Any thoughts on replacing sections of rusty floor pans?
Cut to exact size and butt weld... or cut large overlap and inch or so? If you overlap have you welded from both sides or just seam seal the "raw" side.
What gauge steel?
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Any thoughts on replacing sections of rusty floor pans?
Cut to exact size and butt weld... or cut large overlap and inch or so? If you overlap have you welded from both sides or just seam seal the "raw" side.
What gauge steel?
Oh... I have lots of thoughts... none of them good. :doh:
I've done it both ways. I find the overlap method to be the easiest and you can then do a simple spot-weld method to put it in and use seam sealer on top and undercoating (the thick brush on stuff) underneath. It'll outlast any of us if the car's taken care of. Doing stitch welding of every inch is very time consuming and you have to move from side to side and minimize the weld sections to about 2" per side to keep warpage to a minimum. It's a floor, so it's not that critical, but all the more reason to do it the easier way. As for metal, get the repop pans if you can.
Butt weld them if you have the welding skills. Otherwise, a 1/2" lap joint will work. Weld from the top and seal from the bottom. Use 18g steel or buy whole floor sections depending on the amount of rust. I replaced a toe board on mine with a repop version. The quality was bad and I could have done better forming it from new steel.
I've also done that both ways as well -- making my own and buying repop pans. Repops are usually "bad" if you're hoping they will fit in perfect (and they never do), but there are a lot of compound curves in a floor and personally I think it's far easier to massage bad repops to fit than it is to make them from scratch using totally flat sheetmetal. Of course there are also a few different places making these things. Our Falcon stuff isn't as refined, as say, those made for the Mustang.
I have a full set of right and left full length floor pans from Dearborn Classics that I got for a Falcon years ago but sold the car before I used them that I'd be willing to sell if you're looking for a set.
Roger,
Thanks for assuming that I think that repop pans fit perfectly :rolleyes:. I've been doing this for a while and know that they don't. The part I bought looked like someone took a flat piece of steel and bent a curve into it over a piece of pipe. It really was a peice of crap. Your mileage may very.
Actually, I don't know what I was thinking. Sorry if that came across the wrong way. I'm just typing faster than I'm thinking at the moment since I'm a little behind on posting... but of course mileage really does vary. I've purchased some pans that fit really well, and some that look like the one you mention. Unfortunately not everyone is like you or I who can do it either way, so for most people who'd read this I would still recommend the repops (if available) because they are "usually" bad but not so bad as can't be coerced into place with a little (OK, a lot of) blood-letting. :D
how much do you want for that set of floorpans ?
Here is a picture of the replacement pan I just received. Al wanted to see if it is a 6 or V8 pattern... did I measure the correct spots?
I am sorry, I was refering to the toe board and measuring from the side of the car to mid point of the ribs. Al
If you decide to overlap them I have a air flanger/punch you can use to create the recessed portion that the pan sets into. It also punches the holes so you can tack it in place.
I'll let you know how my install goes.. I'm not pleased with the quality of the repops, but I don't have the skills to create my own.. unless i wanted perfectly flat floors.. which I really dont care what they look like. its under carpet.
I'm going with the overlap method. about 1" per side, I plan on using rivits to hold the pans in place and then i'll stich weld the permeter.
I currently have the floors cut out, what fun that was.. I had someone's silver fender as a patch and was basicly cutting through two floors.
i need to clean-up my welding area and trim the panals to fit..
Wish Me luck
Nathan
Here is the drivers toe board.
The Front floors were $55 each and the toe was $40. They are 18 gauge.
I know they will need some fitment, but if it's 80% correct, I'm happy.
Al, I think the flange machine is more precision than I want to tackle at this point. Thank you for the offer though.
Tomorrow the surgery starts. Interior is stripped, frame rails supported in eight places and Kenny is on stand by with the fire extinguisher. Note the dramatic "night shot".
Be sure to remove the brake and fuel line before cutting the floor out. Or just be careful not to cut them.
What condition is the lateral brace? That may need to be replaced at the same time.
Once the steel is back in there be sure to properly protect it. You'll need catalyzed (aka 2K) epoxy primer inside and under. Then coat the entire under site with 3M Body Schutz.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...Vs6EVs6E666666--
Gas line... good point. I'll drop that first thing. The brake line will be easy since I plan on renewing all the lines and brake hoses when I upgrade to dual M/C. I see the front Parking Brake cable is also encroaching in the work area. I have a new one of those too.
Kenny and I went over to help Jeff with his car today. Here are a few photos of the progress.
Jeff, Hijacking your thread a little to have some fun. Funniest caption to this photo will get a really cool prize!
How about: "I didn't know the dipstick was in THERE!"
Now THAT'S thinkin' with yer dipstick!
Oh...I think that's taken...
I can think of quite a few but since this is a family oriented Forum I will go with " Ok, Ok, I'll cut it one more time, but if it's still to short we'll use it like it is!"
Caption:
"These replacement floor pans looked bigger in the catalog. That's the last time I order anything that ships out of Hong Kong!"
Anywho, here are the pictures from this week.Word of caution: We are all aware that it is bad to weld on galvanized metal. Everything I have read and heard up to this week was really stressing the that it is very important to grind off he galvanizing before welding. Leaving the coating on when heating causes gas that is bad for the weld and bad for the human applying the weld.
- Passenger floor prepped and weld-through primer applied.
- Home made mini-toe-board (1996 Vintage Ford Aerostar sheet metal... kind of like kidneys, best to keep them in the family)
- Passenger side welded in... mostly. I ran out of gas before finishing the hump.
