Hi Don, I replaced all the metal and rubber lines about three years ago when I converted to the new Dual Master Cylinder. They still look like new.
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Hi Don, I replaced all the metal and rubber lines about three years ago when I converted to the new Dual Master Cylinder. They still look like new.
Sandblasted the front brake backing plates tonight. If I keep picking away at this, maybe it will be back on the road in a few weeks.
I think I am going to clean up and reuse the existing coil spring perch like Don did. Mine also has the brass bushing with grease fitting. I think this will be better than the cheap rubber bonded bush I bought as replacements.
Jeff,
I still have the special Tool i bought on eBay for reinstalling the coil springs. if you want it let me know. It was quite a battle but with that thing I finally won the war.
I always thought those brake backing plates are kind of an Art Deco work of art. (Strange taste?) they’re beautiful when sand blasted, and I powdered those myself too. They came out amazing.
Thanks for the offer Don. I have a couple of different compressors here I will try first.
UPS brought me an early birthday present today... 1-1/8” sway bar.
Upgrade while I’m at it.
My spring perches are the grease-able bronze bushing type. I will be cleaning these up to reinstall.
Very nice Jeff! And sorry I've spread that disease I have. Even without a garage to work in I find I still have it. It helps to have friends who enable you, as well.
Here are the pieces for today’s puzzle... and a little help.
Nice Jeff...what’s the Scott Drake part in the red package?
It looks like the grease fitting set and tool for the upper control arms. Best guess. I'm curious what the flat plate are above the drums? don't recognize them at all.
Jeff - did you get the Shelby drop holes drilled?
And you have an amazing helper Jeff. How he's able to levitate the car while sitting on a wall at the same time is an amazing feat!
This picture will answer both questions. The Scott Drake package (Roger is correct) are the tight 90 degree grease fittings for the upper control arms.
The tin plates are just guards to keep road funk from filling the cavity bending the sale control arm. I had to modify them slightly due to the Shelby (Arning) drop modification.
I do have a problem where the Drag link purchased a few years ago is 1-1/2” too long. My old is 24” and the replacement is 25-1/2”.
Loo much time has passed to make a complaint. I hope to find what this longer one fits so I can recoup some of my money on eBay. These are not cheap.
My old one feels very tight so I am going to replace the rubber boots and reuse for now.
I don’t know why my pictures are turning 90degrees. Sorry for that.
Fastest brake job ever. Back plates preloaded, just bolt on.
I am using the old drag link and will get a new one next year when I pull the engine and steering box for rebuild. With everything else new, it should be a big improvement.
I removed 1/4” if shims from behind each upper control arm per Shelby Drop instruction. Them can fine tune when I get it in to Truline for alignment.
That 1-1/8” sway bar sure looks good and was easy to install.
Stopping for a coffee break before I change the hub bearing and races, install hubs, drums, bleed the brakes and get it around the block for a test.
I need to get that parking spot clean for a graduation party for my oldest. Deadline is looming.
I suspect it is a Mustang link. Probably the same part number off by a letter.
And those plates were stock? Interesting. But stuff could still get under them and you could never clean them (easily) and maybe rot out the front rail. Or not. It was a CA car and now a WA car, but we're the next CA, weather wise, I hear.
You are probably correct, but it was pretty clean under those plates. I reinstalled and hope it continues the same protection for the next 55 years.