Looks good from here Larry. Almost looks like you should be able to drive it away. You're gonna have a lot of fun when you do... that I can foresee. What a great color too. How can anyone not want one of those... when they look like that.
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Looks good from here Larry. Almost looks like you should be able to drive it away. You're gonna have a lot of fun when you do... that I can foresee. What a great color too. How can anyone not want one of those... when they look like that.
Man, that canary yellow just EXPLODES ! Absolutely AWESOME ! [BOW]
First I have a question. I am getting ready to install the front wing window frames and windows but it looks like from what I can gather out of the book that I should install the door handles and mechanisms first??? A couple of pictures of where I am now. Just installed the left hand trim and rear trim and trunk lock.
Cant wait to see what it looks like outside......
You are doing great work Larry
Beautiful work. I can't wait till mine gets that far!!!:rocker:
Larry,
I assume this is going to be exactly like the Mustang I did... a pain. You got to think in layers and make sure you don't cover up something you need to have in first. I think the door handle mechanism and rod should be in... as I recall -- and the window regulator. The adjustment for the angle of the wing window relative to the door is pretty critical as is the fore-aft adjustments. You should have the upper weatherstipping in too. The back windows are equally fickle to install and align.
If you want me to swing by sometime this weekend to show you the procedure (if you've not already figured it out... I am a bit slow catching up on the forum this week), just let me know. I am, as you know, 10 minutes away at most.
And as for what I'm seeing above.. [BOW]
Well it doesn't look like I have everything I need to rebuild the window frames. Thought I got it all ordered from Dennis Carpenter but I evidently forgot to order the channel material that runs along the front edge of the front window. I am attaching a couple of pictures of what I need. It is the long channel that has the felt on three sides of the channel. I went to the Carpenter catalog and I can't for the life of me figure out what the part number is that I need. If anyone has ordered these I would appreciate the help figuring it out. It looks like the part number I need is on page 93 and is U-7021550-Y526 or -3C1, but the widths they show are 5/8" and my part measures 1/2" wide. Also, I can't read the other measurements they show. Then I would assume when I get that channel with the felt I have to rivet on the part that is at the lower end of that channel from the old part to the new part?
Roger I can promise you I will be begggggggging for your help as soon as I get this frame back together and ready for installation procedures. Thanks very much, Larry
It's been a looong time since I did mine but I got them from a place called Restoration Specialties & Supply
http://www.restorationspecialties.com/
The website is a little low tech but if you follow the links you can get a PDF of their catalog and they have a lot of hard to find stuff.
And you do have to drill out the old rivets on that bottom piece and reuse it.
That's called the Division Bar - WE161 in Dearborn's catalog ($49.95 a pair). I can't find it at all in the Dennis Carpenter catalog.
Well, with a lot of information from the club, my son, and anybody else who would listen I finally got the wiring done except for the transmission backup and neutral safety switch wires. That will be worked on tomorrow. Installed the instrument panel, switches, and old radio, (not going to hook it up, just for looks). Installed a new CD/Radio in the glove box. Got the glove box door on as good as I can get it to fit. Pain in the rear.
Installed the steering column, and wheel. Oh, yeah, still have to wire the 14 wires to the column.
Congratulations. And I assume you've tested all of those connections? :WHATTHE: ;)
Haven't checked a one. It could get kind of sparkly when I hook up the positive battery cable!!!!! Might get really exciting the first time I turn the ignition key.
Roger you mentioned you might stop by and give me some help on getting the steps lined out for installing the over door seals and trim. Would you be able to drop by this week for a short stop?
My brother is coming up here from Tucson on July 7th and we are going to fire the engine up then. Very excited and very nervous about that. Hope I can get all the glass and interior in by that time.
Larry- As soon as I hear from a friend about his son's league playoffs, so I know what days I'm free (I've missed every game so far and the kid's a bit bummed I haven't made it out to see him yet), I'll call you and see what your schedule is.
Sparkly? Probably more like a massive smoke bomb. Hopefully everything has a fuse. You can use a fuse in the positive battery cable line (something like a 30-amp size) so that if something goes up in flame just by hooking up positive, it will be that and not a wire within a bundle of other wires.
That's what I was going to recommend, in-line fuse for everything at the test- maybe even use a 12 volt test light between the positive battery post and the positive terminal to be sure you don't have a dead short when everything is turned off.
Still lovin that yellow, it just NEVER gets old for me. Very nice lookin ride. Jon
Looking GREAT!
So, since I admittedly am an electrical genius (not). If I put the 12 volt test meter at the positive battery post and to the battery cable............. IF it shows ????? does it mean everything is OK?? and if it shows ??????? does it mean that everything sucks???? Roger, if you hear a bunch of siresn my direction bring your fire extinguisher.
You wouldn't be testing for voltage - you'd be testing for current or amps flowing. Essentially, if all switches are open (nothing ON), there should be no current/amps flowing. Consider voltage as the water behind a dam and current as the water being released. Too much being released at once will probably cause damage, but a little just means a gate is open (or a switch is ON in your case).
So you take a voltmeter, set it to the highest (at first) AMPS setting and connect the red lead to the battery terminal and the black lead to the cable terminal and watch the meter. It should show very little current flow. Something like .03amps if I recall correctly. Just to be on the safe side, reverse the leads and check with the cable the other direction -- I can't remember which was the current flows though the meter.
Another even more simple test is to take a light bulb in a socket with two wires, one for ground and one for the bulb terminal. Connect this BETWEEN the the battery terminal and the cable. If the bulb glows at all, current is flowing. If it glows very brightly, a lot of current is flowing.
In both of these tests there is still no indicator as to whether it is a short, or something is just in the ON position somewhere. This is why using a fuse (you can start small and work your way up to a large fuse) to see if there is an actual short, which would draw a LOT of current. A small fuse will blow fast and if you can make it all the way up to a 30-amp fuse without one blowing, you maybe won't need me to call the fire department.
Also, looks like the earliest I can make it over is either after work on Friday or early (not too early) on Saturday. Which works best for you?
It is ironic that I needed to do the same type of test and happened to come across this thread...I don't want to steal the thread but perhaps my question will help the other fellow.....just in case he finds the same thing.
I hooked up a test light like what was suggested....when I first touch the point end of the light to the battery terminal I see a faint light flash on then off right away...then nothing....I open the door for the under dash light and the test light comes on...
Is it normal for the test light to come on for an instant then off....or does it mean a drain?
Also....I never thought I would like a yellow falcon but this one looks exceptionally nice and can't wait for the opportunity to see it in person...looks like it is being done right and will be (actually is) pretty dang sweet.
Thanks
Hal
In my eperience that initial tiny flash is normal. Your whole wiring harness, compoents and whatnot act like a giant capacitor. It doesn't take much current flow to cause the test light to glow for a split second. The tiny surge while the harness, alt, and other things "charge up" may cause that flash.
Jeff and others....thanks for the info...Larry, good luck on your wiring...when this is over you will be dang near an expert.
Hal
Well, I got the side glass all installed and adjusted. Finished up the headliner and windlace along the edge of the headliner and put the fuzzies in. Lots of other little odds and ends finished.
Supposed to get the windshield and back glass installed soon, maybe this week. Then I can start the interior.
My brother is flying up from Tucson on the July 7th and we are going to try and start the engine. Then hopefully drive it to Snohomish (loudly) and get the exhaust installed.
Putting in some very long days trying to get this done before the end of July so I can take it to Reno. Think I will make it!!!???!!!.
Oh, I ordered the Chrome Paint Kit that is listed in Rogers interior thread for my grill. It doesn't look very good right now. I will let you all know how it comes out. Larry
Very nice; It must feel good to be getting this close to driving it again!!
Larry is seeing the light at the end of the tunnel! Keep up the good work
Before I could install the interior I needed to finish the trunk surrounds that I fabricated. Wouldn't be able to access the amplifier for hookups with the rear seat in. It looks ok, but for some reason when I close the trunk the fwd corners, at the hinge locations bow up just a little. Not sure why because I did all the fab work and fitting with the trunk on and closed for fit. I will either have to remove the small little hinge covers and temp install them for shows or rework them. UGH. The trunk looks ok for the first work I've done fiberglassing.
Just an update on my 64.
Will not get it to the Hot August Nights in Reno this year. Got the car about 95% done and fired the engine up. Didn't have oil pressure and found the soft plug at the top of the block was missing so..........removed intake, installed plug and now have 70 lbs. of pressure AND a new oil leak that may be the rear main seal.
Will have to do a little (LOL) disassembly, so it will be in the garage while I am in Reno.
Oh, well. Nothing is easy so why should this part work out. The car isn't entered in Reno this year since I was on the 3000 car waiting list. Just wanted to take it along for fun driving. But it is entered for next year. Hope I get it done by then!!!!!............. So....
