at the junkyard today.
its a movie poster from a drive in from Lovell, WY dated june 1964 .

The Incredible Mr. Limpit

Kenny's favorite movie!

06-25-2014, 11:13 PM
The Incredible Mr. Limpit

Kenny's favorite movie!

A close second to "It Happened At The World's Fair". ;:)

06-26-2014, 07:07 AM
We think its a pretty neat piece of history. We framed it and hung it in the library with all the other auto memorabilia. ;:)

06-28-2014, 05:45 PM
Still need to take pictures.. oops..

I did notice something though. The amp gauge will read amp out put while cranking but not when running? Sounds like the alternator is wired to the wrong side of the starter solenoid, except its not wired to it.

On the back firewall is an isolator that has all sorts of big battery cables running to it.. something to do with Ford running all the power through the amp meter then back..

As for my charging light.. it doesn't work because I have power at both wires in the bulb socket:WHATTHE:..

Now I'm really concerned.. fireball waiting to happen, maybe?

I need to cut open the harness and figure out were they have the alternator routed too. Sounds like it might be in the wrong spot.

06-30-2014, 11:12 AM
Who knows after all these years. These are so simple to pull, untape, fix, and reinstall - I do it on almost everything I touch. I read somewhere about the way the regulator feeds the dummy light, which might point to having power to both leads, but if I understand correctly - you have nothing connected to the regulator, or don't have a regulator at all now.

Yes, pictures may help.

10-19-2014, 10:10 PM
Have been lamenting over my current truck for a while - needing work, but not feeling the truck deserves it. So for months have been looking and waiting for the right replacement to come across the CL. Late Friday night one showed up (had been listed for a month, but somehow missed it) and I sent email, looked at it Saturday and after a little time to walk away and sleep on it - made an offer and will be getting it soon. It's a 66 Custom Cab, which according to the VIN and data code came with a 352 and 3 speed. Has a C6 automatic now.

Supposed to be a trade-in at Bickford Ford at some point in the past, it's 99% straight and has only minimal surface rust - apart for some holes in the front of the bed due to a bed gas tank retaining stuff under it. It's been sitting a little while, but runs really good (so far). Supposed to be a 390 in it now, but not 100% sure about that. Matters not. Apart from a cruddy gas tank and unknowns like brakes, it looks like all the original paint and most will polish up. Plan to leave that alone. Will be doing all the 'safety' things before driving it, but it's good survivor truck!

Will also allow me to sell the '67 I have as a running/driving truck.

10-19-2014, 10:42 PM
Nice score Roger, my buddy Ron just picked up a 66 project. His is minus the engine and trans but rust free and already lowered.
Might need to talk about your 67 I'm kinda missing my super duty. Just the truck part not the diesel part.

10-20-2014, 05:40 AM

Very cool..

The wife has been eye balling a 64 on cl here.
Its mint green, and partially restored.
Its been on cl for awhile but had a 74 alaskan pop up camper in it. The owner was selling as a package deal only.

Well, now its for sale without the pop up at a price I was willing to pay for the truck by it's self.

Problem is im pretty much out of room, so its probably a no go.

But theres some nice ones out there..

I like the 63 4*4 in fife for $2300. Myself..

10-20-2014, 10:31 AM

Very cool...

I like the 63 4*4 in fife for $2300. Myself..

Yeah, I've been seeing that ad too. Just not willing to deal with ancient 4x4 bits and pieces. Not as needed as it might be over there. This one wasn't molested at all - in fact at one point in its past someone spent good money on a blue Velour upholstery job, which is still in pretty good shape. Kinda pimp, but may see if I can make it work for a while. Hopefully I can hold back the curse of WIAI!


