So the sanding will be done this week so I plan to start with sealer and maybe color this weekend. (13th)
Question for painters, how long can sealer sit before color? I don't want to mess up at this point because my arms are wore out from sanding..
So the sanding will be done this week so I plan to start with sealer and maybe color this weekend. (13th)
Question for painters, how long can sealer sit before color? I don't want to mess up at this point because my arms are wore out from sanding..
Usually whatever you use for the temperature you have - and whatever flash time they say... that should be enough. Once the sealer has flashed off, then it is dry enough to paint. I know you said you didn't thin the last surfacer, so I don't know if that's the case with the sealer or not, but back in the day you had to select the correct thinner for the temperature you are spraying. Some flash off based upon temps to keep things from drying to fast or too slow.
What's the brand/part number again of your sealer? Maybe the painters here can look up info about it on-line and better advise.
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
Expect an epoxy based sealer to require a top coat within 24 hours. Download and read the P-sheet for each product you have.
Patrick Brown
331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI
Ok I'll look up the info but I should plan on sealing only what I can paint. So seal the jams paint the jams, assemble car seal the car paint the car.
Rinse repeat as nessesary. Thanks guys.
seal car
paint car
assemble car
You can't put any more sealer on once the jams are done. There will be overspray onto the panel edges. You would need to mask off the jams. Don't do that. The base coat dries very very fast. So you could assemble the car 30 minutes after jamming if you really want. You would have to take it back apart for clear.
Construct a jig that would place the doors and fenders in an upright position for painting. Then you won't have to worry about the metallic settling at different angles.
Go to www.autobody101.com and spend some time browsing and searching. You will learn a lot.
Patrick Brown
331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI
Agreed. Between Pat and that website, I have learned more about painting than I ever thought I would. Kenny is a great resource too, his Honda looks amazing.
Still a novice but I am much less intimidated by it all. I just cut my teeth on a big painting project in order to get some experience to do my van hopefully this winter.
Pat - I am guessing with the insane amount of body work Steve has done he can skip the surfacer? (BTW I don't think you should waste a good gun on surfacer, I shot it with a cheapo HVLP and it worked fine, gummy stuff!)
Steve would love to help out if I can fit it in. Been a busy summer but I am overdue for a trip out there.
Brian
'67 Falcon Bus/240/C4/Offy DP/MSD Duraspark II/Holley 4160
I agree. Though I'm not planning any painting projects, I spent some time there on Pat's recommendation. It's a very informative site.
Gene Smith
Fredrickson, WA
'65 Ranchero Deluxe
302, EFI, 4-Spd
Granada Discs
If you spray a sealer on the primer it will need to be painted with in an hour from what i learned form a painter here in Tacoma. Stella is getting sanded and ready for a few dent removals now. I hired out that part seeing how the whole car is apart and im thinking i want her straight.
Bookmarks