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  1. #1

    Welder needed

    Does anyone have recommendations for a welder in the area that would be able to do cast iron properly? I understand it's a little tricky to do right. I want to have a port divider welded in to the cylinder head (`82 200 six) I'm rebuilding.

    I want to get this done before I pay for any machining in case something happens.

    Thanks...

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  2. #2
    Hello Kenny,

    Have you heard of this stuff? It's supposed to make it a WHOLE lot easier to do welding on cast iron. When you do find a welder over on your side of the mountains, inquire of them if they know of/use this product. A little bit spendy but from what I gather...no hassle of super preheating and also wondering if it'll hold.

    http://www.muggyweld.com/castiron.html

    Later,

    Wazzusteve

  3. #3
    Have you asked Elliot if he could do it?
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  4. #4
    I haven't asked Eliot yet. Are you subscribed yet Eliot??

    Steve...I did come across that Muggy Weld when I was searching for info on welding cast iron. I don't know enough about welding to know if it sounds good but I will ask around. I will call the shop that's doing the machine work (Hill Machine Headworks) and see if they know of someone. He only has a little buzz box so didn't want to attempt it.

    I've also heard you need to heat the head to over 500 degrees, use a nickle rod and then cool it down very slowly. I've also read peening the weld will help. It sounds like I'll need to find someone who has some experience and special equipment.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    451

    Weld?

    I once got through to a not-too-helpful tech support person at Clifford when I was considering headers. He told me the port divider should be BRAZED in, not welded.
    Gary MacDonald
    ROGER's...
    EX... '63 Hardtop
    Had...
    Scarebird front discs
    200 w/ CI alum head
    C4

  6. #6
    I've also heard that brazing is an option. There's a lot of discussing about installing it (or NOT) on www.fordsix.com. The manifold that was originally on mine was brazed and it held up well. I'll let everyone know how it turns out. I haven't had time to call around yet but will try to next week.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  7. #7
    Hello first post,
    Yes you will want to use a good nickel rod if you decide on stick welding. Brazing works also and may be the way you might want to go. After the part has been repaired I would also send it off to have it resurfaced to make sure it didn’t warp causing problems down the road.
    I have repaired cast parts by welding with good results stick and brazing. If there is a crack that one is trying to fill you must first drill a small hole at each end of the crack or it will continue to crack as you weld.
    Brian
    Renton, Wa.

  8. #8
    Hi Brian,

    First off welcome to the forum. I had a few other projects come up so I haven't called around about finding a welder yet. I'm looking to weld in a port divider into the middle exhaust ports and it's before I've had any machine work done, other than hot tank and magnaflux.

    I'll add to this post with some photos when I finally get it done. Anyone know of a shop that does cast iron??

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

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