I just use stainless socket head bolts with no loc-tite. I just snug them each spring. No problems so far.
I just use stainless socket head bolts with no loc-tite. I just snug them each spring. No problems so far.
Patrick Brown
331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI
After pulling the sitting-for-25-years 240 apart last winter, I found the manifold bolts came out just fine. Not sure if that was luck, but I seem to have good luck with getting any kind of bolt out, except for exhaust bolts on my beater cars when I lived in salty upstate NY.
I used grade 8 bolts with lock washers on my rebuild, torqued them to spec, and have not had any of them loosen up. I stripped the coating and painted them with the 1100 degree manifold paint. I checked them regularly the first couple months after assembly and had no issues. My engine location hides the bolts a little more than the cars so aesthetics were not quite as important.
Brian
'67 Falcon Bus/240/C4/Offy DP/MSD Duraspark II/Holley 4160
I started replacing the studs & nuts with the Stage 8 bolts I got today. But dang...it's cold out there and I really need to crawl underneath to get a good angle on removing the bottom studs.
But I do feel better knowing that once I get them all replaced, they ain't goin' nowhere!
Kenny Likins
Ballard, Seattle, WA
www.redfalken.com
`62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)
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