Heater Core Replacement

**Luva65wagon** · April 18th, 2012, 01:35 PM

Well - I'll bring what I have - you bring your defecto cable... and we'll figure something out. Will that do'ya?

**ew1usnr** · January 8th, 2015, 07:15 PM

Hello,

I need to replace my heater core. I already have a new plastic plenum and will order a new 2 1/2" heater core and a heater seal kit from Falcon Parts.

Heater Core C0DZ-18576-A .95.jpg

Do need anything else? Would I need, or would it be nice to have, these cowl seal retaining clips or heater housing clips?
Cowl seal retaining clips 4488.50.jpg

Heater Housing Clip .50 c0df-19a779-a.jpg

Mac's sells this heater to cowl seal for ... $49.95. Yikes. Is that generally necessary?
Seal C0DF-18A566-B - Unavailable.jpg

Macs also sells this "water outlet cap" for $2.95. What is that for?
Water outlet cap .95.jpg

Thanks, Dennis.

**dhbfaster** · January 8th, 2015, 10:18 PM

Glad you're about a week ahead of me Dennis...I'm interested in how all your parts work out. Especially in how that heater core works out when you get it.

fyi, Kenny has a post about (what I think is a better solution for) the heater to cowl seal (~$10 or so in parts from Lowes...and I think a longer lasting solution too.) the "seal" in mine was nothing but a wire-the rest was totally disintegrated ... Darned if I can find that post now though...hopefully he'll jump in. I don't think I'd buy that part until after you read his post.

**redfalken** · January 9th, 2015, 12:02 AM

That was in a TFFN thread:

http://www.tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic...&hilit=+heater

Yea, I wouldn't go nuts and buy a stock seal unless you've got the money and want everything stock. It is more convenient to install than what I did but I doubt you would even have to mess with it again over the next 5-10 years.

There's not much back pressure in that system so it doesn't have to be anything fancy. Even some closed cell foam cut to size and large zip ties would work. You will get a crick in your neck trying to see it once installed!

**Luva65wagon** · January 12th, 2015, 08:45 AM

I can never remember my TFFN login and dread going there most times anyway (for this very reason; namely, that you must be signed in to see anything), but before I digress further I'm trying to figure out what seal we're talking about. Are you talking the fresh-air intake part? The rubber one that disintegrates in a year - even when bought brand new? If so, then yeah - do something different. I like the Mustang sleeve as well. It fits over the heater-box flange and just presses against the cowl. Essentially a piece of 1" thick foam rubber made into a sleeve and tall enough to get compressed when sandwiched between the box and cowl.

heater to cowl.jpg

I do have a few spare 'used' parts for these heater boxes, so if anything is totally rusted away, or something, I may have a less rusted part.

**ew1usnr** · January 15th, 2015, 05:06 PM

Originally Posted by Luva65wagon

Are you talking the fresh-air intake part? The rubber one that disintegrates in a year - even when bought brand new? If so, then yeah - do something different. I like the Mustang sleeve as well. It fits over the heater-box flange and just presses against the cowl. Essentially a piece of 1" thick foam rubber made into a sleeve and tall enough to get compressed when sandwiched between the box and cowl.

Hello, Roger.

Is this the same foam rubber sleeve that you are describing?
Scott Drake Heater Box Inlet Gasket at Cowl 1965 - 1970 c5zz18a569a.jpg

The correct Falcon part costs $40, but these Mustang pieces are only $3.56 at Summit racing.
See: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sd...RtkaAqC08P8HAQ

I will not be able to remove and disassemble my heater box for a few more weeks. Once I get it apart I will be able to see what parts are needed.

Thanks, Dennis.

**dhbfaster** · January 25th, 2015, 04:29 PM

Dennis, Did you get your new heater core yet? Wondering how it looks.

**ew1usnr** · January 25th, 2015, 06:55 PM

Hello, Don.

I have delayed working on the heater due to needing to study for an exam that is scheduled for this coming Friday. Maybe I will be able to take it apart this coming weekend. I want to see the dimensions of the existing heater core before I order the replacement.

