Gary, do you recall if you leave the bearings or races in the hubs? I am assuming new rear drums would be self -centering and not need to be turned... is that correct?
Gary, do you recall if you leave the bearings or races in the hubs? I am assuming new rear drums would be self -centering and not need to be turned... is that correct?
Jeff Watson
Seattle, WA
'63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)
I don't recall all the details. When I had the hubs swapped on the front drums, I'm sure the bearings were out, but the races were in (aren't they a press fit?) As you said, there aren't hubs for the rear drums, but I had all four turned anyway. Since they were all new, I guess I assumed all the drums were "out-of-round".
Gary MacDonald
ROGER's...
EX... '63 Hardtop
Had...
Scarebird front discs
200 w/ CI alum head
C4
I used to do all of this when I worked in a parts store that had a machine shop. We did everything there. Shops like this are few and far between these days, but they're out there.
Anyway, the studs need to first get pressed from the hub first and then the drum from the hub. Typically you risk warping the old drum doing this, so you only do it when putting on new drums. You can then drive the new drum over the hub that has new studs pressed in prior. You must press evenly around the hole in the center of the drum to keep it from warping - to do it right.
Edit: Many of the guys would use the lug nuts to pull in the studs and then to pull the new drum over the hub the same way. Not ideal. If you do this it is better to place the studs this way and then lay the drum over the hub and studs and then use a rim over it all to pull it together.
Turning front drums is with the races installed, but no bearing needed. The collets are variable in size and they will find one to fit the inner and outer races to find center and align it. The rear drum uses a single collet "cone" on the inside of the drum and a outer sleeve on the opposite side to center it for turning.
Most will say you don't need to turn new drums, but I always do and they are never as accurate as they will be after a focused (non production-line) assessment and turning.
Arching the shoes is also something we did back then - sadly back when I'm sure there was asbestos in the lining. Probably only a handful of shops even have this machine any more for this reason. It is a good thing to do for an instant match, but many of the old-timers I worked with and tutored under didn't advocate it; saying, the shoe wears in within a hundred or so miles anyway. But if they have the machine - shoes are safer material these days... I say go for it.
Last edited by Luva65wagon; August 6th, 2013 at 02:53 PM.
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
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