Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Spindle wheel hub problems

  1. #1

    Spindle wheel hub problems

    I've got a 64 futura convertible, i'm in the process of trying to redo the brakes and the drums on the front are shot needing to be replaced. However my problem is when I got the new brake drums, they did not come with the spindle hub on them (the original one looks like it is pressed on the drum and can't be taken off) I'm having zero luck trying to find the appropriate part for a new break drum. Am I missing something trying to take off the old one or is there a replacement part out there I can buy?

  2. #2
    The drum comes off the hub but it's usually real hard to get them off. I've always had to heat the drum around the center and studs with a propane torch and they'll usually pop off then.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,363
    I too have used heat as well as a very big hammer. I put a block of wood over the hub when wailing on it for protection. I just pound in the studs directly and install new.

    Now that I have a big press on loan (thanks Brian) I may give that a try.

    Another option is to bring them to a shop.

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

  4. #4
    I talked with the local NAPA about problem, he said their machine shop in Bremerton can help me out. I don't know how much it'll cost me but that seems like the best option for me as I don't want to destroy the hub getting it out. thanks for the replies, and I'll let you know how it turns out.

  5. #5
    Are you putting on new studs? They're not intended to be used again but may be OK. Just hard to tell until the work's being done. You may want to hunt down some new studs and take them with you.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    446
    When I re-did my brakes, way back before the disc brake conversion, I was surprised also that the front drums were delivered sans hubs. I asked the NAPA guy it they could swap the hubs, and he directed me to a tire store down the street where there is a guy.... I took my old drums, with hubs, and new drums down to the tire store. When I went into the tire store with my request, the guy behind the counter kinda looked around to see that no one was watching, and in a very low voice, said "Ok, leave 'em here and come back tomorrow." The next day, I came back and met the guy who actually swapped the hubs. I paid him ($20 as I recall), directly, no receipt, and he slipped the money into his pocket.

    From my experience with new hubs: HAVE THEM TURNED! Don't just use new hubs as-is. Also, if you can find a place that can do it, HAVE THE SHOES ARCED!

    I used my new hubs as-is, at first. The car shook like like mad whenever I applied the brakes. I think the NAPA store was able to turn them. That took care of the shaking! They couldn't do the arcing however. This is a process where they shape the shoes to exactly the same radius as the drums. Because I didn't get this done, the brakes became only gradually more effective as the shoes wore into the drums' radii.
    Gary MacDonald
    ROGER's...
    EX... '63 Hardtop
    Had...
    Scarebird front discs
    200 w/ CI alum head
    C4

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,363
    Gary, do you recall if you leave the bearings or races in the hubs? I am assuming new rear drums would be self -centering and not need to be turned... is that correct?

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    446
    I don't recall all the details. When I had the hubs swapped on the front drums, I'm sure the bearings were out, but the races were in (aren't they a press fit?) As you said, there aren't hubs for the rear drums, but I had all four turned anyway. Since they were all new, I guess I assumed all the drums were "out-of-round".
    Gary MacDonald
    ROGER's...
    EX... '63 Hardtop
    Had...
    Scarebird front discs
    200 w/ CI alum head
    C4

  9. #9
    I used to do all of this when I worked in a parts store that had a machine shop. We did everything there. Shops like this are few and far between these days, but they're out there.

    Anyway, the studs need to first get pressed from the hub first and then the drum from the hub. Typically you risk warping the old drum doing this, so you only do it when putting on new drums. You can then drive the new drum over the hub that has new studs pressed in prior. You must press evenly around the hole in the center of the drum to keep it from warping - to do it right.

    Edit: Many of the guys would use the lug nuts to pull in the studs and then to pull the new drum over the hub the same way. Not ideal. If you do this it is better to place the studs this way and then lay the drum over the hub and studs and then use a rim over it all to pull it together.

    Turning front drums is with the races installed, but no bearing needed. The collets are variable in size and they will find one to fit the inner and outer races to find center and align it. The rear drum uses a single collet "cone" on the inside of the drum and a outer sleeve on the opposite side to center it for turning.

    Most will say you don't need to turn new drums, but I always do and they are never as accurate as they will be after a focused (non production-line) assessment and turning.

    Arching the shoes is also something we did back then - sadly back when I'm sure there was asbestos in the lining. Probably only a handful of shops even have this machine any more for this reason. It is a good thing to do for an instant match, but many of the old-timers I worked with and tutored under didn't advocate it; saying, the shoe wears in within a hundred or so miles anyway. But if they have the machine - shoes are safer material these days... I say go for it.
    Last edited by Luva65wagon; August 6th, 2013 at 02:53 PM.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  10. #10
    I took my hubs to a local machine shop where they were able to place the remove the spindle hub and press it into the new drum. I've never heard the need to turn new brake drums, I think I'll do it. Thanks!

    FYI, the cost was only about 22$ a hub for switching it around a couple of days of waiting. It was Westbay NAPA in Bremerton

Similar Threads

  1. DNS Problems Fixed
    By pbrown in forum Forum Announcements
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: March 12th, 2013, 07:43 PM
  2. V8 versus 6 cylinder spindle stops
    By Luva65wagon in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: July 21st, 2011, 10:57 PM
  3. Carburetor Problems maybe
    By Nathan289 in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: February 13th, 2009, 09:05 PM
  4. problems ?
    By Ranchero_65 in forum Chit Chat
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: October 4th, 2008, 09:16 AM
  5. Electrical Problems
    By Amanda23 in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: May 19th, 2008, 10:14 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •