View Full Version : carb work

10-22-2017, 06:45 AM
I need to find a good carburetor person. Any suggestions ?

10-24-2017, 11:07 AM
What kind of carburetor and what kind of work does it need? I've been known to fix 1 or few hundred of them.

10-25-2017, 07:48 AM
200 6 cyl engine with holey carb. Runs very rough when cold better when warm but still crappy. Misses and sputters on slow climb like my driveway . Very good compression , electronic ignition , new plugs and wires , fuel pump , filter , Wife says it pings when I get into the gas but I am almost deaf and don't hear it.
Fell free to call me

10-26-2017, 09:38 AM
Ric, I'll give you a call Friday when I'm available next.

I assume you've checked timing on this as well? Pinging, if it is happening, would point to timing being too far advanced. Also, the Carb would need to have the spark control vacuum source. All stuff to check while you're at it.

The Holley 1 barrel is notorious for having issues due to warping. Actually, most 60 y.o. carburetors are pretty tweaked by now. I've been able to work past some of these issues before, but some I've seen are a too far gone. In these cases you'll need to be prepared for plan "b".

Will touch base tomorrow.


10-28-2017, 06:39 AM
Thanks for calling I will check my voltage today and the timing too. I am looking forward to getting it over to you and having you help troubleshoot my issues.
Thanks again

10-30-2017, 12:32 PM
No worries Ric. I'll text you over my address this week so you will have it.

11-03-2017, 11:52 AM
LOL well I figured out that I am getting 9 v to my ignition but can't figure out which is the pink wire. Good grief

11-03-2017, 01:21 PM
I just texted you too.

The pink wire plugs into the ignition switch harness. Kind'a hard to see unless you lay on your back with your head under the dash. Ask me how I know. There is a short pigtail on the IGN switch connector with a female bullet connector and the pink wire plugs into it - then runs externally to the dash harness (taped to the harness) before terminating at one of the two firewall connectors. On the engine side this pink wire converts to a Red/Green wire going to the coil and to a brown wire going to the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid.

The pink wire is plugged in at the switch - rather than being hard-wired - because it is a service part and may need replacing.

So, this is how it works: When you turn the key to the "Start" position the solenoid activates and sends 12v to the starter (big wire) AND to the small brown wire at the "I" terminal. This send the coil the full 12v (up the brown wire to the connector, then back down the Red/Green to the coil) to start the car.

When you release the key (if engine started) the ignition switch is now sending 12v out that little pigtail to the pink "resistance wire", which by the time it reaches the firewall is now 9v. The 9v is now on the Red/Green and Brown wire too, though the brown wire leading to the solenoid isn't activating anything.

When you install an ignition system needing full-time 12 volts, you unplug the pink wire (tape off the exposed end of the pink wire) and plug in a regular wire there and run it to the ignition/coil - leaving the blue/green wire connected too. This allows the starter solenoid to also send 12 volts to the ignition/coil in the start position.

Note: this requires a coil capable of seeing 12 volts all the time. The stock coils can't handle full time 12 volts. Most after-market performance coils are rated for this service. If you (and I know you don't) have a stock coil you have to maintain the pink wire and tee into the IGN switch pigtail and run a wire ONLY to the the electronic ignition device and leave the blue/green wire on the coil to keep it at 9v.

I know, too much information...

11-07-2017, 02:23 PM

Anxiously awaiting a driving report to see how it worked out for you.

As I indicated you have a carburetor lacking the required Load-o-matic vacuum source to provide the distributor the correct advance curve. This, being one of Ford's better ideas, has to be maintained if you want any normal driving response from your car. You really only have a couple options. Get the right-type carburetor or get a distributor with both mechanical as well as vacuum advance. Both are hard pills to swallow since neither are cheap to accomplish.

Here's a link to a discussion on this:


I do have the correct carburetor for this setup. I can get a lot of money for it ($250 or more), which make it a hard thing to sell to a local member. It would need to be refreshed since it hasn't been on a car for a while, but here's a bit of history with it:


Getting a new distributor is cheaper and the only issue you have is maintaining the Pertronix since "I am not sure" if the they make a points/condenser type distributor with vacuum and mechanical advance. A quick search on Rock Auto wasn't conclusive. They list the same "points style" distributor from 1965 to far past when the Load-o-matic era was supposed to be over, which is about 1968.

So, nothing is very clear about what to do - other than it is obvious that the shops who should know (ala a local Mustang shop) didn't make this obvious connection and still took your money. Reminds me of another shop someone used.

Here's a shop who did as reported here:


11-07-2017, 11:33 PM
After a bit more sleuthing I see now that there is a clear difference in distributors and the top-most distributor in this Rockauto listing would allow you to swap the distributor, put in the Pertronix you have, and keep your carburetor. You will have improved acceleration and likely better control over timing and improved fuel economy as a benefit. Swapping the distributor could be a 30 minute or less thing.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1970,falcon,3.3l+200cid+l6,1127977,ignition,d istributor,7108

11-08-2017, 06:36 AM
My car ran much better on the way home and pulled my driveway much smoother. THANK YOU:banana:
So I am gathering that you think it will make another world of difference if I order the distributor you sent the link to. I don't think the cost is out of line at all if it is going to make the Falcon fly higher. I am going to do it today

11-08-2017, 10:17 AM
lol we have done everything but work on the carb.
Any way I ordered the the new distributor should be here early next week.
Wonder if anyone needs the one I am going to pull out. It only has about 1000 miles on it

11-08-2017, 09:24 PM
Ric, if the Carb was done right before, then having the correct distributor to match it will at least keep the timing curve correct. Right now it is who knows what. If your wife was hearing a ping, that is not something you want going on.

04-16-2018, 05:43 AM
lol well sorry for the big gap between messages. I did change the distributor and updated the igniter and coil. The falcon is running better BUT it still feels like it floods out at low speeds and the tail pipe is still always black. The pinging has gone away. So that being said are you still up for rebuilding the carb ?

04-16-2018, 04:24 PM

I see, also, your other request thread. I've got no more ends of the candle I can burn at this moment, so I hope you can find someone capable or perhaps make it until I can help. I might find enough time if spread out over the span of maybe 2 or 3 weeks, but not sure you are able to be without it for that long.

It (rebuilding carburetors) really is a dying art and few pay very close attention to what is "potentially faulty" with a 50+ year old carburetor. I'm really not aware of who to send you to. Throwing a kit at one may be enough, but most need close scrutiny for bad/warped castings, or excessive clearances. Some are just scrap.

Anyway, sorry I can't jump on this for you at this moment. If you have the option of pulling it off and dropping it off with me for a while, I'll do what I can as fast as I can.

04-16-2018, 08:49 PM
thanks for getting back to me . The car is up and running so I guess I will keep my eyes open for someone who can rebuild it right for me. In the mean time I will look into picking up a good rebuild kit for it . Maybe it will help if I have the kit on hand.