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Larry,
I assume this is going to be exactly like the Mustang I did... a pain. You got to think in layers and make sure you don't cover up something you need to have in first. I think the door handle mechanism and rod should be in... as I recall -- and the window regulator. The adjustment for the angle of the wing window relative to the door is pretty critical as is the fore-aft adjustments. You should have the upper weatherstipping in too. The back windows are equally fickle to install and align.
If you want me to swing by sometime this weekend to show you the procedure (if you've not already figured it out... I am a bit slow catching up on the forum this week), just let me know. I am, as you know, 10 minutes away at most.
And as for what I'm seeing above.. [BOW]
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Well it doesn't look like I have everything I need to rebuild the window frames. Thought I got it all ordered from Dennis Carpenter but I evidently forgot to order the channel material that runs along the front edge of the front window. I am attaching a couple of pictures of what I need. It is the long channel that has the felt on three sides of the channel. I went to the Carpenter catalog and I can't for the life of me figure out what the part number is that I need. If anyone has ordered these I would appreciate the help figuring it out. It looks like the part number I need is on page 93 and is U-7021550-Y526 or -3C1, but the widths they show are 5/8" and my part measures 1/2" wide. Also, I can't read the other measurements they show. Then I would assume when I get that channel with the felt I have to rivet on the part that is at the lower end of that channel from the old part to the new part?
Roger I can promise you I will be begggggggging for your help as soon as I get this frame back together and ready for installation procedures. Thanks very much, Larry
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It's been a looong time since I did mine but I got them from a place called Restoration Specialties & Supply
http://www.restorationspecialties.com/
The website is a little low tech but if you follow the links you can get a PDF of their catalog and they have a lot of hard to find stuff.
And you do have to drill out the old rivets on that bottom piece and reuse it.
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That's called the Division Bar - WE161 in Dearborn's catalog ($49.95 a pair). I can't find it at all in the Dennis Carpenter catalog.
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Well, with a lot of information from the club, my son, and anybody else who would listen I finally got the wiring done except for the transmission backup and neutral safety switch wires. That will be worked on tomorrow. Installed the instrument panel, switches, and old radio, (not going to hook it up, just for looks). Installed a new CD/Radio in the glove box. Got the glove box door on as good as I can get it to fit. Pain in the rear.
Installed the steering column, and wheel. Oh, yeah, still have to wire the 14 wires to the column.
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Congratulations. And I assume you've tested all of those connections? :WHATTHE: ;)
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Haven't checked a one. It could get kind of sparkly when I hook up the positive battery cable!!!!! Might get really exciting the first time I turn the ignition key.
Roger you mentioned you might stop by and give me some help on getting the steps lined out for installing the over door seals and trim. Would you be able to drop by this week for a short stop?
My brother is coming up here from Tucson on July 7th and we are going to fire the engine up then. Very excited and very nervous about that. Hope I can get all the glass and interior in by that time.
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Larry- As soon as I hear from a friend about his son's league playoffs, so I know what days I'm free (I've missed every game so far and the kid's a bit bummed I haven't made it out to see him yet), I'll call you and see what your schedule is.
Sparkly? Probably more like a massive smoke bomb. Hopefully everything has a fuse. You can use a fuse in the positive battery cable line (something like a 30-amp size) so that if something goes up in flame just by hooking up positive, it will be that and not a wire within a bundle of other wires.
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That's what I was going to recommend, in-line fuse for everything at the test- maybe even use a 12 volt test light between the positive battery post and the positive terminal to be sure you don't have a dead short when everything is turned off.
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Still lovin that yellow, it just NEVER gets old for me. Very nice lookin ride. Jon
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Wow!
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So, since I admittedly am an electrical genius (not). If I put the 12 volt test meter at the positive battery post and to the battery cable............. IF it shows ????? does it mean everything is OK?? and if it shows ??????? does it mean that everything sucks???? Roger, if you hear a bunch of siresn my direction bring your fire extinguisher.
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You wouldn't be testing for voltage - you'd be testing for current or amps flowing. Essentially, if all switches are open (nothing ON), there should be no current/amps flowing. Consider voltage as the water behind a dam and current as the water being released. Too much being released at once will probably cause damage, but a little just means a gate is open (or a switch is ON in your case).
So you take a voltmeter, set it to the highest (at first) AMPS setting and connect the red lead to the battery terminal and the black lead to the cable terminal and watch the meter. It should show very little current flow. Something like .03amps if I recall correctly. Just to be on the safe side, reverse the leads and check with the cable the other direction -- I can't remember which was the current flows though the meter.
Another even more simple test is to take a light bulb in a socket with two wires, one for ground and one for the bulb terminal. Connect this BETWEEN the the battery terminal and the cable. If the bulb glows at all, current is flowing. If it glows very brightly, a lot of current is flowing.
In both of these tests there is still no indicator as to whether it is a short, or something is just in the ON position somewhere. This is why using a fuse (you can start small and work your way up to a large fuse) to see if there is an actual short, which would draw a LOT of current. A small fuse will blow fast and if you can make it all the way up to a 30-amp fuse without one blowing, you maybe won't need me to call the fire department.
Also, looks like the earliest I can make it over is either after work on Friday or early (not too early) on Saturday. Which works best for you?
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It is ironic that I needed to do the same type of test and happened to come across this thread...I don't want to steal the thread but perhaps my question will help the other fellow.....just in case he finds the same thing.
I hooked up a test light like what was suggested....when I first touch the point end of the light to the battery terminal I see a faint light flash on then off right away...then nothing....I open the door for the under dash light and the test light comes on...
Is it normal for the test light to come on for an instant then off....or does it mean a drain?
Also....I never thought I would like a yellow falcon but this one looks exceptionally nice and can't wait for the opportunity to see it in person...looks like it is being done right and will be (actually is) pretty dang sweet.
Thanks
Hal
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In my eperience that initial tiny flash is normal. Your whole wiring harness, compoents and whatnot act like a giant capacitor. It doesn't take much current flow to cause the test light to glow for a split second. The tiny surge while the harness, alt, and other things "charge up" may cause that flash.