BillP 98201
10-20-2014, 10:47 PM
Very nice find! If you need some help this winter, let me know

10-21-2014, 09:21 AM
Yeah - just trying to stay away from Nathan's "Uh-Oh" tied with "trouble". It may be hard to do. I've said before I'm my own worst enemy. But I am trying to leave it as much a survivor as it is. Sanitize and Safety only Sanitize and Safety only Sanitize and Safety only

It's home now thanks again to help of Gene and his BAT (big *** truck). ;) Took the wheels off to inspect the brakes and I'm glad I didn't drive it. The front wheel cylinders looked "freshly" wet. With a single brake system, that would not be pleasant to have fail. Even if it was only 18 miles away. Drove it the last half-mile though, and it drove OK for not having been on the road since 1998. Tires were a little square.

Found a receipt for the tires (which I don't like - either the rims or the tires) and they have about 3000 miles on them, but are 16 years old. They look good, but I might be forced to change them out.

Thanks Bill, I may need some elbow grease to help polish it! :BEER:

10-21-2014, 06:25 PM
Is that a short bed?

I got a set of old school wagon wheels free of you want them..
They're the white spoke wheels with the blue and red pin striping around the out side bead..

10-21-2014, 07:39 PM
Long bed, but that's fine with me.

Not wanting those wheels Nathan, but thanks for the offer. I might consider - depending on who buys my old truck - swap the chromy baby moon wheels from it to this truck to see how it looks. They are newer.

Also discovered it's a 9" Posi of some type. Have to see if it came with or was added. Not sure if you can find out much with it closed up.

More to come, but should start my own thread, huh? :)

10-22-2014, 06:14 PM
Mines a long bed too. Doesn't bother me either.

I don't blame you for not wanting the wheels. I don't want them either.:ROTFLMAO:
the slicks all come with 9" rears. The posi would be cool though.

I went with a ultra wheel 164. Wish I found 16" wheels for a better tire options.

Wish I worked closer to work and could drive it more.

I think it could use a power up grade..
A 4bt would be really cool. But might be sacrilegious though.

We could just rename this the slick thread.

10-22-2014, 08:10 PM
Slick? Is that this era truck's nickname? Will have to Google that now.

If you don't mind me posting here, we'll just keep sharing. :BEER:

10-22-2014, 08:47 PM
The 52/53 to 56 are called Effies or fat fenders
57-60 are fridges
61-66 are slicks..

Then there is bump sides and dent sides which is 67 & up.

I don't mind sharing a slick thread on a falcon forum..

The funny thing is you start talking to slick owners and the used to or still own falcons too.

Its like some weird progression some progress one way from slick to falcon or visa versa

10-23-2014, 08:22 AM
The 52/53 to 56 are called Effies or fat fenders
57-60 are fridges
61-66 are slicks..

Then there is bump sides and dent sides which is 67 & up.

Bump sides - '67 - '72
Dent sides - '73 - '79
Jail birds - '42, '46, '47 (no new trucks produced '43 - '45 - wish I still had my '46)

Don't know anymore.


10-23-2014, 02:18 PM
Yeah, I have a '67 F100 and had a '78 F350, a '56 F100 Panel, and a 50 F2 so knew the nicknames of all those and what they refer to and why-so, with the exception the '50 F2. I don't know the nickname of those years either ('48-52). Maybe Larry knows now that he's messing with one.

Slicks, Fridges, and JailBirds - all news to me. Not too sure what they all represent.


10-23-2014, 07:24 PM
The only nickname for the 40's Fords that I have heard is "40 Effie's". Didn't matter what year in the 40's span. That was from my father in law who owned them. Larry

10-25-2014, 05:41 PM
Pictures from Pumpkin lane.
Car show and fall festival.

10-27-2014, 03:24 PM
Nathan - you were not kidding when you said you were in trouble. All I know is you need to start eating something - and soon. All this work on the wagon and your truck have you wasting away to nothing!

Here's a little progress report from me...

I'm finding some old Falcon bits in this truck. For instance, I had to pull the dash out to have a look at all the wiring, which so far is in very good shape (very little hacking was done [yay]), and the dash cluster, which is screwed to the back of this once very fancy machine-turned looking dash face, is a round-body Falcon cluster. They must have had a lot of parts left over So far I can't tell any difference from the dozens of them I have collected over the years. Gonna try to clean up the dash face and bezel, but - while I'm at it - I may separate the left/right turn signals like I did on the Ranchero.

