Recurve Duraspark

**SmithKid** · December 6th, 2011, 12:01 PM

Good thing you're taking the car..... They may need to know what kind of key fob you normally use and if the brake pedal pad is new or worn.

**redfalken** · December 6th, 2011, 12:26 PM

OK...quit razzin' me. I've got such a bad memory, I keep all this stuff in a Word doc anyway so it was just a cut/paste! You'd be surprised what they might want to know. When I took it in for an alignment they wanted to know how much I weighed. I guess they have a ballast system now so they can put weight in the driver's seat and get it more accurate...

I got the DSII from RockAuto. I went for the Autoline brand which is rebuilt in Canada. I think I went for the `81 Fairmont 200. It was $66.28 with shipping and included the cap and rotor (but no adaptor). There was a $3 core charge but Jeff's getting my old one for his upcoming build.

There are (of course) a lot of opinions on the curve characteristics on the Ford Six Forum and TFFN. Mine has always seemed to like 12 BTDC for initial timing and I figured 3,000 rpm was a good point to be all in considering I'm at 2,900 going 65 mph and 3,100 going 70. The mechanical being 24 at the crank seemed pretty middle of the road.

**falcon cobra** · December 6th, 2011, 02:43 PM

Hey kenny, thats just what they need to know, I use to set dist. on the old sun machine's years ago, my 327 chev was set at about 12 to 14 at idle and was full in by 2600, by changing the springs and adding to the weights or shaving some off to get what you want...I still have access to a dist.machine at transmission kellys,where I worked a few years ago, good luck, and how much do they want for this service??

**redfalken** · December 6th, 2011, 11:31 PM

He's going to it for $60. I've got the springs and tried to do it with Jeff's dial back timing light but the MSD was causing some pretty funky readings.

After the timings down I can finally move on to tuning the Weber!

**pbrown** · December 7th, 2011, 07:59 PM

Kenny,

I would suggest have all the mechanical timing in a bit earlier. Shoot for 2500RPM.

**redfalken** · December 8th, 2011, 06:16 PM

Thanks Pat. So what's the thought process to figure that out? I've tried reading through threads on other forums to see what others have done but it seems to be all over the place.

**pbrown** · December 8th, 2011, 06:52 PM

Generally speaking, getting the advance in earlier will improve your throttle response and accelerate quicker. Getting it in too early will cause detention. Getting all of the mechanical advance in as early as possible without causing detonation is the goal. Mine is all in by 2200 RPM. Of course mine was set from the comfort of my sofa with a laptop.