Falcon Parts.com listed a "One 1960 – 1964 Heater Core – 2 ½” thick, C0DZ-18576-A." and said "This is the correct heater core for all models of the 1960 - 1964 Ford Falcon & Mercury Comet. If you have one of these models with a two inch core, it is incorrect." Mustangs evidently used a two-inch thick core and a spacer. A two-inch core might flop around in the heater box without a spacer. Some of the heater cores also vary somewhat in length. Falcon Parts, unfortunately, said that they are out of stock and cannot say when they will have more. This is the picture that Falcon Parts shows:

D FP Heater Core C0DZ-18576-A .95.jpg

It looks like this used original 1964 Falcon heater that was listed on e-bay:
D Original 1964 heater core.jpg

This is one listed for a 1963 Ford Falcon with a V-8 from Radiator Express. It is 2 1/2" thick, but the hose attachments are different:
Inlet: 5/8
Outlet: 5/8
Core Size: 7 3/4 x 6 x 2 1/2
Construction: Copper Brass
See: https://www.radiatorexpress.com/prod...tL2RoCUy_w_wcB
1963 Ford Falcon 4.3 liter V8 heater core Radiator Express .04.jpg

This one from Dearborn Classsics looks correct, but they do not provide dimensions. Notice that the bottom looks different than the bottom of the one sold by Falcon Parts. I don't know if that makes a difference. See: http://www.dearbornclassics.com/1963...and-comet.html
Dearborne Classics 64-86444.jpg

I just saw this one at Summit Racing for $55.91. It is listed for a 1964 Falcon, but the dimensions look correct:
Heater Core Inlet Size:0.625 in. (5/8")
Heater Core Outlet Size:0.625 in. (5/8")
Heater Core Length (in):8.000 in.
Heater Core Width (in):6.000 in.
Heater Core Thickness (in):2.500 in.
See: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pl...ations/?page=2
Summit Racing .91.jpg

Advance Auto Parts has the same part for $10 less. See: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/t...4-P#fragment-2

Advance Auto lists this one as an exact fit for a 1963 Falcon, but it is two-inches thick. That is why I need to take my existing one out and measure it first.
Core Height: 6 in
Core Material: Copper Brass
Core Thickness: 2 in
Core Width: 8 in
Inlet Size(s): 5/8 in
Outlet Size(s): 5/8 in
Tank Material: Brass
See: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/t...934#fragment-2

**Luva65wagon** · January 25th, 2015, 10:45 PM

Dennis - missed the Q about the foam thing. Yes, that what Mustang users use and it sandwiches itself between the heater and fresh air opening. I've never used one in a Falcon, but can't imagine why they wouldn't work - unless the spacing it less on a mustang.

You can make a 2" core work, but you have to make "things" to wedge it in. I've seen cardboard and foam rubber, either of which are fine until they get wet - which shouldn't happen if all is good.

Both of these are doable, but both require a little McGuivering. But once done you've maybe saved money and nobody will be the wiser.

**dhbfaster** · January 25th, 2015, 11:29 PM

Dennis, There are also a couple on Rockauto.com at great prices...when you finally get yours out, maybe you can compare the dimensions.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,c...,parttype,6864

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT Part # 94575 More Info {#C5DZ18476A, D3TZ18476A} Core Dimensions: 7 1/8 x 5 7/8 x 2; Inlet Pipe Diam: 5/8; Outlet Pipe Diam: 5/8; Material: Aluminum
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. w/o AC
$17.52

PRO Part # 9010432 More Info
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. w/ 8" Core
$39.79

I was thinking about this "Pro" part...good price (compared a lot of the others-and I have a rock auto gift certificate from xmas...

), but a good write up about the durability features...like you though, I haven't had the time to get going yet. My main excursion tomorrow...going to the screw store...(Tacoma Screw) with a bin full of bolts and screws in bags, then this week...paint the engine....next may be the heater...hoping to learn from you!

