Still Waiting

Still waiting for the machine shop to push my little 170 through. Been working to freshen up some of the other odds and ends. Here are a few pictures of the progress!

Guy

Very nice work. I like your attention to detail. It's going to be pretty sweet when you're done. Keep us posted.

And I haven't forgotten about taking pictures of all that alternator swap stuff, just have had my hands full lately and need to round it all up for like 5 different stash locations. I know people here know how easy it is for me to loose track of things in my mess of parts. This week for sure I'll focus on that for you.

Hey, believe me, I am in no hurry, just whenever is fine.

Put a few pictures up on my progress. One front bumper bracket, before & after, a number I found scrolled on the drivers side inner cowl skirt between the rear splash shield and the front of the door. Any ideas? Be nice to know something, I'm leaving it on there.

Took the splash shields off and cleaned all of the old undercoating from the passengers side today. Worked from 9AM to noon, hafe day. I am amazed, ON RUST anywhere so far. How do the new splash shields install? I saved all of the staples but there must be a better way!

Guy

When I replaced the splash shields on my wagon (same deal) I used 3M adhesive to first glue them on after cleaning them all off and repainting them. The new seals come with staples, but I found heavy paper clips to be a better match.

I have not looked to see if they changed these staples for the better on the Ranchero I am doing, but once the rubber was adhered I then took a drill the right size and drilled the original holes and then through the new rubber. I then installed the hand-made staples and folded them over like to originals. Gluing the splash should have been enough for function, but the staples were not hard to add too.

All Auto makers put their marks on things. On concours restorations you are supposed to duplicate all these marks or face losing points. They meant things to them, back then, but what they mean is probably lost in antiquity. Probably an assembler ID. Like the tags in pants that say "Inspected by #14"

Hey, thanks for the reply.

Finding out a few things that might help others on their restorations:

I'm using PB Penetrating Catalyst to soften the undercoating on the inner wheel wells. It is cheap and works unbelievably well.

Got a Master Cyclinder from Napa, #M32900, and it is exactly the same as the original, down to the gold colored cap.

Got a new radiator from Napa too, #2300. It looks exactly as the original and carries a life time warranty on defects. It is made in China but does look original. Dearborn sells their replacement radiator for $399 and the one from Napa was $199.

I hope I'm not breaking any club rules with this information, but only what to help other Falcon fans. Please let me know if this information is out of line.

Picture of passengers side wheel well, stripped of its old undercoating and ready for sandblasting.

May go down to the junkyard today to try and find a good exhaust manifold, Dearborn wants $140 for theirs. I need to look for those engine bay rubber plugs too.

Good morning everybody,
Guy

Guy - Not breaking the rules at all. Any information to help someone get theirs done is alright by us.

One thing we high advocate and suggest you consider (it is so easy to do, it is almost foolish not to) is to swap the single fruit-jar master cylinder for a dual master cylinder from like a 67 Mustang. We have threads on this forum going through the details. We feel, as a club, the importance is so great we even have a kit we put together so any member who buys the master cylinder - we'll install it. Huge safety benefit. Obviously we can't do yours, since you are not here, but the parts to do it are maybe $10 more than going stock and really just about as much work - give or take about 20 minutes.

Looking good though! [thumb]

Good Morning

Does anyone know were to get the rubber grommets for the engine bay? Mine are in bad shape and will have to be replaced. Removing all of them to get ready to sandblast the engine bay, (got to make a new home for that peeped up 170), I found two different sizes. I was going to remove the engine bay wiring from the firewall but could not figure out how. I looked for a screw holding it in place under the hood but there is one. Can you guys tell me how do the two connections seperate?

Speaking of the 170, the machine shop had to go .040 over because of cyclinder run out. Still don't know when I will get her back, but with the engine bay restoration I am in no hurry.

Guy

Nice work! Keep us in mind - I haven't dived into the engine bay yet, but the time isn't too far away.