Rainier Falcons > The FalconForum  

Go Back   Rainier Falcons > The FalconForum > Blogs > BPVan

Rate this Entry

L6 240 Houdini

Submit "L6 240 Houdini" to Digg Submit "L6 240 Houdini" to del.icio.us Submit "L6 240 Houdini" to StumbleUpon Submit "L6 240 Houdini" to Google
Posted January 17th, 2011 at 11:47 AM by BPVan
Updated July 13th, 2011 at 11:37 PM by BPVan

Thanks again for everyone's advice on a machine shop, I should hear back today on the progress of it.

The 240 swap is in full motion. As far as the block I decided to follow up on one I found on CL that was already rebuilt (recently too) as the cost and time was less than fixing the block I have.

I know it is a general rule to replace as many parts as you can as you want to avoid any weak links as well as another teardown in 6 months, however where to draw the line? I spent yesterday stripping the remaining items off of the old block to be ready for the new one. Now I am replacing most items: All pumps, coil, distributor, gaskets, and hoses/lines. I did pull out the listers and rods and they seems to be in real good shape. (Engine they came out of has approx 5000mi on it). The rods look true when I roll them on a flat surface and the lifters barely have any wear on the bottom, plus they seem indestructible. I figure a good cleaning and they should be good to go, right? Any other checks I need? The headbolts all look real clean and true as well.

Also the engine mounts. Other than some rust the rubber is still real solid and the bolts are fine. I figure a little wire wheel love and some paint and these are good to go. Part of my mind says these parts cheap ($3/rod 6$/lifter, $18 mount) and I should just buy them, but they add up, add headbolts and the cost equates to a set of weatherstripping for my doors I so desperately need. Plus it feels wasteful not to reuse as much as I can.

Anyway here are some pics of the new block. Should have most of the assembly done by this weekend.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	New Block 1.jpg
Views:	967
Size:	135.6 KB
ID:	55   Click image for larger version

Name:	New Block 2.jpg
Views:	973
Size:	117.4 KB
ID:	56   Click image for larger version

Name:	New Block 3.jpg
Views:	931
Size:	127.3 KB
ID:	57   Click image for larger version

Name:	New Block 4.jpg
Views:	950
Size:	100.0 KB
ID:	58  
Posted in 240 Build
Views 13345 Comments 10 Edit Tags
« Prev     Main     Next »
Total Comments 10


  1. Old Comment
    Jeff W's Avatar
    That block looks great!

    Of the items you are considering reusing, the only one that give me pause are the lifters. It may be a wives tale so do your research... I have read that lifters become "intimate" with the cam lobes on non-roller engines. when the micro-wear on the lifter surface is not matched to the old cam, it may "wipe a lobe" on the cam.

    Again, that may just be story and hold no truth.

    Do some checking with someone smarter than me. Whatever route you go I think it's smart to add a can of zinc additive to the oil for the break-in. Modern oils have much less than when our engines were designed/built. Less important with stock cam geometry.

    Are you going with your 4-barrel out of the gate or is that a later project?
    Posted January 17th, 2011 at 12:24 PM by Jeff W Jeff W is offline
  2. Old Comment
    redfalken's Avatar
    Did you keep the lifters in order to know there original position? I've heard that's important. I lost a small part to one of my lifters so had to replace it with a new one. The guy at Action said a new lifter on a used cam has never given him trouble. A new cam should always get new lifter though. A good break in additive might be cheap insurance.

    It's such a low milage block, I would think it doesn't need much. They're pretty tough engines!!
    Posted January 17th, 2011 at 11:15 PM by redfalken redfalken is offline
  3. Old Comment
    BPVan's Avatar
    After some chat with a few others I have been scared into replacing everything. I got a call back from the machine shop about the head and it is worst case scenario as I expected, but by Friday I will have an as-new head. I did keep the Lifters and lifting rods in order just in case and I do think they can be reused on the same block, just not the new block.

    As far as the 4bbl I think it is a go. I already have the intake and it stares at me every time I am in the shop. I debated keeping the 1bbl setup and cleaning it up and there is a small chance I may to save a little money for now (Holley 8007 = almost $400!). Since the intake is not to hard to change even in the van it may get saved for a later date.