Otherwise I've just been pulling out the old 80's radio and other non-essential items and will reinstall newer bits to replace them. I did pull a power brake unit out of a wrecking yard and a new wiper motor system so I can add the intermittent wipers.

The gas tank had sludge/varnish in it that used to be gasoline in a previous life. Pumped all that out just to get the tank out (gas is heavy), but found it was far too gone to want to save. So, in addition to all the new brakes and other fix-it-up parts, a new gas tank and sending unit is on order now. I debate a relocation, but opted to leave it in the stock location. I could make a cover for it like people do to shield the trunk from the back seat on the Falcon/Mustang. Would be easy to do

The upholstery, though in not that bad of shape where you sit, is very "brittle and fragile." I wish I knew if it was original, but it seems too custom to be. So I'm trying to decide what to do with it. Found a very nice set of leather seats from a Buick Regal - I mean, like new - but couldn't get the driver seat out of the car. Rain was insane both times I tried, and the power being off on them don't allow me to move the seat forward to access the rear bolts. They would have been cush in this thing.

That's about it for now.

10-27-2014, 04:30 PM
custom cabs had a carpeted tank cover.
Does your truck have snaps under the back window?

There are lots of falcon similarities. As you discovered with the gauge cluster in yours.. its not a 65 cluster?

My truck shares the falcon eco online gauge cluster. Speedo and four gauges in a 6" circle. Then I have a separate amp Hague and oil pressure gauges.

10-28-2014, 10:35 AM

Have joined the Ford Truck Enthusiasts site to research this. Really big site. Basically the word came back that I have a custom interior added by some previous owner. I suspected as much. I don't recall seeing any snaps, but they may have been removed with the interior "upgrade." Bottom-line is I think I'd need more than carpet to keep the fuel from spilling into the cab in a worst-case scenario. Not a huge worry, but may investigate something. I did get this nifty glass breaker tool at the Mini Regional.

The dash-back is definitely closer related to the round-body falcon dash-pod than the 64/65 dash, which is more closely related to the Mustang dash. I have all the same basics of that dash in the center section and on the left of it an AMP gauge and on the right side Oil Pressure. Under the dash the PO added Stewart Warner Volt and Vacuum gauges. And there was a huge Tach strapped to the steering column. I'm debating removal of the AMP gauge and replacing it with the AutoMeter 2" tach I found at a garage sale in Hawaii - new in the box for $30. [thumb]

Lots of parts are trickling in from LMC truck parts. I was really nervous with what I was reading about this place (poor quality), but the door window anti-rattle stuff looks really high quality. It all looks really good. Now just need the time to start working on it. Less rain would help. Should have played musical cars and put this into the garage and the Ranchero into the carport. Too late now. :bicker:

10-28-2014, 01:41 PM
Very cool.

I wasnt a fan of fte, alot of bickering there.
Kinda the same with some of the face book groups.
Oh well.

10-29-2014, 08:10 AM
Have not been there long enough to tell, but a site that big, and truck related, has to draw a few edgy types. I don't see me posting that much there.

There is really only one thing I'm not sure about now - and that's the read-end. I know it's either a limited slip - or some other "posi-like" rear-end. I know it's close to a 3.0 gear. I just don't know enough about 9" rear-ends to know if it has clutches and, if so, do I or should I use a friction modifier just in case it is when I go to replace that gear oil. I'll be changing all the oils, just because, and I don't have anyway of knowing what this thing is without pulling it out. A while I'm at it thing I'd prefer not to do.

Onward and upward.

And how about that Falcon! [a plug to keep people happy after all this F100 talk]

10-29-2014, 05:19 PM
Most gear oils today will already have the friction modifier in them. Its difficult to find oil with out it.

If its a limited slip then it has clutches.