**ew1usnr** · January 31st, 2015, 06:33 PM

I followed the directions for heater core removal that were shown here: http://www.joesfalcon.com/

I removed the heater box this morning and was surprised at how easy it was. I unplugged two wires and a ground from the blower motor, unhooked three control cables inside the car, removed the glove box liner. I removed four hollow, rubber-filled nuts from the blower motor and then pulled the heater box out of the car. That was it. The four nuts around the blower motor were all that held the thing in place. The nuts were sort of odd, though (see following):
01-hollow nuts.jpg

I don't know what these nuts are called, but they are made of thin metal and have rubber washers built into them. The nuts cracked when they were unscrewed. If I can't find a replacement the I will just replace them with a conventional nut, lock washer, and flat washer.

I removed the glove box liner and took this picture of the cowl vent duct. I was surprised to see that it was pretty much intact. I will put some black caulk over the small tear.
02-cowl duct intact.jpg

Here is the box pulled from the fire wall:
04-heater box pulled.jpg

Here it is removed from the car. Notice the original tower clamps where the hoses attach to the heater core.
05-heater box removed.jpg

Notice the carpet seals that a previous owner installed. They are glued to both sides of the metal flap valves. They seem to work and are too much trouble to remove so I will leave them alone.
06-carpet seals.jpg

I will continue this post with a "Part 2" so that I can include some more photos.

**dhbfaster** · January 31st, 2015, 06:48 PM

Nice writ up Dennis, looking forward to part 2!

**ew1usnr** · January 31st, 2015, 06:49 PM

Disassembling my heater box part 2.

Someone had worked on the heater previously, though, because the box was missing one clip from the top, two clips were missing from the right side (with one attachment point broken), and two clips were missing from the bottom (with two attachment points broken). Here is a photo of the bottom showing the two missing clips:
08-bottom of heater box.jpg

I opened the box and found a two-inch deep heater core backed up with a rectangular ½-inch spacer. This is the back side portion of the heater box and the spacer is on the right.
12-Outer Shell.jpg

It was odd because the spacer was sitting on top of a rubber gasket. I think that the gasket was original and it pressed against a 2 1/2" core. A previous owner later installed the 1/2" spacer and used a 2" thick core.
15-Outer shell with spacer removed.jpg

The spacer has a rolled up inner edge that was in direct contact with heater core:
16-spacer.jpg

The spacer had a rolled up perimeter edge and the heater core had four leak spots along its base where it contacted the edge of the spacer. The leaks can be seen as white spots along the the left and right edges of the core (4 small ones on the left and one big one on the right). The rolled up edges of the spacer can be seen in the lower right hand corner of the photo.
11-core showing leaks.jpg

The spacer appears to be the cause of the leaks, so I ordered a 6” x 8” x 2 ½” thick, 5/8” outlets that I can install without the spacer. The thicker core will just be held in place with weather stripping in both sides. The replacement core was a “ToughOne or Ready-Aire” Part No. 399007 replacement core from Advance Auto for $41.79 - $6.27 discount + $3.53 tax + $10.99 postage = $53.91. I also ordered three heater box clips Mfr. #: C0DF-19A779-A from Summit Racing for $2.25 each plus $4.95 postage. I am happy with how easy it is to find replacement parts for this 52 year old car.

I cleaned the heater box inside and out with 409 spray cleaner and then wiped it with a wet sponge. I need to paint the inside metal parts with rust neutralizer and primer, replace the old dried gaskets that hold the core in place with weather stripping, and replace the hollow blower motor nuts and old heater hoses.

**SmithKid** · January 31st, 2015, 07:44 PM

While on the subject of heater core replacement, it might be a good time for a reminder to check for electrolysis in our cars as this hasn't been brought up for a while. Especially if we have any aluminum components in our cooling systems (I do). Here is a typical link for the test procedure and some cures:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolin..._corrosion.htm

**Luva65wagon** · February 2nd, 2015, 09:05 AM

Dennis, Great write-up on the heater. The kit you buy with gaskets will supply all the correct foam sheets, so you may yet consider removing the shag carpet.

Those nuts are called speed nuts - though if you Google speed nuts you see J-nuts and all kinds of other nuts. A good hardware store should carry them and you can pack then with strip caulk to imitate the rubber seal. Or use 1/4-20 nuts. I'd probably use NyLocks and washers, wrapping a bit of strip caulk around the stud before tightening it to seal it.