    The same phrase keeps coming up during this project: "You're already this far, you might as well...". Eh, where does it end?
    Posted January 18th, 2011 at 01:33 PM by BPVan BPVan is offline
  4. Old Comment
    Luva65wagon's Avatar
    Hence the reason for my previous blog entry;

    As for lifters - it's not a old wives tale. You really never want to use old lifters unless they go on an old cam in exactly the same spot. If you don't have lifters in the new block - get them. They are cheap enough. Get some good lifter lube and coat the surfaces between the cam lobes and the underside liberally.

    Looks like a nice block though. So, what was the "worse case" from the shop? A crack? All new seats, guides, valves, springs?
    Posted January 21st, 2011 at 07:54 PM by Luva65wagon Luva65wagon is offline
  5. Old Comment
    BPVan's Avatar
    Your posting hits the nail on the head so well it shoots through the board. Another way to think of it is If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it again? Long story short this engine will have all new internals. The only used items (Cleaned and repainted) will be the oil pan, valve cover, harmonic balancer, push rod cover, timing cover, head bolts, motor mounts, and a few brackets. Today I went to my favorite hardware store and bought all new bolts.

    Worst case meaning everything has to be replaced. They are milling and dipping the head and replacing every part possible (Valves, springs, rockers, etc...). The head is solid, it just has close to 30 years of buildup on it from sitting. It will be ready for pickup today, don't fret there will be some pictures.

    I spent the weekend cleaning up the lower end parts. The parts in the picture had a light layer of moss on them when I started. They get painted blue tonight along with the other mount and the push rod cover.

    Question: Do I need to coat the timing gears with anything but motor oil before I seal them up?

    Posted January 24th, 2011 at 02:11 AM by BPVan BPVan is offline
  6. Old Comment
    BPVan's Avatar
    Assembly begins... Finally...

    Oil Pump and pickup screen

    These parts had moss on them 3 days ago.
    Posted January 24th, 2011 at 11:45 PM by BPVan BPVan is offline
    Updated January 25th, 2011 at 01:09 PM by BPVan
  7. Old Comment
    BPVan's Avatar
    I was hoping the next update would be me starting the Engine but as usual delays have taken place. Jeff and Kenny had the privilege of stopping over during the motor pull and replacement. The new one is in and now I am on to the linkage work.

    My new challenge is the Offy dual port intake is not going to work out as I thought, its a bit too wide for the dog house. I measured before buying it and it seemed to be clear, but I didn't take enough room in account for the breather lines off the back of the intake. I have a message into Clifford to get the dimensions on theirs, but its looking like I may be going back to stock.

    Posted February 21st, 2011 at 07:20 PM by BPVan BPVan is offline
  8. Old Comment
    Jeff W's Avatar
    How about drilling and tapping a new port for your line? Or... I know the new owner of my old van modified the doghouse with a "bump" to allow room for an aftermarket a/c unit.
    Posted February 21st, 2011 at 08:17 PM by Jeff W Jeff W is offline
  9. Old Comment
    BPVan's Avatar
    I thought about a "bump" or a box with rounded corners. I started laying out where the seat ends, where to cut, and how much i would need but my biggest issue is modifying the lid. The "bump" would pretty much have to reach the top of the dog house. I then thought about raising the sides another 3" to have enough height to bring the bump back in so the mating surface of the lid maintains the right shape. Then I thought "I'm getting crazy with this".

    My first step is to get the dimensions of the Clifford equivalent intake, it looks slimmer in the photos. I will probably mock that and the carburetor up with cardboard to see how it will all fit.
    Posted February 21st, 2011 at 08:25 PM by BPVan BPVan is offline
  10. Old Comment
    BPVan's Avatar
    Progress is picking up, I should have some photos this weekend. I have the starter in, Drive Shaft, Transmission linkage, fly wheel cover, new motor mount hardware, Transmission dipstick/filler tube, and I swapped the bolts out on the Transmission bell housing. I also pulled the heater fan housing to clean it up and put the new core in.

    This weekend I should have the manifolds in, new throttle linkage, carburetor (Holley 8007) and all of the transmission and radiator coolant lines in. I am also starting the process of cleaning up the doghouse sides and touching them up.

    The next big step in completing this will be the misc. welding on the floor and the doghouse, an area where I am greener than the moss on the trees. Any tips/advice would be appreciated. I basically have 4 spots on the front floor that need to be cut and patched as well as a custom cut in the dog house to accommodate the wider intake manifold.
    Posted March 22nd, 2011 at 01:03 AM by BPVan BPVan is offline
    Updated March 22nd, 2011 at 01:06 AM by BPVan

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:04 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.