10-30-2014, 08:12 AM
I'm helping Gene do a lot of major work. One of the changes was to switch from a 3.89 open to 3.50 traclok 9" and the guy he bought it from sent, with it, a bottle of foul smelling additive. I only finished swapping axle bearings last night, so have not looked at gear oil with this need in mind before. Never having had a traclok style rear-end in anything, I just assumed from the fact he sent a bottle of additive that there is something more needed. I've read elsewhere a few times a similar thing.

Studying read-end types is painful. So many types. I'm just wondering what type I really have, since it's not the stock 3.50 open the truck came with...

10-30-2014, 08:16 PM
Back in the old in days you needed that bottle of nasty stuff.
You can still use it.

The gear oil I've bought this year all said recommended for limited slips.

I'm looking for a crew cab.. not that I can afford one. I just want one.

The wife wants a 58-60 flare side short box.

Going to be hard when I only win $3 playing the lotto

11-01-2014, 04:09 PM
As you know I am not a genius at any of this, but when I installed my limited slip rear end it would jump or feel like it caught when turning. I contacted the place where I bought the rear end to ask for help and they told me that you have to add the "additive" to keep it from locking up. I did and it helped immediately. Had to buy the additive from Ford. Again, I am not going to act like I know why, but it works. Larry

11-03-2014, 11:29 AM
Considering most only "top things up" in a rear-end - gear oil may be just that: compatible with as opposed to a replacement for. But who changes their rear-end gear oil - except when replacing the 3rd member?

I've not gone far enough to get to draining and replacing mine yet, but will post more when I've researched more on this. Unless the additive is $100 or something, seems a fail-safe at the very least.

Experience is indicative of the need, so you don't have to be an expert as long as you've experienced it.

11-03-2014, 12:45 PM
What does the green arrow beside this thread signify?

11-03-2014, 01:19 PM
That it's a gooder thread than all the others!


11-03-2014, 02:42 PM
Because it was started by a moderator?

11-03-2014, 06:49 PM
I did it by accident when I started this thread.

There's away to put icons next to your post.
Like a question mark or as I was trying to do an exclamation mark.

11-04-2014, 01:19 PM
Ah... now I'm disappointed.

12-02-2014, 11:33 AM
Have not posted about this in a while, but I've been steady at this "side project" now for about a month or so. It is danged cold out there, so fingers are not moving as fast as I'd like. But so far, here's some of what is done:

1) King-pins are replaced
2) Front brake lines pulled and replaced along with a new brake distribution block, dual master cylinder, and new wheel cylinders. Still need to do the rear wheel cylinders and then I can install all the new brake parts.
3) New drums in the front and freshly turned in the back.
4) New gas tank and sender is installed.
5) Heater was pulled and restored with new core and felt. They don't make heater box kits for this (everything is riveted together), but that didn't stop me from taking it apart and rebuilding it.
6) Pulled all the doors apart and replaced the lift tracks on both door glass, as well as replacing the seals for the vent windows. Need to do some POR15 behind everything before putting in the door glass and belt-line weatherstrip, but will do that as soon as it's warmer. One wing-window pivot broke, so I had to repair that.
7) Seats (new leather from Pick-n-Pull) have been cleaned and dyed blue.
8) All the other interior panels have been cleaned and dyed blue. Carpet and headliner included.
9) Back glass was pulled and seal replaced.
10) Air vent doors repaired and latches reworked or remade.
11) Instrument panel rebuilt.
12) Intermittent wiper system installed.

All for now. Sorry nothing Falcon related... :(

12-02-2014, 06:31 PM
I like the instrument panel. That turned out really nice. :)

Jeff W
12-02-2014, 08:10 PM
Everything looks amazing, as usual. I see what you are talking about when you say the Instrument Cluster looks like a Falcon Round Body. Must have been the same designer.

12-04-2014, 09:42 AM
From the back, this is a Falcon pod. Similar most to the dash style I redid for Steve's sedan delivery, which, if you recall, only went to 42 MPH because I added the high-beam in the center and split out the left/right turn signals - and the speedo hit the light tube. :doh: This dash suffers from the same single L/R turn signal indicator and I opted to leave it alone right now. May pull it out again and do it later, if it bugs me too much.

