Little @ time

**BPVan** · February 22nd, 2012, 01:04 PM

Guy -

If you want to stick with the points, I recommend you do what Jeff did and not replace the resistance wire but install an inline resistor and mount it to the firewall. Install a new wire from the ignition, or use the one installed from the pertronix. Jeff has the resistor value you need.

I am a bit puzzled why your electronic ignition was not functioning. I also figured once you went electronic you wouldn't turn back. I run a DSII with an MSD identical to Kenny's setup and I have been much happier with the reliability.

Best of luck, I know you will keep us posted.

**falcon cobra** · February 22nd, 2012, 01:59 PM

Ok guy this is what you need to do, remove valve cover, turn motor to # 1 TDC and check to see if the valves on #1 are closed, just remember each 180degs will show TDC on the timing mark but it's not #1 each time, I don't remember what the other is [ havent had a 6 cyl for many years ] could be 3 or 4..so take plug out and stick a straw in the hole...jh

**Luva65wagon** · February 22nd, 2012, 03:08 PM

The firing order is 153624, so the cylinders are always in synch front to rear. This means #6 is also at the top, on the exhaust stroke, when #1 is on the compression stroke. 5/2 and 3/4 likewise.

So yes, as John is suggesting here, this is a way to make 100% sure you are on the compression stroke. #6 should have just been closing the exhaust valve and opening the intake valve while #1 should have both valve close and a little "lash" in the lifters. Not much, but clearly no valve being opened,

We are all assuming the the mechanicals were all in order. The back-fire can mean one of two things: either the valves are adjusted too tight and not building compression - or you are still 180 degrees out. Backfiring through the carbs is at least a sign you are now getting spark -- so that's a good thing.

While I was chatting with Gene the other day we both even floated the thought that you might even have the timing chain on wrong. Did you do that install - or the machine shop? Do you have any doubts even about that?

**Guy Monjure** · February 22nd, 2012, 05:34 PM

Thanks for all of your input everyone,
I did not want to go back to points but the electronic module was bad. At lest that is what I believe was killing my spark. By putting the points back I've proven the rest of the ignition circuit. I think!

The Ford manual has a test for the resistance wire but I have not looked at it yet. I would like to know what the ohm value is suppose to be if I need to install a new one.

Test for 180 degrees out: #1 both valves closed and #6 with one valve opening.

I built the motor with a neighbor of mine who is a 30 year mechanic. This was my first complete motor rebuild and I knew I needed his help. The only thing I did not rebuild was the head, the mechine shop did that and all the milling. I was reading about the valve adjustment being to tight stopping the engine from starting in the Ford manual today. But I adjusted them following the Ford manual and under my friends supervision. How do you recommend the valve adjustment be performed?
Guy

**Jeff W** · February 22nd, 2012, 07:26 PM

Originally Posted by Guy Monjure

The Ford manual has a test for the resistance wire but I have not looked at it yet. I would like to know what the ohm value is suppose to be if I need to install a new one.
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Guy

The ballast resistor I used was 1.5 ohms. If the voltage test on the pink wire tests out as shown in the manual, I would keep the original set up. Mine tested well outside of the specifications. I would replaced with the original style pink wire if I wasn't planning on going with a modern set up next spring... one that uses full voltage. Since I had a nice young man (Brian) already laying on the floor of the car with tools and a soldering kit, it seemed like a good time to run a wire to the engine compartment where an old guy can access it.

Jw

**Luva65wagon** · February 22nd, 2012, 07:44 PM

Here's the spec on the resistance wire. It's sort of hard to measure in the car because one end is at the ignition switch (plugged into the short black/green wire) and the other end is in the connector under the hood hinge.

COLF-12250A
Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft #DY37)
61.49" long
Color coded PINK
1.30-1.40 ohms resistance

**Guy Monjure** · March 6th, 2012, 01:44 PM

Thanks for the info.

I just been taking a step back lately. I know I'm going after the distributor position next but I just had to take a break. I looked around the shop and it was trashed. I got out there today for the first time in a couple of weeks, cleaned and orginized everything.

I got to get with it,
Guy

**Luva65wagon** · March 6th, 2012, 03:35 PM

It's good to step away sometimes - but we were getting a little worried that you ran away from it completely, screaming for the hills!

Shop looks pretty neat now. Time to start messing it up again.