- Drivers side nearly prepped.
I was very careful to grind every last bit of zinc coating off before putting stick to metal.
After vomiting for three hours straight that night I did some more research. Apparently the GRINDING of galvanized metal also causes "Zinc Shakes" aka "Metal Fume Fever".:NERVOUS:
I'm sure you all knew that. Unfortunately I learned it the hard way. That was two days ago and I'm feeling about 90% up to snuff now. I guessed the grinding dust wasn't good stuff to breath, but figured the exposure would be minimal doing it for only 30 minutes, outside with both doors open. Maybe I'm just fragile. At this point, I'm not in a rush to get back at it.
I know I'm opening myself up to a deserving nickname, but if my embarrassment keeps someone else from getting sick, let the flames start.
Hey F.J.,
Nice work! Sorry to hear you got sick though. That's a bummer. Wish I could find a fragment of free time to come out and lend a hand, but I'm booked up solid for at least two more weeks. But you're making really good progress.
[thumb]
Oh, and I think so far you're the winning caption.:ROTFLMAO:
I can vouch for how sick Jeff has been the last couple of days. Pretty quiet around the office. Funny because I did the same thing on mine and don't recall feeling sick the next day. Maybe the wind was blowing just right. I'll have to ask my dad about this. He was a welder for many years.
Looking good [thumb] I'm sure you can find a few other things to do while you recover from the fumes and are ready to finish welding.
I was able to rebuild my heater box (complete with new heater core) while I recovered. Some fresh paint on the doors and motor, new foam throughout, and a few new clips (I think I have 11 now... those guys are almost $4 each!).
The replacement heater core is 2" thick rather than the stock 2-1/2". I used Kenny's trick of "Frost-King" weather-strip to make up the difference. The old heater core looked great but I don't want to chance an anti-freeze stain on my new Palamino carpet.
I disassembled the blower motor to clean and oil both bushings. Even after 45 years the brushes still look like new... I guess you don't need the heater much in Sacramento.
Nice work.
Let me know if I need to take the tank for a refill. It came from Central Welding in Ballard.
You bought the wrong heater core. The 2.5" version is available from Falcon Enterprises.
You need to ware a filtered mask when painting or welding galvanized metal. Of course a fresh air ventalation system is the best. I know that Eliot uses only a filtered mask.
Hi Pat, I'm going to take the tank in and get it filled next week. There is a Central Welding near work, I'm guessing they will exchange it for me.
I knew the heater core was 1/2" too thin, but it was $20 less expensive and I had some of the weatherstrip laying around (free).
You can be sure I'm be wearing my cartridge respirator next time I'm grinding.
"Why yes Igor, I belive that this syringe IS the proper length ! bwah, bwah, bwahahaha !" :ROTFLMAO:Quote:
Originally Posted by Luva65wagon
That is an Argon/CO2 mix BTW. They will probably just swap tanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff W
I realized I owe this thread a picture or two. Here it is before the seam sealer and second coat Rust Encapsolater. I have the edead 45 (Dynamat alternative) now installed. I'll get pictures when it warms up again.
I also repaired my horribly cracked steering wheel and fashioned a painting jig. We will see how well it holds up.
Nice floors. That is a big improvement from the last time I saw them.
I never saw it before, but it looks like it should last another 50 years.
I wish I had a way to mass-produce the e-brake pull I did on my wagon. Everytime I see a broken handle I think I should look into that. It wasn't easy to make though, but it will NEVER break.
It looks like summer in those pictures, but I'm sure it was 20 degrees.
Here are pictures from today.
Note the seat belt backing plate mounted inside the frame rail. There was a small slot on the outboard side of the rail under the rear side window. I was able string some MIG wire between the two holes and pull the plate up and secure with the two screws shown. I'll mount the three point retractor to this plate.
I also temporarily repaired the brake handle with Epoxy Putty to keep Roger happy. I'll keep my eyes open for a NOS handle, I have heard the repops do not have the metal core.
Looking good! Now it's getting to the fun part! You get to start putting in the goodies you've been collecting.
Thanks Jeff, I'm happy now. [yay] Except it doesn't say Brake now, which has noticeably lowered my enthusiasm. :rolleyes: :D
FWIW, I've replaced a couple of these already on my wagon, another Falcon and that Mustang of my friends. One was a repop for sure and it had the same structure as the original. May have changed on the newest repop's, but I can't imagine they'd make them any weaker than they are. Unless they could make it a buck cheaper and sell it for a buck more. :bicker: But it took me about 8 hours to make the one I have now, so would not make for a profitable piece. Just don't understand why they don't die-cast it from zinc or aluminum or something.
Looking good, Jeff. My e-brake handle is "broke" too (do they all?) and I'm watching for a good deal too. If I find one, I'll let you know. Matter of fact, I have to pull the e-braky assembly, as the mounting bolts are now only one as one was broken while separating it from the dask for the dash painting. I just gotta overcome my aversion to the cold and get my b**t out in the garage to do some work.
Two words: Space HeaterQuote:
Originally Posted by SmithKid
Of course, you have a pretty big garage!
Get some cheap carpet too and throw that on the ground. You'd be amazed how that helps. Get it dark to keep it from looking dirty.
Growing up in Mi., we did that too but we would lay down a couple layers of some thick cardboard {like from a refrigerator box} first and put the carpet on top of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Luva65wagon
Also, they sell a couple different portable propane heaters that are for indoor/outdoor use. Possibly a kerosene heater too. Either way would probably put out more heat for the money than an electric space heater.