Would have hated to be that UPS delivery guy...
So? How's it look!
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Would have hated to be that UPS delivery guy...
So? How's it look!
Burning the candle at both ends trying to get out for the holidays...didn't get all the way in, just opened the outer bag....it looks, incredibly new and clean looking. Hard to believe it's the same engine!
So...getting everything ready for painting...and have another one of those dumb questions...Do I paint over the freeze plugs? (all new and already installed.):WHATTHE:
Looked at different forums online and it seems like the answers are about 50/50!
Roger and Gene...I hope the engine install went well. I know it's not a falcon, but I think we'd all like to see some pictures if you have a chance.
Don,
It has been done both ways for years, so most don't think it through. I always install them after paint - for two reasons. One, if I use the brass block plugs (these are the ones that corrode first, so brass resists this type of failure) and I just simply like the looks of them - even when you can't see them later. Two, they have to be able to move. One can assume if the water freezes behind them they'll move no matter what, but the paint may act as a resistance (albeit small) to this movement. I doubt it will stop them from popping if ice forms and as such I think you'll be fine.
Thanks for taking the effort to make that hoist available last moment. I intended to bring the leveler, but couldn't find it. Found it Saturday still wrapped in the white plastic bag you delivered to me in.
Yea, I called S&J early this morning about it and they said paint them or not doesn't matter...Now I have a decision to make. They are brass and look really cool actually...I'll try to get some pictures up this weekend before I paint...
Nice engine by the way...and some fancy photography too! Looking forward to the updates next week.
Remember that pic of the dipstick tube? Well...it (the dipstick tube) didn't come back with the engine. :bicker:
It looks like falcon enterprises sells the dipstick tube (along with the dipstick)...just more money:WHATTHE:.after more money after more money...and every $20 bucks counts at this point.
If anyone happens to have one of these lying around in a junked engine laying in the corner I sure would appreciate the donation....
According to falconparts.com it's the same for all the 6cyl engines 1960 - 1970.
"1960-1970 6 CYLINDER OIL DIPSTICKS & TUBES
SKU: C2DZ-6750-B
This is the correct oil dipstick and tube which will fit all models of the 1960-1970 Ford Falcon & Mercury Comet equipped with a 6 cylinder engine. Unpainted as original."
[BOW]
Hey Don I have an old block in my scrap pile that just might have that in it. I'll try to remember to look in the am. Do you need that little tube or the whole thing?
I have the dipstick, I just need that little tube. I'm not sure how far it goes down inside...most grateful!!! [BOW]
I'll let you know tomorrow. I'll write myself a sticky note and check it in the am before work. :D
Why the heck would someone pull that out?
I'll look at the 200 that was in the Ranchero (block is cracked anyway) so if Steve doesn't, I probably do.
Ok here is the one I pulled from my crap block. It looks longer than yours but you could easily cut it shorter. Of course I ran it throught the glass bead cabinet and here is a pic. I'll put it with Rogers wheels it's all your. :rocker:
Don, Steve's looks the same as mine would look. Maybe a picture of the dipstick would help. Your tube seems to to have a rolled funnel shape, whereas ours are straight.
I wonder if you could flare the end of mine. It's pretty soft material. If you get the right length I think it could be done.
Either way it's out and taped to Rogers spare tire carrier so someone is getting it. :)
Oh yeah, I'm sure if it fits the hole and they didn't change that too it can be formed to match. That height above the block is now an unknown (unless there are others reading this that has one they can measure for Don).
Just curious, Steve, what did it take to remove? Did it just pull out or did you use a drift and drive it out from within the block?
Still see no reason why it would have needed to be removed...
Just clicked on a set of vise grips twisted it in a circle and it pulled right out.
Easy peasy japanesey. :D
No saws all needed.