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Thread: Reconstruction has begun.

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    updates on the reconstruction. new pics.

    Well I got a lot done over the last couple of weekends and the delivery is apart. Now it is time to put her back together. I am going to fit the new floors, cut out the old ones, and bring her down to the shop for a good media blasting. Then I will put the new floors in and see how much more repair work to the metal is needed. I hope it doesn't get much worse than what I can already see. Any way I will keep you updated and shoot some more pics as we go along. If you see anything going wrong please feel free to let me know. I have not done a restoration quite this extensive before so this is partly learn as you go for me. Thanks Guys.. Steve H.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by doghows; January 4th, 2010 at 09:42 AM. Reason: new pics

  2. #2
    It's looking good so far. Are you going to remove the wiring harness and the rest of the small bits?

    I'll bet you have a rust issue in the cowl. It wouldn't take much effort to pull the cowl vent. Get a spot weld cutter and drill out the welds and it will come off. Then cut out the bad and weld in new steel.

    What are the plans for this one? L6? V8? Turbine? What suspension? Tranny?
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  3. #3
    Looks like all the wiring is out of it... that last picture I think was a "before" picture. But it does look like the strut-rod nuts might be unwilling to come loose... and maybe the screws holding on the striker plates. Kroil, I say.

    I was going to ask as well whether you were able to ascertain the condition of the cowl? I started to drill those out on a Ranchero had once and after starting to drill out about 100 spot welds I decided to abandon the car before I got that far. I wonder to this day if anyone ever go it to the place you are at here. Keep up the progress pics!
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  4. #4
    I've been thinking. I know, that's never good.

    Picture this. Paint the delivery satin black. Not flat, you want a bit of shine. Lower it a couple of inches to get the right stance. Add red pin-striping and make up a garage name for the panel area. Make it look like a vintage shop truck. Better yet, use your own business name.

    For wheels, use these in 15".

    http://asp.americanracing.com/dealer...ga/mVN5701.jpg

    Maybe some Coker reproduction Redline tires.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  5. #5
    I painted that Mustang I worked on and my 67 Pickup Satin Black (#7777 Rustoleum Enamel). Stealthy...

    http://www.rainierfalcons.com/forums...read.php?t=507
    Last edited by Luva65wagon; December 5th, 2009 at 11:18 PM.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  6. #6
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    Wow you guys have a good eye. The strut rods finally came loose. Lots of free-all and a few (lots) of 4 letter words. The sedan is stripped now and I have cut out the back cargo floor area, and the passenger floor area. I will cut out the drivers floor next and then it is down to the shop for a media blasting session.
    The cowl area is not too bad, except for the passenger side. The ring is rotted out but the rest looks pretty solid. If this was not a rare car (1 of 113) I think I may have reconsidered the rebuild. But I have wanted one for 15 years so I am going for it.
    I like the idea for paint. I started that way, but the wife wants blue with the panel in a silvery gray color?? I haven't made up my mind. She has her car so this one is mine. The powder coating shop logo is definitely going on the side.
    Any how I will shoot a couple of more pics so you can see how much is cut off the car at this point and keep you all posted. Thanks for the support and input. Steve H.

  7. #7
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    Was looking at the post again and I missed a bunch of questions.
    OK, I like the wheels those are going to the top of my choices list. i want something cool but not over used.
    As far as the build; 347 stroker, AOD trans, 9" rear posi 4:11 gears. I am still on the fence for suspension. I ahve had a few good options from you guys so far just not sure if I am going with springs or air bags? Not sure on the steering yet either. Do I leave it stock or go with a rack and pinion?? I am going simple with the brakes. Disk front drum rear. I will keep the original trans just in case but the motor is a 200 6cly not the 144 so I will get rid of it. I'll keep the rear axle around as well, that way I can go back to original if the car becomes worth millions. (haha)
    Anyway that is the plan so far. Look for more pics tomorrow with big hole in the floor area.

  8. #8
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    updated pics.

    Ok here are some updated pics I took last night. I looked at removing the cowl piece. Wow that looks like a big job. Inner fenders dash and firewall all need to come loose??? Maybe I need to find an easier way to do that part. Any ideas???
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by doghows View Post
    Maybe I need to find an easier way to do that part. Any ideas???
    Another trick is to cut the cowl sides off. This is the area covered by the fenders. Cut both sides off and you get good but not great access to the cowl. Save the pieces and weld them back in place after the repairs are made.

    That is a big hole. Really big hole. I see a couple of welders in the background. They will be getting a workout soon.

    Now would be a good time to add subframe connectors.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  10. #10
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    Well I figured if I am replacing part of the floor, I might as well make it all good. I like the idea for the cowl. Mine already had places that have been cut out and welded back in so I think I will look at that first.
    Sub-frame connectors are being ordered tomorrow. Who has the best ones. I was going to get them from Dearborn??
    Anyhow in the background is a welder and a plasma cutter, both are going to be very handy real soon.
    Thanks for the help and advise and I will keep you posted.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by doghows View Post
    Sub-frame connectors are being ordered tomorrow. Who has the best ones.
    Global West

    http://www.globalwest.net/1964-73_Mustang_Subframes.htm
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  12. #12
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    newwer pics

    Didn't do a lot on the car itself this weekend, but I did get the doors fixed and the hood fixed up. Now I will put them in a powder coat primer and get ready for the body work. Hopefully will get the car to the shop over Christmas break and get it blasted down and ready for powder..
    Have a little more grinding to do on the weld spots but I think the hinge plate replacement came out well. First time I have tried anything like this?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #13
    Powdercoat primer? I've not heard of that. I did powder coat my engine block to match my interior.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  14. #14
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    I spoke with my powder supplier and he gave me powders that are being used specifically for under automotive type paints. He said they have had good results and with powder it seals and bonds to the metal. He said I can do my body work and any other primers and paints right over the top. Hopefully it will work as good as he says. Time will tell...

  15. #15
    I did a lot of powder coating on mine. I'm sure you will to being in the business.

    Things I coated include bumper brackets, tow loops, headlight buckets, hood hinges, splash shields, suspension parts (not springs), fender support brackets, engine block, and timing cover. I'm sure I'm missing something.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


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