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Looks like Duplicolor is it.
Speaking of the manifold...I recall Kenny's challenges and him going to ceramic...but I think it was $200 or so? Has anybody ever tried the POR stuff? http://www.por15.com/HIGH-TEMP_p_104.html $25 for a can.
It says it can handle 1200 degrees. (Painted on a freshly media blasted surface.)
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I have. Looks good for a little while. Even high-heat paint good for 1400 degrees (both Duplicolor and VHT brands have been tried by me) looks good for a while. Finally paid to have them ceramic coated and no regrets so far. Knock on wood.
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OK, thanks for the warning. Do you know if the stock color for the exhaust manifold flat black? I might get a chance to take this thing over to Auburn Performance coatings this week and see what they charge. I don't see anything about the color of these on the falcon rules page.
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The stock exhaust manifold was plain cast iron. Nothing painted. They may have painted the motor with the manifold attached, but the paint burned off before anyone took delivery. It's only us-guys into auto restoration want the forever good-looking manifold. For that... business's have emerged to fill our need. I consider the rattle-can direction to be the quick fix.
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Christmas showed up at 9:30 today. I can't wait to get home to open the plastic.:D
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Would have hated to be that UPS delivery guy...
So? How's it look!
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Burning the candle at both ends trying to get out for the holidays...didn't get all the way in, just opened the outer bag....it looks, incredibly new and clean looking. Hard to believe it's the same engine!
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So...getting everything ready for painting...and have another one of those dumb questions...Do I paint over the freeze plugs? (all new and already installed.):WHATTHE:
Looked at different forums online and it seems like the answers are about 50/50!
Roger and Gene...I hope the engine install went well. I know it's not a falcon, but I think we'd all like to see some pictures if you have a chance.
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Don,
It has been done both ways for years, so most don't think it through. I always install them after paint - for two reasons. One, if I use the brass block plugs (these are the ones that corrode first, so brass resists this type of failure) and I just simply like the looks of them - even when you can't see them later. Two, they have to be able to move. One can assume if the water freezes behind them they'll move no matter what, but the paint may act as a resistance (albeit small) to this movement. I doubt it will stop them from popping if ice forms and as such I think you'll be fine.
Thanks for taking the effort to make that hoist available last moment. I intended to bring the leveler, but couldn't find it. Found it Saturday still wrapped in the white plastic bag you delivered to me in.
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Yea, I called S&J early this morning about it and they said paint them or not doesn't matter...Now I have a decision to make. They are brass and look really cool actually...I'll try to get some pictures up this weekend before I paint...
Nice engine by the way...and some fancy photography too! Looking forward to the updates next week.
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Remember that pic of the dipstick tube? Well...it (the dipstick tube) didn't come back with the engine. :bicker:
It looks like falcon enterprises sells the dipstick tube (along with the dipstick)...just more money:WHATTHE:.after more money after more money...and every $20 bucks counts at this point.
If anyone happens to have one of these lying around in a junked engine laying in the corner I sure would appreciate the donation....
According to falconparts.com it's the same for all the 6cyl engines 1960 - 1970.
"1960-1970 6 CYLINDER OIL DIPSTICKS & TUBES
SKU: C2DZ-6750-B
This is the correct oil dipstick and tube which will fit all models of the 1960-1970 Ford Falcon & Mercury Comet equipped with a 6 cylinder engine. Unpainted as original."
[BOW]
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Hey Don I have an old block in my scrap pile that just might have that in it. I'll try to remember to look in the am. Do you need that little tube or the whole thing?
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I have the dipstick, I just need that little tube. I'm not sure how far it goes down inside...most grateful!!! [BOW]
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I'll let you know tomorrow. I'll write myself a sticky note and check it in the am before work. :D
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Why the heck would someone pull that out?
I'll look at the 200 that was in the Ranchero (block is cracked anyway) so if Steve doesn't, I probably do.
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Ok here is the one I pulled from my crap block. It looks longer than yours but you could easily cut it shorter. Of course I ran it throught the glass bead cabinet and here is a pic. I'll put it with Rogers wheels it's all your. :rocker:
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Don, Steve's looks the same as mine would look. Maybe a picture of the dipstick would help. Your tube seems to to have a rolled funnel shape, whereas ours are straight.
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I wonder if you could flare the end of mine. It's pretty soft material. If you get the right length I think it could be done.
Either way it's out and taped to Rogers spare tire carrier so someone is getting it. :)
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Oh yeah, I'm sure if it fits the hole and they didn't change that too it can be formed to match. That height above the block is now an unknown (unless there are others reading this that has one they can measure for Don).
Just curious, Steve, what did it take to remove? Did it just pull out or did you use a drift and drive it out from within the block?
Still see no reason why it would have needed to be removed...
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Just clicked on a set of vise grips twisted it in a circle and it pulled right out.
Easy peasy japanesey. :D
No saws all needed.
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With a new rebuild I would just put a plug in that hole. No reason for it to need oil between changes... why check it.;:)
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Maybe you're right Jeff, I'm sure this thing will all be perfect the first time.:shift:
This tube looks like, well...just a tube. It's pretty simple that's for sure. Steve say's there's a stop inside the engine so it won't go too deep...but it seems like the height outside the engine is critical. If anyone out there has a '61 144 and a ruler...I would sure appreciate a measurement of how much sticks up.
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Anyone willing to share the trick for getting the old grease seal out of the timing cover without screwing up the cover? I can't seem to find anything to catch on to very well with a screw driver or a punch. :NERVOUS: See pics..
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Send it over and I'll pop it out with my seal removal tool.
Pop down to an auto zone with the cover and they will have the tool. Usually you can rent the tool very cheap. It looks like a pry bar but has a hooked end on both sides. One to get inside the lip of the seal and the other one to rock it on.
I think you need that powder coated blue anyway. :D
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Yea, I've got one of those, but it seems like there's nothing to hook it on to here. What am I missing?
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I usually jam mine in where that spring is. Usually the spring rips out first then you have a nice channel to hook it to.
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For what it's worth I've driven out dozens of these with just the hairy edge of a drift punch. There is just enough edge of the seal to grab a punch. You can also try a small chisel set on edge. Support the back side with a tuna can to minimize the flex of the cover. These are not Loctite'd in place and once they give they drive out pretty easily. And once they move even just a little, there is even more area to drive against.
I have a nice powder coated cover Steve did for me, so if you do irreparable damage to yours, you can have it1. But I don't think you will.
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Well, it took a roll of masking tape and a sharp chisel and it went just like you said it would. [BOW][BOW]
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Btw Roger, thanks for the backup timing cover offer. Now you got me wondering if I should have powder coated mine. I think ill spray it, but still trying to decide if I should spray it off (without the screws) or on, and spray over the screws and gasket...or...it looks pretty good in natural too. Anyone know what color this was originally? It doesn't seem to be mentioned on the falcon "rules" page. Mine was partially painted.