I have to ask... you said: "I built the motor with a neighbor of mine who is a 30 year mechanic." Where is he now? Can you not beg, uh I mean ask, him for some help to get this figured out? A 30 year mechanic should be able to sleuth this out in no time.

**Guy Monjure** · March 7th, 2012, 08:51 AM

He was my next door neighbor but he moved away last month.

With you guys help I will get her running. I know I lined the cam and crank up with the dots on the sprokets when I installed the timing chain. With everything cleaned up I plan on getting back to it next weekend. I will find TDC with both valves closed on #1 and get the rotor pointed in the right place. I'll get there, I just did not expect my first engine build to take so long. I am happy I built the engine myself because that is one of the items of auto restoration I had never done before. Although, screaming in the hills is still an option.

Hope you guys are getting a little better weather up there,
Guy

**Luva65wagon** · March 7th, 2012, 01:25 PM

Originally Posted by Guy Monjure

Hope you guys are getting a little better weather up there

Well... my allergies are saying spring is on the way!

Today is pretty nice, but had 3 inches of snow a couple days ago and icicles from the gutters this morning. Must mean were close.

I'm sure you'll get it started too. When you find out what it is I bet you will slap yourself up-side the head and go...

'how'd I miss that?'

**Guy Monjure** · March 13th, 2012, 12:20 PM

Roger,

I found I was 180 degress off. I corrected that and she is wanting to start, but I am running out of cranking power before it runs on its own. I have another car running with the batteries connected.

With the new altenator / voltage regulator connected the voltage drops from 13.5V to 8.5V when I crank it than the voltage comes back up to 10.5V.

With the voltage regulator disconnected the voltage drops from 13.5V to 10.5V when I crank it than the voltage comes back up to 12.5V.

I still have not gotten it to run on its own, need help.

Hope everyone up there is having a good day,
Guy

**Luva65wagon** · March 13th, 2012, 01:01 PM

Guy - do yourself a favor and just disconnect the +12 volt cable from the alternator (should be a cable going from it to the BAT side of the starter solenoid on the fender apron) until you get the other issues worked through. It won't charge that way, but the car will run a LONG time on just the battery. Long enough to work out the bugs.

I know you got that alternator from a wrecker - right? - so have you run it to a local parts house to see if it's any good?

A battery on a low state of charge can still read 12 volts, but have very little cranking amps left, which would suck it right down under load. The difference with the alternator attached could just be the fact that it is trying to charge even when spinning at cranking speed (sorta doubt this though). But regardless - take it out of the equation for now. The heavy 12 volt wire going to it should be enough.

**Guy Monjure** · March 13th, 2012, 02:44 PM

Thanks for the reply.

I will disconnect the wire you spoke about for now. I will also bring the altenator to autozone to get it checked out because I did get it out of the junkyard. I have the battery charger on the battery now. I have to work for the next 4 days so that should give it time to bring the amps back up. And give me time to cool off. This is my fifth restoration, but my first engine rebuild.

It's 72 degrees and sun is shining down here,
Guy

**Luva65wagon** · March 13th, 2012, 09:05 PM

4 days is a long time for a battery charger unless it's one of those float-type battery tenders.

I'd not worry about hauling the alternator out yet - get the battery charged and get her running. Then hook up the wire again as see if all is normal.

**Guy Monjure** · March 18th, 2012, 11:21 AM

Roger,

First off, I want to thank you for sticking with me through my rebuild. Having you to bounce things off of has helped keep me going. There are always 100 voices to tear my efforts down for every one person that truely tries to help me. Thank you.

This morning I pulled the battery and the alternator and brought them to AutoZone to be tested. The alternator is good, putting out 65Amps. The battery was bad. I bought a new one and will get the battery and alternator installed this weekend.

I contacted Comp Cam because I was concerned about having turned the engine over without it starting. I thought I may have to re-lube the camshaft lubes and lifters, but their technician says the new camshaft and lifters should be fine and there is no need to remove them from the engine for re-lubing. He did recommend I get my electrical issues sorted out before trying to start the engine again.

I am going to trace out the wiring I did from the alternator to the regulator pigtail you gave me and write back to you as clearly as I can the connections so we can go over them together again Roger.

We are having 50 mile an hour winds today, pretty bad.
Hope your weather is better,
Guy