Update pics

[BillP 98201]

Cant wait to see what it looks like outside......
You are doing great work Larry

[doghows]

Beautiful work. I can't wait till mine gets that far!!!

[Luva65wagon]

Larry,

I assume this is going to be exactly like the Mustang I did... a pain. You got to think in layers and make sure you don't cover up something you need to have in first. I think the door handle mechanism and rod should be in... as I recall -- and the window regulator. The adjustment for the angle of the wing window relative to the door is pretty critical as is the fore-aft adjustments. You should have the upper weatherstipping in too. The back windows are equally fickle to install and align.

If you want me to swing by sometime this weekend to show you the procedure (if you've not already figured it out... I am a bit slow catching up on the forum this week), just let me know. I am, as you know, 10 minutes away at most.

And as for what I'm seeing above..

[BadBird]

Well it doesn't look like I have everything I need to rebuild the window frames. Thought I got it all ordered from Dennis Carpenter but I evidently forgot to order the channel material that runs along the front edge of the front window. I am attaching a couple of pictures of what I need. It is the long channel that has the felt on three sides of the channel. I went to the Carpenter catalog and I can't for the life of me figure out what the part number is that I need. If anyone has ordered these I would appreciate the help figuring it out. It looks like the part number I need is on page 93 and is U-7021550-Y526 or -3C1, but the widths they show are 5/8" and my part measures 1/2" wide. Also, I can't read the other measurements they show. Then I would assume when I get that channel with the felt I have to rivet on the part that is at the lower end of that channel from the old part to the new part?
Roger I can promise you I will be begggggggging for your help as soon as I get this frame back together and ready for installation procedures. Thanks very much, Larry

[BadBird]

Well, with a lot of information from the club, my son, and anybody else who would listen I finally got the wiring done except for the transmission backup and neutral safety switch wires. That will be worked on tomorrow. Installed the instrument panel, switches, and old radio, (not going to hook it up, just for looks). Installed a new CD/Radio in the glove box. Got the glove box door on as good as I can get it to fit. Pain in the rear.
Installed the steering column, and wheel. Oh, yeah, still have to wire the 14 wires to the column.

[Luva65wagon]

Congratulations. And I assume you've tested all of those connections?

[BadBird]

Haven't checked a one. It could get kind of sparkly when I hook up the positive battery cable!!!!! Might get really exciting the first time I turn the ignition key.
Roger you mentioned you might stop by and give me some help on getting the steps lined out for installing the over door seals and trim. Would you be able to drop by this week for a short stop?
My brother is coming up here from Tucson on July 7th and we are going to fire the engine up then. Very excited and very nervous about that. Hope I can get all the glass and interior in by that time.

[Luva65wagon]

Larry- As soon as I hear from a friend about his son's league playoffs, so I know what days I'm free (I've missed every game so far and the kid's a bit bummed I haven't made it out to see him yet), I'll call you and see what your schedule is.

Sparkly? Probably more like a massive smoke bomb. Hopefully everything has a fuse. You can use a fuse in the positive battery cable line (something like a 30-amp size) so that if something goes up in flame just by hooking up positive, it will be that and not a wire within a bundle of other wires.

[Jeff W]

That's what I was going to recommend, in-line fuse for everything at the test- maybe even use a 12 volt test light between the positive battery post and the positive terminal to be sure you don't have a dead short when everything is turned off.

[BadBird]

Just an update on my 64.
Will not get it to the Hot August Nights in Reno this year. Got the car about 95% done and fired the engine up. Didn't have oil pressure and found the soft plug at the top of the block was missing so..........removed intake, installed plug and now have 70 lbs. of pressure AND a new oil leak that may be the rear main seal.
Will have to do a little (LOL) disassembly, so it will be in the garage while I am in Reno.
Oh, well. Nothing is easy so why should this part work out. The car isn't entered in Reno this year since I was on the 3000 car waiting list. Just wanted to take it along for fun driving. But it is entered for next year. Hope I get it done by then!!!!!............. So....
The bright yellow glow over the hill that was from the car now has a redish tint to the air from me being upset. Larry

[Luva65wagon]

And here I thought that all them sailors were having a great time when I saw that red hue on the horizon last night.

Quite a tough break there Larry. You could have still trailer'd it there and people could have still galked at it the entire way down. But I know, it would have been better to cruise it around.

[BadBird]

Latest pictures of the 64. The exterior finished but, I still don't like the looks of the grill. So I am going to take it off and do more work on it. The engine has been fired up, and I was going to take it in to get the exhaust done. But, my neighbor told me his friend bought all the exhaust system on line and did it himself for a mustang. So, if anyone knows much about that process let me know.
The interior is finished except for the sill plates and kick panels. More to come.

[pbrown]

It's looking real sharp Larry.

I have no doubt that you could install your own exhaust. A Mustang kit would be a good start. Are you planning for 2.25" or 2.5"? Long or shorty headers?

I plan on redoing my exhaust with 2.25" and reproduction hemi mufflers. I will start with the Flowmaster universal 2.25" kit and add a universal X pipe.

[BadBird]

I need to use the 2.5. That is the size of the electric dump tubing. Send me all the info you can on where what to get. Thanks very much.

[pbrown]

I need to use the 2.5. That is the size of the electric dump tubing. Send me all the info you can on where what to get. Thanks very much.

Get this tailpipe kit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLO-15807/
This will work from the muffler back. It's mandred bent and allows for quite a large muffler under the back seats. Remember that the gas tank is offset to the left so set the left side first and then the right. Use the bumber bolts for hanger locations.

Here is an X-pipe kit that you would connect to your header reducers. Attach mufflers to the output. This has nifty cutouts all ready to go.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BIG-53630FLT/

Mufflers are highly subjective. Here is a link that will show you all of the 2.5" offset/center oval and steel mufflers at Summit.

I just measured my car. It has the same tailpipes as above and there is room for up to a 22" overall length muffler.

You'll need a reducer from your headers to a 2.5" pipe. You'll also need some hangers - two at the rear and one on the x-pipe.