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Thread: Rust Repair!

  1. #1

    Rust Repair! Paint!

    For the past year and half I have been trying to get everything working mechanically on my car. There were teething problems, but everything runs great now. The whole time my wife was asking:

    "When are you getting it painted? When are you getting it painted? When are you getting it painted? When are you getting it painted?"

    I took the leap and left it at a paint and body shop this past Monday. (It is a Maaco that was recommended to me by a friend who had his Corvette painted there. This particular shop has a good reputation with a lot of positive comments posted.) I pointed out some dime-sized rust bubbles along the quarter panels and they said that they would look at them. They e-mailed me photos yesterday and said that the rust turned out to be bigger than it had initially looked and offered a choice of repairing it with fiberglass or sheet metal. I did some internet reading last night and told them this morning at around 10:00 to repair it with sheet metal. They didn't waste time getting started. My wife went by there at 5:00 and took some pictures for me. They had already put the metal patches in place and they look good.

    Falcon from side:
    Falcon from side.jpg

    Left quarter panel before:
    Left quarter small.jpg

    Left quarter panel patch:
    left qp patches.jpg

    Right quarter panel before:
    Right quarter small.jpg

    Right quarter panel patch:
    right qp patch.jpg
    Last edited by ew1usnr; November 16th, 2013 at 03:41 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Quilcene
    Posts
    120
    Lookin' good. Is the "Wonder Falcon"going to stay black?
    IMG_0456cropthumb

  3. #3

    Paint

    Hello, Gina.

    I am definitely keeping The Wonder Falcon its original black. It is the first black car that I have had and the color has grown on me. The black is really dramatic and highlights the chrome.

    I am updating the type of paint. The car would have had enamel paint when new and enamel paint would be period correct, plus it is the least expensive option at Maaco. But, enamel is the lowest in durability and gloss compared to the other paint choices. I selected the top of the line modern base coat / clear coat finish that offers the best durability and highest gloss. 95% of new cars come with two-step application base coat / clear coat finishes

    The available choices were (working their way upward in price and warranty length):
    chart.jpg

    Enamel, Enamel with UV protection, Urethane (harder than enamel), Urethane + IC (integrated clear, meaning one-step paint mixed with clear coat), Base coat / clear coat (Dupont Nason paint), and base coat / performance clear coat with Dupont ChromaBase paint (twice as expensive as the Nason).

    I selected the best:
    chart 3.jpg

    I asked to have the underside of the hood painted and said that I would take the car to shows. The manager said that they usually turn a car around in 3 or 4 days and asked if I would mind if he kept mine for a couple of weeks. I told him to take his time that I had another car. I think that he really does want to do an especially good job on this car. We shall see and I am hoping for the best. I should get the The Wonder Falcon back some time this coming week.
    Last edited by ew1usnr; November 15th, 2013 at 08:09 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    906
    Really looking forward to seeing the final product....(I wonder if your wife is related to mine?) I'm following the same philosophy...get mechanical all done first, then go to body, paint & upholstry. (and there's a lot of stuff to be done..) Are you also going to have them paint the engine compartment or trunk inside? Mine needs all that.
    Do you mind if I ask which Maaco you went to? i know Kenny also had a recomendation and wonder if it's the same one.
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  5. #5

    Uh-oh. Better get Maaco.

    Quote Originally Posted by dhbfaster View Post
    Do you mind if I ask which Maaco you went to? i know Kenny also had a recomendation and wonder if it's the same one.
    Hello, dhbfaster.

    It is located at 5409 Anderson Road, Tampa, Florida. (It is probably not the one that Kenny was recommending.)

    The last time I had a car painted was my 1977 Dodge Colt in 1983. I tried to sand it myself, and bought a sandpaper disc that attached to my drill motor. I went over the car with it and then had it painted. It didn't turn out well. A girl told me that the car looked like it had a leather finish.

    I didn't do any prep work myself on the Falcon because (based on my experience with the Colt), I figured that I would probably do more harm than good. Maaco said that they would just put masking tape over the side trim and window trim rather than remove it. That sounded good to me because if they pulled that stuff off, they might bend it or not be able to get it back on.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by dhbfaster View Post
    i know Kenny also had a recomendation and wonder if it's the same one.
    The local Maaco that gets good reviews and did Patrick's final base/clear is in Seattle, near Westlake & Mercer.

    http://www.yelp.com/biz/maaco-auto-b...inting-seattle

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  7. #7

    Paint and Body Update

    Quote Originally Posted by dhbfaster View Post
    Are you also going to have them paint the engine compartment or trunk inside?
    No, just the underside of the hood. Someone else had previously painted the engine compartment and the inside of the trunk. They look OK, but they unfortunately painted over all the wiring under the hood and inside the trunk with black paint while they were doing so. That has made tracing wires and figuring out color codes somewhat difficult.

    The guy at Maaco sent me some updated photos today. They have finished the rust repairs and "will start sanding and prepping the rest of vehicle this week".

    On the right and left quarter panels I asked him to keep the seam visible that runs along the top of the rocker panel to the rear fender. He traced a groove to replicate the original seam.

    Left quarter:
    Left quarter s.jpg

    Right quarter:
    right quarter s.jpg

    They also repaired some rust on the tail:
    Tail s.jpg

    Here are the front end left and right. The car looks like a 1960's gasser hot rod with the front bumper removed:

    Front s.jpg

    right side s.jpg

  8. #8

    Paint update.

    The paint shop has had my car for over three weeks now. I hadn't heard anything from them for a couple of weeks, so I stopped by today on my way home from work and saw that things are coming along very nicely. The manager (Danny) took me back into the shop and explained what they had been up to. He said that everyone who had been coming by to see their cars had been looking at my Falcon and asking if it was for sale!

    Danny explained that they had hand sanded the car because they didn't know how much bondo it might have, and if they media-blasted it the bondo would be blown away. They sanded the hood, roof, and trunk down to bare metal and didn't find bondo, but he said that the paint had been really thick and that they had filled the shop up with dust from all the paint. He said that it looked that there had been maybe nine layers and that some of it had been lacquer (the car originally had baked enamel). He said that the thick paint was why the finish on mine had looked cracked and wrinkled.

    They sanded the hood to bare metal and filled a number of small dents and dings to make it smooth.
    hood.jpg

    They also sanded the roof. He said that it had no dents. They will paint the bare metal with self-etching primer, and then sealer, then the base coat, and then clear coat, and buff it when they are finished.
    Roof.JPG

    The manager said that the trunk lid was the most dented, but they had sanded it down and filled and smoothed all the dents. (The trunk lid was probably dented from 50 years of setting grocery bags on it.)
    Trunk lid.JPG
    Last edited by ew1usnr; December 7th, 2013 at 05:33 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    906
    Exciting stuff...wow 9 layers! I thought mine would would have more paint than any other car out there but I've been trumped. It sounds like you're really getting your money's worth. Can't wait to see the final product, I hope mine will be ready to paint by Spring time.

    Thanks for sharing!
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  10. #10
    It makes me SO NERVOUS seeing the trim and tailights, etc left on. I've seen so many post-paint job scuffs on these things. Tape won't keep a sander from sanding the trim. I know, most of it's hard to remove, but the taillights and grille are not hard to remove and would be better to paint below them than around them.

    It's looking very good though - I hope it comes out to your liking.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  11. #11

    Paint and Body

    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    It makes me SO NERVOUS seeing the trim and tailights, etc left on. I've seen so many post-paint job scuffs on these things. I know, most of it's hard to remove, but the taillights and grille are not hard to remove and would be better to paint below them than around them.
    True, but .... removing items has its own risks.

    Point noted on the tail lights. I am not eager to insist that they be removed because that would require detaching the wires and all the wires were painted black when a previous owner painted inside the trunk. The paint guys will not want to get involved with figuring out the electrical wiring. It (hopefully) would not be terribly difficult for me to sort out in their parking lot before driving the car home, but it might be easier to avoid that issue by just taping the lights and carefully sanding around them.

    It would be easy to remove the grill, but it looks like it would be OK to cover it with paper and leave it in place. I won't be painting behind the grill. They have already sanded the hood. They do need to sand the "lip" below the grill, but it doesn't seem necessary to remove the grill in order to do that.

    For each trim item removed, there is a chance that it might get bent, screws or nuts or the part itself might be lost, or they might scratch the paint while re-attaching it.

    The side trim strip on each side is held in place with probably twenty attachment points. The strips could be bent while trying to pull them off. The insertion holes could be rusted and make it difficult to re-attach the trim.

    Removing things like roof-gutter trim, window and windshield trim, and door handles would be nice because it would avoid the scuff issue and allow painting beneath them. But, that would be a lot of additional work and time is money.

    I am not expecting perfection out of this, but am hoping for something a good bit better than what I had going in. We shall see. The manager said that he expects to "start shooting color" this coming week.
    Last edited by ew1usnr; December 7th, 2013 at 05:32 AM.

  12. #12
    Well, do want you will but I agree with Roger on removing what you can of the trim. You'll be happier in the end. I've seen too many cars where you can tell things were masked when you look close and I just think "Why?"

    As far as the taillight wiring goes, just use some masking tape and a Sharpie to label the corresponding terminals and you'll have both lights out in 30 minutes or less.

    Just be careful with transporting the grille but I would remove that for sure. While the paint job is getting finished, use the time to put the trim on the bench and give it a spit shine. Maybe touch up the black paint if needed. If you pay attention when transporting, the risk of damage is minimal.

    I would even take five minutes to remove the antenna bezel and drop the rest into the finder a little before they tape the hole. Just leave enough antenna sticking up to grab it when you're putting things back together.

    I know I wouldn't want someone cutting and buffing around trim that I could easily remove. High RPM disks can suddenly skip and just a fraction of a second on the trim can leave a nasty mark! In a perfect world that wouldn't happen but why take the chance.

    All of the side trim hardware to reattach it is available repop. I'd remove those if it was my car. Same with door handles. The stainless trim could be left on and masked. Stainless is pretty tough so risk of damage is minimal.

    So, just my 2ยข. Paint is a pricey piece of the restoration process that you won't want to redo anytime soon. Not a good place to skimp IMHO.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  13. #13
    Agreed on removing what you can. The tail lights and grill for sure. There is a panel under that grill that can't be painted properly with the grill in place. The tail lights come out so easily. It would take longer to mask them than to remove.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
    Posts
    2,117
    Pull it pull it pull it. 10 minutes for the grill 15 max for tail lights youll be happy you did.
    63 Sedan Delivery
    5.0 HO EFI AOD 8" rear

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    I had the same side trim on my 63 Futura. It did have the rust you mentioned originating from the holes for the trim mounting hardware. I know this because it spread beyond the edge of the trim and started bubbling the paint on the visible part of the panel.

    The car was from Wisconsin... the rust belt. I don't know if Floria has similar challenges.

    On the other hand you have to draw the line somewhere or every project would become a complete restoration.

    Good luck and enjoy the fresh paint.
    Last edited by Jeff W; December 8th, 2013 at 12:03 AM.

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

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