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Thread: Welding Work

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    300

    Welding Work

    I am looking for some local welding talent, on a budget, to tackle my doghouse modifications. I have been playing with it for some time trying to figure out exactly what I want to do with it. After a visit from Patrick and Jeff today I have it narrowed down.

    The main issue is the 4V intake and carb stick out too far to fit inside the doghouse. I made a cut in the side panel where I want to create a "hump" to follow the contour of the intake and carb. In order for this to work and use the lid without modifications the entire doghouse will need to be raised 2 1/2". I will need to maintain the exact footprint so it mounts with no body modifications.

    Pat brought up a good idea and I want to go with it which is use quick release hardware to fasten it back in to the floor, something like these: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Bolt-Pro-B...317436&sr=1-10 I would like to make the doghouse one piece instead of 4 to help make it more rigid. With quick release pins I will not need the advantage of taking a single panel out. I am also in process of moving the wiring for the starter relay which OEM mounts to the doghouse.

    Going along the above idea I want to ditch the hinge system for the cover and put hood pins in place of them. This makes it much easier to service the engine bay. Factory is to lift from the front which makes it awkward to work in. Some guys have swapped the hinge to the front for entry in the rear. This approach is an improvement but I would rather lift it completely out.

    Finally I want all of the holes filled in and ground. Over the years too many drill bits went through these panels for various reasons, most not so good. In fat, my cut out worked out well as previously the guy cut the panel so he could fold it in to adjust the carb then fold it back and tape it.

    This project seems pretty straight forward for those with the skills, I do not have such skills. Any recommendations on both design and a good welder would be much appreciated.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Brian
    '67 Falcon Bus/240/C4/Offy DP/MSD Duraspark II/Holley 4160

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Mill Creek
    Posts
    1,224

    Welding Work

    I am definitely not an avid welder but have done some on my Falcon. From what I know of getting parts or assemblies welded it cost quite a bit. Especially when it came to fabricating and welding.
    If it was me I might look at fabricating a cover that is fiberglas. Not sure if that is feasible in this situation but I am sitting in my motorhome in Arizona and looked at the fiberglas engine cover in here. I can tell you from experience that fiberglas is much cheaper to work with.
    I did build my fiberglas surround system for the trunk area and I had zero experience with fiberglas. It looks good and was pretty inexpensive in comparison to welding. You can see the work in "show off your ride" in the "update pics" by Badbird. Just a thought. Larry

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Fiberglass does open up a boatload of very cool design options... anything from a minuture van painted like the outside scheme to a giant Tiki Head.

    You could build in your stereo and speakers, maybe a flip up screen for the TV.

    You could hinge the entire doghouse with the pivot point at the rear floor for easy access. I like the idea.

  4. #4
    Call Elliot at 206-623-3394. Tell him I sent you.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  5. #5
    Brian -

    Looks like a pretty straight-forward job. Seems like something worth gaining that skill you lack, if you ask me.

    From what I know of the cost to do this kind of thing with even Pat's in with Elliot, I can almost bet you could afford to pick up a nifty little welder like mine and give it a whirl. Then you will have the pleasure of doing it yourself and a tool you can use out into the future.

    If it were me I would also look for a box somewhere already stamped out that will cover that hole to make that a simpler job than fab'ing it up yourself (even guys like me who have been doing this sort of thing for 30+ years like a short-cut here and there). Just got to start looking around. Consider an ammo box, for instance.

    Raising it 2.5" will be pretty simple as well after you have it all welded together. Then you can strategically slice it in two and weld in a patch piece. You can do this with overlap spot weld (like the floor you saw me do in the Ranchero) and then do a nice texture paint job to make it go away.

    And finally - is that a seatbelt bolted to this cover?
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    300
    Roger -

    All good advice and I agree however I think I would rather cut my teeth on something with masking like the floor that so desperately needs to be done by the fall. I am confident I could make the welds strong, just not pretty and there is going to be a little finesse with shaping out around the carburetor. I am also at a point where I need to make up some time so it's good to have that worked on while I wrap up the electrical and misc plumbing. (I finished the transmission cooler lines last night and only cursed three times , I have become one with the tubing bender).

    I ended up finding a small projects guy in the Crown Hill area. His price was good and he had a lot of good ideas to share. The factory metal thickness is only about 20 ga, he is going to rebuild the bottom and the flange with 16 ga. I am also having all of the years of renegade holes filled.

    To answer your question, yes that is the seat belt mount. And yes I had the same concern and it added to the definition of "suicide front". Not to fret as the lap belts are history. I have two 3-point belt kits coming that will bolt to nothing but frame structure.

    Next question for all: I will need this thing sprayed by something a little better than rattle can, recommendations?
    Last edited by BPVan; May 3rd, 2011 at 11:21 AM.
    Brian
    '67 Falcon Bus/240/C4/Offy DP/MSD Duraspark II/Holley 4160

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by BPVan View Post
    Next question for all: I will need this thing sprayed by something a little better than rattle can, recommendations?
    Powder coat it.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    300
    A trip to Sequim? When is your axle going to be ready? I'll assume since your axle fits in the kiln that this doghouse will.
    Brian
    '67 Falcon Bus/240/C4/Offy DP/MSD Duraspark II/Holley 4160

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by BPVan View Post
    A trip to Sequim? When is your axle going to be ready? I'll assume since your axle fits in the kiln that this doghouse will.
    It "might" be ready this weekend. You can come along if you like.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  10. #10
    Well Brian - you couldn't do worse than this.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



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