03-03-2015, 11:26 AM
Nathan, Updating this mostly for your benefit, but also for my mom who watches for things I'm doing too.

A couple weeks ago I got the truck all put back together out in the carport and was able to start it again and drive it over into the garage... where I proceeded to take it apart again. :doh: Things done are wheels/tires, new brakes, lines, hoses, with dual M/C, king pins, shocks, Buick Regal leather seats, seat belts, gas tank, wiring, dash restore, intermittent wipers, heater box rebuilt, air vents reworked, transmission flush and filter, back bumper and 2" receiver, and glass tracks, seals, rubbers and headliner cleaned and all repainted to match.


Steve powder coated wheels from his Bronco and they are now installed on my truck. They look good! All new wheels and tires.


I've now been working to detail the engine bay a little. Pulled the grille and upper/lower valance to let me repaint all the black. Just need to clean it up a little and patch a couple very small holes in the core support. I've heard and seen these things rusting out to nothing, so was happy to see it was only minor. Also adding a Duraspark II ignition and rebuilt the power steering (new Red Head box to replace the 30 year old Read Head box that was leaking like a sieve). Other than that it all pretty decent under there. No severe molestation. Steve is about to get my upper and lower valance, batter tray, and valve covers to blast. I found the color code for the Marlin Blue paint, so will redo the upper valance. The lower valance is supposed to be Argent silver and the battery tray and valve covers will be low-gloss black.


There was some bad rust on the forward part of the bed. Gene and I (mostly Gene - thank you Gene) cut out the rust to match the big sheets of steel I picked up to fill it all in. And then I started stitching them back in. These beds, like the Ranchero, were designed to fail. Could not see any way they couldn't rust out. Same with the core support, but would have paid to tell owners to flush out the crud.

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Interior is coming along. 3-point belts are in, just need to punch a hole in the corner headliner pieces to get those back in. Wiring is all reworked, but will be hooking up some tunes once I get back to inside the cab work. Repainted and wrapped the steering wheel in leather dyed the same as the seats. Dash looks good with blue LED's. May do red one's in the Ranchero now!

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So much fun!

03-03-2015, 03:42 PM
I'm going to sell mine and hope i get enough coin to pay for the body work on the hardtop.

I attempted to learn how to hammer and dolly.. yea. I made things worse so im done trying for now.

05-04-2015, 10:06 AM

Did you sell your 4x4 yet? I have been frantic trying to get mine done enough to drive for a while. While I'm at it things. :doh:

The white paint was just too pocked with rust issues, so I opted to sand it all off, address the rust stuff, and repaint it. Rustoleum Wimbledon White. No, Rustoleum doesn't make Wimbledon White. I mixed it myself.

Steve powder coated some of the front pieces and those are on and look good. Wesco Autobody mixed me a quart of Marlin Blue to paint the upper valence and other touch-up things I'll do on the blue parts.

Anyway, this is where it's at today and some of what it took to get it there.

Here it is with the grille and upper and lower valence on. In hind-site should have just had Steve powder coat the grille. The paint is OK, but PC would have been gooder. The Marlin Blue is a very good match.


Here is the fixes to the bed. Gene helped make the hole and bed patches and I welded them in. Not a perfect fix, but more than adequate. And I'm sure will never rust through again. I plan to have the be LineX'd at some point.


I started trying to feather some of the rusty bits, and it just led to sanding all the white off. Feathering always looks like feathering. So in reality it probably took less time to just take off all the white.


And early Sunday morning it got all new white. This is the first base coat. I'll sand a little on it to remove some of the repair imperfections that showed up and then will give it a good second coat and call it done.


