Soaked it in penetrating oil per your advice and off it came this morning with a reasonable hand whack to it. Thanks as always! [BOW]
Any recommendations on what adhesive to use when I put it back on?
Printable View
Soaked it in penetrating oil per your advice and off it came this morning with a reasonable hand whack to it. Thanks as always! [BOW]
Any recommendations on what adhesive to use when I put it back on?
I didn't use any product to seal when reinstalling. It probably wouldn't hurt to use a little gasket sealer on the tube before inserting. I wouldn't smear it in the hole as you don't want extra to get pushed into the engine... probably.
I just check my manual and also could not find mention of sealant. Interestingly in section 4-1 here is a pretty good description of how the Vent Tube works. It actually depends on the motion of the car causing a partial vacuum in the tube and this pulls inside air out, with fresh air being drawn in through the filtered filler cap in the valve cover. Since the air is being sucked out through that tube rather than the internal pressure on the engine pushing it out, there may be little need for sealant in that area. That is unless your rings are worn or you do a lit of idling.
They even have a little diagram with arrows showing the flow or air through a cross section of the engine.
Glad the tube came out.
New, it was pretty tight. You would do well to apply s bead of silicone gasket adhesive when putting it back in. It should be sealed enough to keep it from oozing internal oil fumage.
Got it. It is pretty interesting how that vent system actually works. So many things like this were so simple back then. The wind guard on the carb also amazes me..
Next question!
I had my son take a few pictures (Attached) of the numbers on the side of the block AFTER I already had it on the pallet (while I held the block up [don't worry his head was not under there]). Then when I looked at the pictures later, I noticed the fitting for the oil dipstick is still on the block. Is this something I should have removed and need to worry about getting back from the engine guys? If so, I better give them a heads up.
The engine is still here but it would be a job getting to that at some point.
Don, I'd leave them. A machine shop should have no problem cleaning and reconditioning the motor with those on there.
I wonder when the last time someone lifted that oiler cap and squirted oil in there?...
Oops, never mind. The second picture looked like one of those oil fillers with the spring-loaded cap. Upon a second look I see it is the same dipstick tube... just fuzzier. :rolleyes:
Yep, it's the dipstick tube. The inside of the engine looked amazingly good and clean I thought-it almost made me 2nd guess myself on the rebuild. Not much sludge at the bottom or anywhere. There was one broken plastic piece inside the bottom of the oil pan...almost looked like a rectangular plastic grommet broken into pieces. No idea where it would have come from.
Looks like my block is already done and will be back next week!
It's supposed to come back rust free and with a primer painted on it.
Any thoughts about what brand of engine paint to go with or to stay away from?
I have a can of the correct color duplicolor engine paint...anyone used that stuff?
That's perfect let it fly. And show us of course!
I use Duplicolor 99% of the time. It's been very consistent and durable.
That said I've not found any brand of "High Heat" paint to survive anything high heat, like exhaust manifolds. Even high-dollar Eastwood stuff. They all look good for the initial photograph, but then quickly burn away in normal use.
Looks like Duplicolor is it.
Speaking of the manifold...I recall Kenny's challenges and him going to ceramic...but I think it was $200 or so? Has anybody ever tried the POR stuff? http://www.por15.com/HIGH-TEMP_p_104.html $25 for a can.
It says it can handle 1200 degrees. (Painted on a freshly media blasted surface.)
I have. Looks good for a little while. Even high-heat paint good for 1400 degrees (both Duplicolor and VHT brands have been tried by me) looks good for a while. Finally paid to have them ceramic coated and no regrets so far. Knock on wood.
OK, thanks for the warning. Do you know if the stock color for the exhaust manifold flat black? I might get a chance to take this thing over to Auburn Performance coatings this week and see what they charge. I don't see anything about the color of these on the falcon rules page.
The stock exhaust manifold was plain cast iron. Nothing painted. They may have painted the motor with the manifold attached, but the paint burned off before anyone took delivery. It's only us-guys into auto restoration want the forever good-looking manifold. For that... business's have emerged to fill our need. I consider the rattle-can direction to be the quick fix.
Christmas showed up at 9:30 today. I can't wait to get home to open the plastic.:D