Speedometer cable

[doghows]

Speedo cable is pretty easy. Just have small hands and be a contorsionist. The hardest part is reaching up under the dash to screw or un screw it from the gauge cluster. The trans end should have a small clip with one bolt holding it on. Undo that and pull straight out and it should come right out.
Go for it, you should have no troubles.

[tjmcb]

Hey, thanks so much for the info.

I bought a new cable and C-clip; the cable has an attached kind of holder with a hole in it and 4"cushion piece around the cable. The end for the dash has a round nut and the tranny end has a push-in fitting with an 'O' do they come pre-lubed or should I add some?

[doghows]

Wouldn't hurt to put a touch if gear lube on the "o" ring. If it was an auto use trans fluid.

[Luva65wagon]

Speedo Cables, if new, are probably pre-lubed, but it never hurts to pull the cable out of the housing and check. Cables are lubed with a special grafite-based lubricant that you can find at most good auto stores, or online. In a pinch you can use Lock-ease, which is graphite based spray to help carry the lube down the housing. And as Steve said, a light film of oil on the o-ring.

[tjmcb]

Thank you so much for your info, I really like this forum

Tom

[BadBird]

I just replaced my speedo cable yesterday. The actual installation of the cable is a snap. Mine is pretty difficult because the cross member on the frame is right adjacent to the outlet on the Tremec transmission for the cable. The cable routes through the frame for a distance and exits through the bottom of the frame.

I originally ground out a section of the frame and thought is was okay, but I noticed a small leak around the speedo at the tranny and saw that when I lowered the tranny onto the support it bent the speedo housing and was causing it to leak around the o'ring.

I replaced the cable, ground out the hole quite a bit larger and it clears now. Don't let that scare you about installing a new cable. The actual cable install only takes 20 or so minutes. Larry

[tjmcb]

My plan was to replace the speedometer cable but in the course of several days here is what happened.

I stopped at the store and when I started up again I noticed that the temp. gauge was not working nor the fuel gage. Went online and ordered the newer style constant voltage regulator. I thought I'd just put that in along with the speedometer cable and just get into the dash once, also bought some new dash lights. Well, before the part came in the turn signals went out, meaning no blinking dash lights or blinkers outside.

So today I put in new speedo cable, all new dash lights, cv regulator and a new flasher.

Guess what the fuel and temp still don't work nor do the turn signals!?

Here's what seems odd-
Headlights work, stop lights/tail lights work, dash lights work and dim, horn works, gen and oil lights work.

What is going on here?

[tjmcb]

This seems like a good news and bad situation, on one side it seems I have found the area causing the problem but I not sure how to handle it now!

I spent most of the day today trying to locate the problem with my turn signals and have narrowed it to the ignition switch.

There are 2 wires(from a previous owner) connected to the screw in the center of the back of the ignition switch. The wires are not connected to anything else but are connected to this screw so they must have gone to something somewhere along the line. When I move either one of these wires the fuel and temp gages go to zero. If I move them around again the gages come to life. One of wires is substantial size and the other has one side of a fused connection on it.

My questions are-
Is this screw hot or is there something else going on behind the wiring cover?

How is this effecting the turn signals?

Should I just order a new switch and wiring cover?

Tom