View Full Version : Heater restoration

11-26-2014, 01:54 PM
Two questions about heater restoration (for my 61):

Heater Core- Unless this is leaking...should I just assume this is ok? Should I have any concerns with this at all?

The black painted metal doors and trap door inside...mine have quite a bit of rust and clearly it would be best to remove them to blast and paint them. However, I still can't seem to find the replacement rivets. Anyone know where to find those?

11-26-2014, 03:57 PM
For my part, I had the heater box apart and didn't want to have to drain the radiator and pull it again later, so I replaced the core at that time. Not too expensive. As for the corrosion, I think all Falcons are corroded in the heater box (at least mine was). I didn't remove any rivets as all was solid, just rusty. I purchased a gasket set (many vendors available, and inexpensive), dis-assembled it, buffed rust away, repainted with Derusto and re-assembled with the new gasket kit. Just be careful to not break the fiber component halves while removing the clips holding the assembly halves together. I also replaced the defroster ducting and "paper bugles" with "plastic bugles" while all was apart.

Jeff W
11-26-2014, 07:31 PM
What I did:

1) New Heater Core (with tan carpet I didn't want a messy leak)

2) Carefully removed the clips holding the two halves of the box together. I learned wrecking earlier boxes how easy it is to break the fiberglass bumps under the clips. Don't use a screwdriver between the clips and the fiberglass to pry. Maybe Roger can draw another poor diagram to show where to put the screwdriver and use leverage to kind of straighten the clip and lift over the bump.

3) I taped up the fiberglass next to the door hinges and gave them a blast in the cabinet.

4) I painted the doors and all metal Satin Black and left the fiberglass alone. Some have painted everything which looks great also.

5) use the $15 kit to foam it up

There are two thicknesses of heater cores. Mine should have used the thicker core but I am cheap and bought the thinner one for less. I have heard there is a factory spacer used on some boxes, I used Frost King weather stripping from Home Depot to make up the difference (I think 1/2")

11-29-2014, 12:22 AM
Maybe Roger can draw another poor diagram...



Jeff W
11-29-2014, 12:21 PM
No offense intended. I was quoting you when you drew the picture to help understand he removal process for the drip rail stainless. It was a very quick but helpful diagram showing the cross section of the drip rail and securing bends in the dress up strip.

Since the correct removal for the heater box clip is also cryptic, I though one of your simple drawings would help.

Sorry I you took it the wrong way.:NERVOUS:

11-29-2014, 06:44 PM
Thanks guys...
It seems like nobody is removing the doors. Likely god advice.
Everyone put in a new heater core.
And, I have broken the plastic a bit in one place at a clip, but I think I can envision what you mean Jeff.
I do have the gasket kit already.
I'll update this post when I get deeper into it...

12-02-2014, 02:32 PM
No offense intended. :NERVOUS:

I seem to always get the bad heebie jeebies directed at me. No matter what I do, how often I help, in whatever ways I try to help - I always get the shortest stick handed to me. Why is that? I often ask "why do I even try helping?" "What's it all about?" "Is this really my lot in life? "What 'is' the meaning of life?"

It's always go, go, go, do, do, do, help, help, help, post, post, post... then... moan, moan, moan.

Whoa is me. :doh::doh::doh:


OK, got that off my chest.

We're all good now.



12-02-2014, 02:42 PM
And just so we are REALLY clear - that was fully satirical.

Or was it....





12-03-2014, 11:06 PM
Wow do we need to break out the cheese??:ROTFLMAO:

12-04-2014, 09:21 AM
Sometimes you just need to live on edge [of insanity] a little. And by golly I deserve it.


12-04-2014, 08:34 PM
Don't fall over the edge though. :banana: