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Old February 13th, 2018, 06:20 PM
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Luva65wagon Luva65wagon is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 4,481
Yeah, that coil should take the full voltage (unless it indicated otherwise).

If you poke your head under the dash and find your ignition switch, you'll see the little ~2" long pigtail with a female bullet connector and to that is where the pink resistance wire connects. I usually just pull that connection and plug a solid wire in and run it under the hood through a grommet somewhere to feed the coil. That will get you key-on IGN 12V. This also negates any power to the red/blue and red/blue wires at the firewall connector - as long as you pull the factory wire off the "I" terminal. That "I" terminal, by default, feeds 12V back to the coil as long as you are cranking over the starter - and only then. That's how that circuit works. When you crank over the engine the "I" terminal sends 12V+ to the coil for a hotter start (and it didn't matter that it also pushed power back all the way to the key switch). When your motor starts... then releasing the key transfers power from the "I" terminal source to the IGN terminal of the key switch - and with the resistor wire only 9V or so gets to the coil. That same 9V also fed back over to the "I" terminal at that point, but since it was a null connection it too didn't matter. I have sometimes used that 9V source (on stock setups) to feed an electric choke on a carburetor since 9V seems to be plenty to get the choke to work. But I digress...

So to recap,
1) pull the pink wire from the bullet connector at the switch (tape off)
2) Disconnect the coil red/green (tape off)
3) Disconnect the "I" terminal re/blue (tape off)
4) Connect a solid wire to the female bullet connector at the switch and run to the coil in lieu of the red/green.
5) Run a wire from the "I" terminal to the correct terminal of the DSII connector.
6) Do a little jig
Roger Moore

63 "Flarechero"
powered by: '65 289-V8 | T5 | 8" TracLoc rear

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