05-04-2015, 10:19 AM
Oh, didn't post much about the other work on the motor and stuff. Ended up having a power steering leak at the box, so that went to RedHead to get rebuilt. The motor has the newly powder coated valve covers on (didn't sand on them to expose the ribs - figuring they'll last longer that way) and the power steering pump I rebuilt too. Pretty much just looked it all over, cleaned it good, and sprayed it black. Swapped to DSII distributor and a GM ignition coil stuffed into a DSII box. Had to replace carburetor and starter too. Pulled all the wiring and made sure it was all in good nic and re-wrapped it all. As per me, very sanitary.

05-04-2015, 11:16 AM
Let me know when your ready to sell that one Roger! The 67 is doing great and the kid is still smiling!:D
Looks nice but you need to button her up and drive. I found the only cure for the WIAI is to run out of money!

05-04-2015, 11:24 AM
I agree. Some things are easier to do while its apart than once it's together. Getting real close though.

Probably won't be selling it anytime soon though... or as cheap. You got a smoking deal on the black truck. If he does stuff to it, would love to see pics.

05-06-2015, 09:51 AM

Sold the truck a while ago.. $3500, made a little profit.
New owner drove it to quincy, wa with out a hick up.
He's taking it to the Boise, Id area.

I'm stalled on the hard top.. just too busy lately to finish paint prep.
I'm guessing it wont be finished by July.. and if it is it wont be done well..

Thinking about getting it panted and selling it.. we'll see.. depends on how well it turns out..

I actually want to pick up another truck.. I'm watching a 1966 slick swb with a 390 on craigslist. Its gone from $4000 to $2750.. if it gets low enough I might be tempted.. its 800 mile round trip.. so driving down and waving cash isnt an option.

The wife is against it. She wants a 50s truck.. has to be swb big back window.. 57 to 59 only or 49 to 51..

Guess i need to buy some lotto tickets..

06-16-2015, 03:52 PM
I meant to post this earlier, but forgot. Last Friday I took the truck over to Line-X and had the bed coating applied. Turned out really nice. Still amazed at how little damage (apart from the rust Gene and I addressed in the front) this truck had. Here's a couple pics of how it all turned out.


Then I cleaned up the bed trim and put that on.


Being out under the trees all the time I hope this keeps it from getting too ratty too soon. It is a pain somewhat to put on.


Now I'm trying to put my garage back in order so I can put the Falcons back where they belong! It grew into such a chaotic mess I couldn't find anything.

Feels good though to be project-less. I'm getting too old to keep up with myself.

06-16-2015, 10:18 PM
Here is my latest oops.

Or should i say the wife's?.. we were inly going to look..

Took it to long beach, wa this weekend. Stopped at rim rock lake on the way back.. sandwiched 2 stops at bale breaker brewery. Coming and going.

Jeff W
06-17-2015, 12:00 AM
It looks pristine. Thanks for including the shot of the inside. Brings back memories of the 70' with my folks.

06-17-2015, 02:37 AM
Same here. I think we (my folks) had a Shasta with that exact same floor plan. The condition looks amazing. What year is it?

06-18-2015, 12:02 PM
Hehehe. I cheated its a brand new 2016.
Shasta in celebration of their 75th anniversary re-released the 1961 airflyte. They only produced 1941 units for this celebration, they are built in 2 floor plans. 16 foot or 19 foot and come in your choice of 3 colors. Red, sea foam, butternut yellow.

Shasta just finished production, so if you are in the buying market you better hurry.

Mine is unit 1183. Its 1 of 310 19 foot red units built.

06-18-2015, 10:05 PM
The one we had must have been a 70's version. Seems like the same floor plan though and it had those wings on the back.

06-19-2015, 08:38 AM
Nathan, you aren't going to be pulling it with the new Ford are you??? Now you need to get that older Ford your were mentioning to fit with the trailer. Love the trailer. Larry

06-19-2015, 02:18 PM
My plan is to find a 57 through 60 f250.

Put a modern engine and transmission in it and haul ***.

If it weren't for the sprint being painted right now, id own the truck too. I found a 1960 f250 big back window truck. Two tone blue and white.. oh well timing sucked.