Bent rear axle shaft

When I was doing the rear brakes, I gave the axles a spin and found out my axle shafts are bent. The right side has about a 3/16" wobble to it, but the left side is a bit less than 1/8". (After some investigation...turns out one of my older cousins had some fun jumping rail road tracks in this car when he was younger...)
First, any advice on how much of a problem this is?

The bearings sounded dry anyway, so I was planning to replace them...and thought since I have to take the axles out anyway, I might as well replace the axles with straight ones...but I haven't been able to find any four bolt axles online.

I know a lot of you have changed to the five bolt and larger wheels...I do want to stick with the origional 4 bolt wheels- anyone know where I can find some good straight 4 bolt axles?

Thanks..

I have a spare rear axle from a car I parted out a while ago. Its yours if you want it. It's complete drum to drum 4 lug.

Do yourself a favor and replace the whole rear axle. The housing may have been tweeked, plus it is easier.

Agreed. I could load it in the trailer and bring it to the mini in woodland.

Sounds like an offer I can't turn down...I really, really appreciate that. What kind of condition is it in? and what gear ratio?
I was just trying to figure out when I could get over to your place to pick it up...but I'm booked out of town on family events for the next three weekends (and then my kids hockey season starts....)
When is the mini in woodland?, I can't seem to find the calendar of events.
Also, any thoughts on what I would need in order to get it home in the back of my SUV?

doghows......anything I need to do to make sure it will fit my 61?

It'll fit. They are all the same until 64 maybe late 63. Check out the post on the mini, I won't be making it this year.
I get over to Seattle often as do others make it over here. Maybe we can arrange a transfer?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dhbfaster

I know a lot of you have changed to the five bolt and larger wheels...

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Many of us have in-fact swapped to a Maverick/Comet 4-lug 8" axle to gain a lower gear and better parts availability. They are out there if you look hard enough. The 7.25" early Falcon rear-end is very hard to find parts for. You'd have to do a drive line swap with this conversion too, but you can keep your 4-lug wheels.

Well I picked up Steve's extra rear axle assembly at the final assembly party- today I finally jacked up the car and lined everything up (I was a little worried about the fit with the bigger brakes...that looks off by a tiny bit but ok) however, looks like the diffy itself is about 1 inch shorter from the front where the u joint is to center or back cover plate. As far as I can tell...that means it's a no-go.
When I spun the one from Steve, it was basicly quiet at the bearings though...mine is noisy- I think pretty much confirming my shaft bearings are either bone dry or have pressure on them. Any thoughts? Am I missing anything?
I saw an axle shaft on ebay...looks like I should go try to find it again.

The wider brake shoes from the wagon should not make any difference from the outside of drum to outside of drum. The wagons back plate should be offset (sort of dished) to allow the extra 1/2 of shoe.

Not sure about the input shaft difference. The splined yokes should be easy to swap but not sure exactly where your difference is coming from. I have not heard of this before.

Yea, the outside of the brakes line up exactly. The pads for the springs, extremely close. I used a square to measure from the end of the diffy housing behind the spindal to the mounting surface of the backplate cover. The one for the delivery is 8 & 3/4, the one for mine is 9 & 3/4. Maybe I should jack up the car a little further to make sure it's not compensated for someplace I can't see?
Sure looks to me like it's an inch short.

so if I understand this are you saying that your driveshaft would be too short?
I thought all the rear axles were the same as far as the drum to drum and yoke measurements??? Now I'm confused that is the rear end out of my 63 delivery. Anyone got more info on this??

You can bring the driveshaft to Drivelines NW and they can make it work. I had them shorten a driveshaft, weld yoke, balance, and install a u-joint kit for about $170. I'm guessing they can add length but don't know that for a fact.

I had that done to a car ('69 Ranchero) years ago. They replaced the entire tube between the yokes.

yes and yes Driveline NW Fife Washington does it and they replace the tube. Good people there.

Drivelines NW has 3 locations. Seattle, Fife and Everett.

Thanks all...Steve, you're correct, if my measurements are correct, there would be a 1" gap between the diffy hockup and the driveshaft.
Thanks all for the advice about drivelines NW too. Unfortunately I now have the seats out and the bumper and a few other things off the car....maybe I'll go ahead and take my old axle assy to them to evaluate first, and if they can't solve that easy enough then I'll ask about the newer one and whether or not they can make that work right. It'll probably be a few weeks...I'll let you guys know what they say.

I needed to add about 3" to my wagon driveline way-back-when. Instead of taking it to DLNW I decided to be cheap and do it myself. So I made a sleeve with an ID about the OD of my drivelive (-.001) and then cut my drive line after scribing it and the sleeve (to get it perfectly oriented). Then I drove the sleeve on one end about half-way and then onto the other until it was the length I needed. I then welded it while someone spun it by hand. I drove it that way for about 8 years until I put in my 8" rear end. I then took it to DLNW to get a larger end attached and they looked at it, somewhat dumbfounded, and said "How did that thing not require being balanced?" I shrugged and said, "Thin sleeve, good welding?

Anyway, they were very fast and fair priced. For the price I paid I was kicking myself... I would have never done what I did the first time if I'd have known. :doh:

My transmission guy which also does drive lines says if the shaft is straight after welding it doesn't need to be balanced, they mostly tell you that for the $$$$....jh