Roger, CS could get the pump for you.
Printable View
Roger, CS could get the pump for you.
Ok guys, It was honey do's tonight (especially since my wife can't lift much yet) so I can focus on falcon stuff tomorrow. By the way, did I mention that the hospital bill was $47,000! :doh: That doesn't even include the surgeon. Looks like after insurance I have to pay out $4000 regardless. Fortunately my wife is priceless.:D That's another two months of work before retirement (15 years from now at this rate).
Roger-
I'll check the hole sizes and screws for the mirrors tomorrow. Do I need any special kind of bit? I was thinking about buying a couple new ones to make sure they are sharp.
Yes, the cam is freshly machined so looks like we will be breaking that in.
I did order a cigar element from Melvins (and it came in.) Looks great.
Muffler guy didn't answer the phone today...yes I do have the pipe on and it goes back to the gas tank. The pipe is 1.75" diameter outside if you want to bring your cherry bomb!
A good Volt meter- I have always used my Grandfathers may tag volt meter and find it works great.:D (of course I usually only use it to read volts...nothing fancy) That would be kind of cool if we could use it. Pic attached. If we need a better one however, I can borrow one from work or bring yours if you are used to it.
I have a 25' roll of brake line. I have a new (never used it) bending and flare kit but do we need some kind of tool to make this stuff straight?
Do we need an oil pressure gage?
Kenny
Really excited that you are coming! :3g::3g:
I will play with the size and buy some fritting tomorrow. Looks like Amazon has some pretty cheap. The letters on the 1961 hub caps were white. I was wondering what specific flavor of white I should buy. Any thoughts? The roof is corinthian white but I'm not sure I'll be able to find that.
Phil? Any thoughts on the white? I'll look at paints at the parts stores later this week.
I feel like a kid getting ready for xmas day. [BOW]
Really sorry I'm not gonna be there for the big day. Watching you (through this Forum) brings back the same memories to me. I enjoyed LOTS of help from these guys, and SO much appreciate all they've done. So... I'll be thinking of you all day.
That is a very cool volt meter. Make sure the battery is good (used mostly for ohms side) and we'll use it just fine.
I would use Rustoleum satin white for the letters. You can get it anywhere and it is durable as heck. Takes hours to dry, but the finish is not flat - and not ultra shiny... and will last a long time. I rarely use primer with it and have never had it come off as long as it is cleaned with Acetone before spraying. But etching primer won't hurt.
I'll measure the glass-pack, but just danging it on the pipe will make the run-time more tolerable.
OK on the cam. This means it needs to run right and long the first time. Usually a good 20 minute run needs to be possible to fully break-in and harden the cam lobes.
I have a few oil pressure gauges in my gauge bin. We should plumb one in to make sure you have oil pressure. You can then shift over to the dash system later.
So you have no brake lines in right now? If so, that's a lot of bending, but I have benders too I can bring. It unfurls straight enough without much help... usually.
The Thread-sert tool is like a pop-rivit gun, but inserts threads - not sheet-metal thread, but machine screw threads. I pop in a pair of 10-32 thread-serts and then make sure to have long enough SS screws for the mirror, plus a 1/2" more.
Will be watching the thread closer in case there is other stuff to bring.
I will bring my tube benders, tube cutters, double flaring tool, bench bleeder set, and whatever else crosses my pea brain. Hope you have several brake tube fittings. Larry
I've always found that step bits make very true, round holes in sheet metal where a standard bit can sometimes end up out of round. I'll can bring my set if you want but let me know what size so I can see if I have it. If the holes are small then a nice, sharp titanium bit will do just as well.
I'll bring all of my brake line tools, scrap line, fittings, and a few diagnostic tools. I might be there more like 10:00 but I'll be caffeinated and ready to go!!
Wow great progress. Is the big day this Saturday? I'll bet your itching to hear it purr again.
I've been swamped at the shop but have been tuning in and keeping track.
Can't wait to see the pics and posts from the fire up. Good luck with everything maybe if I get my work done I'll sneak out of town?!?
