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  1. #1

    `62 winter projects

    I'm planning a few weekend projects to complete this winter and I'm looking for advice.

    1. I'd like to swap the stock 5/8" sway bar for a 1" or bigger. The only 1" I can find that says it is specifically for a `62 is from falconparts.com. $125 which includes polyurethane mount bushings with brackets and end links with poly bushings. I've seen some 1-1/8" but it says they fit `63-65 Falcons. And I'm sure I could find a cheaper one for the `64.5 Mustang but don't know if that would work.

    2. Strut rods. I've never dealt with the bushings and I'm assuming they're original. Would putting in some fresh rubber help or maybe poly? The rubber is intact but I'm sure they're hard as a rock.

    3. Monte Carlo bar. The only one I've found for a six-cylinder is from Delta Bay Mustang. $45 unpainted but I think I know a powder coater who works for cheap!

    4. Headers. I've had mine on for a year+ and the POR-15 coating I put on is not holding up. I think I'll take them to Performance Coatings in Auburn and have them done in ceramic. I'm hoping the fact that I've had them on for awhile won't matter. Looks like it will run about $200 but that should make them last as long as I'll be driving!

    Comments are welcome. I'm hoping the MC bar, beefier sway bar, and strut rod bushings will help with the cornering and improve the ride.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  2. #2
    1) I'm running a Mustang 1" anti-sway on the front of my 62 with poly bushings. It fit and works well. You're welcome to come over and take a look.

    2) Get new rubber bushings for this location. Don't use poly on stock strut rods. You can look at some of the rod-end style bars. I'm running Global West strut rods.

    3) MC bar is good. I think you have a good plan there. It's a nice place to lean when doing engine work. Maybe also look into the export brace. It really opens up the engine bay and makes the brake master much easier to access.

    4) There is no problem coating used headers unless you have rust holes. The coating will be inside and out. You can get it is a variety of colors.


    Get some roller spring perches. Also drop your upper control arms (aka Shelby Drop).
    Last edited by pbrown; November 1st, 2013 at 07:22 PM.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  3. #3
    Kenny, look up c3dz-16051-s at dennis-carpenter.com its 42.00 and powder coated. thats what I have...jh

  4. #4
    Thanks for the advice. I'll probably wait until after the XXX Jingle Bell Cruze to remove the headers and get them down to Performance Coatings.

    And I'll wait on the perches and Shelby drop until I do the Scarebird front disc conversion. Maybe next year??

    I'm not sure I could put a straight MC bar on mine. I like the big, stock air filter. The one from Delta Bay Mustang has a curve and is offset to the carb side of the engine. And the powder coating will hold up better if I'm always leaning on it!
    Attached Images Attached Images

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  5. #5

    One-inch sway bar

    Hello, Kenny.

    How hard and at what speed would you have to corner before you would notice the advantage of a one-inch sway bar (over the stock 5/8") plus a monte-carlo bar and/or an export brace?

    Those things would add weight to the car, and it seems that the condition and width of the tires would be more important to how hard you could corner than the front end on the car flexing. The speed that you can veer right and left is also limited by how fast you can turn your big 17-inch steering wheel with however many turns it takes (five?).

    I've never driven a Falcon with all that added, so I have no idea of the difference it would make. But, .... it just seems that the degree of flex of the front frame of the car would be a minor handling factor in comparison to the general condition of the springs, shock absorbers, ball joints, tie-rod and sway bar bushings, tire/wheel size, etc.

    Thanks, Dennis.
    Last edited by ew1usnr; November 2nd, 2013 at 08:19 PM.

  6. #6
    I'm not sure how much difference it would make since I've never experienced a before and after. Pat has made these mods (and many more) to his suspension so he may be able to say.

    Sometimes you just have to try it out and see if it helps. There's a loop on my route home from work that would be a good test. It goes from Harbor Island (or W. Seattle) to 99 North. That loop really makes it lean.

    My suspension parts are all fairly new. I did many of them a few years ago that had to do with steering and maybe 10 years ago had control arms and ball joints replaced. And I have it aligned and checked out at Tru-Line every few years or after some project that requires it.

    But I'll know more about condition and probably do some upgrades next year with the disk brake conversion. Maybe we'll make a tech day of it!

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

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