The bright yellow glow over the hill that was from the car now has a redish tint to the air from me being upset. Larry
And here I thought that all them sailors were having a great time when I saw that red hue on the horizon last night.
Quite a tough break there Larry. You could have still trailer'd it there and people could have still galked at it the entire way down. But I know, it would have been better to cruise it around.
Latest pictures of the 64. The exterior finished but, I still don't like the looks of the grill. So I am going to take it off and do more work on it. The engine has been fired up, and I was going to take it in to get the exhaust done. But, my neighbor told me his friend bought all the exhaust system on line and did it himself for a mustang. So, if anyone knows much about that process let me know.
The interior is finished except for the sill plates and kick panels. More to come.
It's looking real sharp Larry.
I have no doubt that you could install your own exhaust. A Mustang kit would be a good start. Are you planning for 2.25" or 2.5"? Long or shorty headers?
I plan on redoing my exhaust with 2.25" and reproduction hemi mufflers. I will start with the Flowmaster universal 2.25" kit and add a universal X pipe.
I need to use the 2.5. That is the size of the electric dump tubing. Send me all the info you can on where what to get. Thanks very much.
Get this tailpipe kit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLO-15807/
This will work from the muffler back. It's mandred bent and allows for quite a large muffler under the back seats. Remember that the gas tank is offset to the left so set the left side first and then the right. Use the bumber bolts for hanger locations.
Here is an X-pipe kit that you would connect to your header reducers. Attach mufflers to the output. This has nifty cutouts all ready to go.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BIG-53630FLT/
Mufflers are highly subjective. Here is a link that will show you all of the 2.5" offset/center oval and steel mufflers at Summit.
I just measured my car. It has the same tailpipes as above and there is room for up to a 22" overall length muffler.
You'll need a reducer from your headers to a 2.5" pipe. You'll also need some hangers - two at the rear and one on the x-pipe.
I had to go look at the car myself. It is the reflection of the yellow shining off the chrome. I think I am going to just leave it chromed intead of painting the black areas. Might change my mind later, but I think for now I like it.
Just a little bit more to go in the interior but just had to send out some photos. My "to do" list is getting very small now. That is if I can keep from adding more to it.
The engine is running but it is a little bit toooooooo loud. So I have it on my trailer and taking it to Snohomish Wednesday morning to get the exhaust installed. Didn't like the grill work, so pulled it off and sent it to Tucson to get it chrome plated. Gave up on getting it bright dip anodized. Those folks want more to do that then a NOS grill is worth.
Still have a few things to do. Still waiting on new sill plates, the material from Jake to finish the kick area below the rear seat and several odds and ends like wiring the tach, figuring out why the electric cooling fan doesn't work, etc.
Does a person ever get one of these things done??????????? Crap
Lookin' sweet Larry! I'm not sure if you ever get done but with a build like that you should get pretty close!! Looking forward to seeing it close up someday!
Yes... and then we take it apart again. :confused:Quote:
Does a person ever get one of these things done??????????? Crap
The fact that you've done most of this by yourself is amazing.
I hope the grille comes back to your liking and i also hope it is resilient to bending. That part still scares me a bit. Chrome, being so hard, is like glass -- it doesn't give well. I hope it will bend with the aluminum, which will get bent - trust me on that (mine already has and I've been ultra careful). Did they offer you any advice in this regard.
I am really worried about the chrome also. But it is only costing me $250 to get it plated so I can get that done four times for what they want to do the bright dip anodize.
When I talked to them about the denting concern he only stated that almost all the grills now are getting plated. Probably due to cost.
[yay]Hey bad bird, just thought you would like to see my friend's 64 it has a bad fast 289 and dual quads and a big solid lifter cam...yellow is wild....john h
That car is beautiful and really looks hot, but the hood scoop doesn't turn me on.
I like the looks of the hood in the picture I am attaching. This picture is the one that made me decide on yellow for my car.
I should get my car back from the exhaust folks tomorrow or Friday. I looked into putting the exhaust on my self but didn't want to fight through another major project.
I'll send pics of the installation soon I hope. Larry
A few pics of the exhaust system. I am really happy with the sound. Not too loud and not too quiet. The "E" cutout system works like a charm and the sound with it open is great.
The system is 2 1/2" with magna-flow mufflers. I didn't want the tail pipes to come out the back behind the bumper and I also wanted the system to be as inconspicuous as possible, blending in to the undercarriage.
Now to work off my single page list of "final" things to do. (probably come up with another "final list" off of that work, or two).