:D[yay]:3g:
I do have the brake fittings. 10 of the small ones (I think 8 are required), and I do have the two for the double MC that Jeff gave me and confirmed they fit. I also have the two T's.
Wheel cylinders - I ended up buying 3 new brake hoses because the ones I bought 2 years ago...after scoring them with brake fluid left on them corroded badly. So...I decided to stick my head down there close enough to get a pic of the female fitting on one of the wheel cylinders...and I saw what is in the picture. When I installed them they were a bit corroded, but I think think it was this bad. No idea what it might be like inside, but my biggest concern is that it doesn't leak. This one in the pic is from the front. I have already had the back ones hooked up wo the rear brake line for a while. Do you guys think I am just being paranoid and these are ok? (Where's Jeff...club safety officer but also spend thrift....need your advice Jeff.)
Plug for the manifold - A While back I asked if anyone knew where I can find a plug for the manifold. I have looked everywhere for this thing and I can't seem to find one that fits. In the pic, the two on the top don't fit. What was in there (didn't come back with the block) looked like the one 2nd from top. The fitting on the bottom of the picture fits...but it's a 1/2-20 thread 5/16 tube fitting with a big hole in the middle...I can't seem to find this in a plug. Anyone have any ideas? I have probably spent $25 and several hours trying to find one of these that fits.
The mirror screws rivet inserts Phil gave me are the last pic attached. I emailed Phil and asked for a reminder of how to install these...he mentioned it a few posts back..but I'm not completely clear.
Anyone have a 0.1 A barrel fuse 1/4" by 1 1/4" laying around? I can order them, but have to buy 5 for about $15 with shipping. This is for my multimeter.
Also- door panel clips? I seem to be short about 8 of them. I know Orilieys has them...but it's another tripand probably $13 if anyone has extra they can save me.
Kenny- the screw fittings look like they fit in either a 15/16 hole or a 1/4" hole. Do you have a step bit that size?
Last but not least....any one have 4 of those black male bullet connectors? I need 4 for the tail lights.
Roger- I'm seeing the rustoleum automotive paint in gloss white or semi-gloss while but not satin white. Do you think they now call satin white semi-gloss white? http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-252.../dp/B003CT4ADO
I've got a kit of fittings and tee's. I'll bring them just to reduce the chance of having to waste time running around.Quote:
I do have the brake fittings. 10 of the small ones (I think 8 are required), and I do have the two for the double MC that Jeff gave me and confirmed they fit. I also have the two T's.
I think even Jeff would agree, you don't spend-thrift on brakes. They look a little yucky in there, but it may just be from a dusty garage. It might be 15 minutes per wheel to pull those and make sure what you have - which we can work on, our leave it for you to do if we don't get that far.Quote:
Wheel cylinders -Do you guys think I am just being paranoid and these are ok? (Where's Jeff...club safety officer but also spend thrift....need your advice Jeff.)
Can you post a picture of the hole (again)? I'm not aware of any special thread types on a 60's Falcon. Most will be 1/8" or 1/4" pipe thread. Maybe your hole is one of these and someone forced the wrong fitting in and that's causing you the grief. I have a few plugs of varying sizes - and pipe thread taps. I'll bring all of that too. If the hole is vacuum, we got to plug it somehow. Maybe a cork. :NERVOUS:Quote:
Plug for the manifold
Those look like 10-24, which is fine. I have to tool to fit that size too. You'll like that tool.Quote:
The mirror screws rivet inserts Phil gave me are the last pic attached. I emailed Phil and asked for a reminder of how to install these...he mentioned it a few posts back..but I'm not completely clear.
I have a lot of old multimeters I got from my Dad. Will see if any have a fuse that small. I may too as well.Quote:
Anyone have a 0.1 A barrel fuse 1/4" by 1 1/4" laying around? I can order them, but have to buy 5 for about $15 with shipping. This is for my multimeter.
I have many. Will bring them.Quote:
Also- door panel clips?
As mentioned, I've got step drill bits in my Thread-sert kit. Bringing them.Quote:
...a 15/16 hole or a 1/4" hole. Do you have a step bit that size?
I have a huge assortment of bullet connectors. Will bring that kit too.Quote:
...black male bullet connectors? I need 4 for the tail lights.
I have a couple cans I think. Will bring one and donate it. I get the Satin stuff (like the 7777 Satin Black) from Home Depot. The cans call out the name SATIN in large letters, so this is a main product line and is different than what you are seeing.Quote:
Do you think they now call satin white semi-gloss white? http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-252.../dp/B003CT4ADO
My car will be packed it sounds like! [thumb]
Roger, I'm really humbled by all the help. [BOW][BOW]
Attached is a pic of the hole I'm trying to plug. I'm sure with your help we will figure it out.
Added...also a pic of the plug that used to be there.
fyi, my multimeter actually works fine as-is...I rigged it with a piece of foil over the old fuse a long time ago when I planned to get a new fuse at the store and never found one :o...and actually I THINK I just don't really use the features much that power through the fuse. Anyway, now that I had to buy some new fuses for the falcon, I have a whole drawer full of extras...but don't have this one of course, but since these were usually bought five at a time-I figured someone might have extra- but don't mess up another multimeter for me. I also have a cheap digital multimeter if we need it.
So, I managed to figure out how to take a half day off from work tomorrow to work on the falcon...if I can get the front suspension done I'll be a really happy guy. If I get stuck...I'll work on something else...
Surprisingly...three calls into my muffler guy and no call back yet...:bicker:
Carb lube- is there an particular lube that I should use to lube the choke mechanism at the carb? It seems really rough to work, but it's not the cable. It's the same without the cable.
I've got a lot of heads here (trying to decide what to do with) and so I'll check those holes. I suspect 1/4" NPT, so will bring that tap and a plug and we'll clear out the hole if it is - vacuum in hand - and plug the hole. Won't run well with it like it is.
[thumb]
Use any good lube first just to see if it frees up. Probably some white lithium on any moving bits once it is free'd up.
Roger, I took a caliper to the hole in the manifold and came up with about .47 inches for the inside diameter of the hole, inside of the threads.
An update on yesterday...I knew I had a problem with the Passenger lower control arm slid too far back on the bushing- it was causing the control to interfere with the car and the suspension not to move much. I thought it was strange that I would not have centered the bushing- but took the arm it out to straighten it and realized it has slid because the control arm is bent.
:doh::doh::doh::doh::doh::doh::doh::doh:(I think it will only let me do 8 of these!)
This arm was "dinged" from the accident, but it appears I made it worse when I replaced the bushing. Pic attached (of me holding it up in the car today) - the bushing should essentially be parallel to the bar on the control arm so you can see how bent it is. I took it to a small body shop and also to another shop that looks like they have a lot of classic car experience to see if they might be able to straighten it (or even straighten it and weld a brace in the middle)......neither one would touch it. Darn- I lost half a vacation day for this.
If you remember a ways back in the thread...I bought replacements for these control arms early on- but it turns out (even though it incorrectly says they should fit a 61) they don't fit. The ball joint stem is too big for the female side in the 61 spindle. So...I thought I would throw it out to think about. I do have a hydraulic press I can get out of storage, but I'm not confident I can get it back. The only lower control arm I found on ebay is a supposedly NOS and they want almost $200. (and I would probably still want to replace the bushing without messing it up!) I'm wondering if there is any way to change the post on the ball joint for the previous ones I bought before?? I suppose not...
Meanwhile...Roger, pics of the tags from the engine attached for your reading pleasure...I think you know what all this stuff actually means.
I'm feeling so far over my head today...
The weather doesn't look horrible tomorrow...Kenny- look forward to you seeing you at 10. I did find that reduction of the file to 22% seems to match the font size on the hubcaps...Larry and Roger what time do you plan on arriving? and did all of you get my Pm with the address ok?