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Thread: 1963 - 1965 V-8 original coil springs

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  1. #1
    On Rock Auto it seemed to call out a different part number than the 8088 on a 63 Falcon.

    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=7512

    I've just installed 8088's on my Ranchero - with 1 coil cut - to replace a pair only three years old. I installed a 65 front-end in my '63 Ranchero, so I just order '65 parts. But I found the original springs (said to be for a 65 wagon) to be very hard to install the first time (3 years ago) and had no choice to cut a coil out. When I got the 8088's a couple months ago to replace this 3 year old set (I just never got over the fact that they "had to be cut to fit in at all") I noted the 8088's were way more than 1 coil taller than the previous springs, but the wire was smaller too - so I took that into account. I still cut only 1 coil and it sits perfect.

    So springs are what they are. Too tall, cut them.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  2. #2

    Springs

    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    I found the original springs (said to be for a 65 wagon) to be very hard to install the first time (3 years ago) and had no choice to cut a coil out. When I got the 8088's a couple months ago to replace this 3 year old set (I just never got over the fact that they "had to be cut to fit in at all") I noted the 8088's were way more than 1 coil taller than the previous springs, but the wire was smaller too - so I took that into account. I still cut only 1 coil and it sits perfect.
    Hello, Roger.

    Were the three year old springs giving you any problems? Were they too stiff?
    What were they? (Brand and part number.)

    How do you cut the springs? Do you use a hack saw?
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by ew1usnr View Post
    How do you cut the springs? Do you use a hack saw?
    Cut the coils from the bottom of the springs where it meets the perch. The top is milled flat and needs to stay that way to fit inside the shock tower properly.

    I hacksaw works well but will be slow going. I usually use a cutoff wheel on a 1/4 air tool. An angle grinder or sawzall will also work. Cut both sides the same amount.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  4. #4
    Dennis,

    I really can't say why I changed them. More money than sense most likely.

    I will say, contrary to what Patrick indicated, the Moog 8088's I got were not milled flat. They were wound to seem flatter on one end, and a note inside said, in essence, this is just fine dandy - not to worry. The 3-year old springs were ground flat on one end.

    Not sure what NW Falcons sold back when they were in business, but that's where all the parts I bought off Craigslist came from. I do know the spring wire diameter was larger than the new 8088's. The 8088's with one coil cut off set the ride exactly where I wanted it.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Can you just compress the springs a bit and cut the springs while they are still on the car or do they have to come all the way off due to clearance for the saw/grinding disk?

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

  6. #6
    They should come out. Your already there - so much easier. I use a rotary cutoff wheel to make quick work of it.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  7. #7

    Springs

    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    I will say, contrary to what Patrick indicated, the Moog 8088's I got were not milled flat. They were wound to seem flatter on one end, and a note inside said, in essence, this is just fine dandy - not to worry. The 3-year old springs were ground flat on one end.

    The 8088's with one coil cut off set the ride exactly where I wanted it.
    Hello, Roger.

    The 8088's are described as being flat on one end (bottom) and tangential on the other. Here is a site that explains that tangential ends are the ones that can be cut: http://www.eatondetroitspring.com/cutting-coil-springs/

    When you say that cutting a coil "set the ride exactly where I wanted it", do you mean level or slightly nose down?
    Did the nose stick up initially? If so, by how much?
    How much (in inches) did cutting one coil lower the nose?
    Did the ride seem stiffer afterwards?

    Inquiring minds want to know.
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

  8. #8
    Dennis,

    Yes, the 8088's were "wound flat" meaning the wire was just bent on the end to make a flat-ish surface, meaning it would sit vertical if sat upside down on the floor. The others were actually ground to have an actual flat section of spring (spring wire in the shape of a 'D'). You do cut the opposite end.

    My problem was never really having the car in the "before" state and never measuring the car at all when it had the 3-year old springs. I can measure it now if that will help you? With the 8088's with one coil cut in a V8 car.

    The 3 year old springs were fine with the 6 cyl that was in it, perhaps a bit on the stiff side, but sat a little lower once paired with the V8, which was fine. You can see my sig pic: that was with a 6 cyl and the 3 year old springs (1 year old at the time, or less). Unfortunately that picture also had the new "wagon" rear leafs and Monroe SensaTracs, which had coil-overs too. Way too high and stiff in the back for what will mostly always be a lightly loaded truck at best. With the regular shocks in back it ws a way better ride, but was still too high in back.

    When I redid the front-end this last time I also lowered the rear another inch for a total of 2" using shims I got from Doghows (Steve).

    Right now, apart from needing to figure a way to move the rear-end forward in my wheel flare another inch, I like the stance. I can't move the rear-end forward yet because there is no way to "key" into the leaf and rear-end with aftermarket lowering blocks as easily. They are mostly hollow extruded rectangular tube cut to length. Because my "wheel flare" requires the tire to center into the flare - the one downside of this mod - I need to shorten my drive-line 1 inch and machine billet spacer blocks with special holes and pins to key the rear-end exactly where I want it. It's jury-rigged at the moment, but still off-set back about an inch more than I'd like it. I notice it all the time, which bugs me, and now everyone else will now that I've called attention to it.

    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    977
    Roger, could you drill a second depression in the "shims" to move the banjo where you want it?


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, EFI, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    My problem was never really having the car in the "before" state and never measuring the car at all when it had the 3-year old springs. I can measure it now if that will help you? With the 8088's with one coil cut in a V8 car.
    Hello, Roger.

    I used a tape measure and and found that with my new springs the inner edge of top of the bumper where it wraps around the left fender is now at 22 ½”.

    What is the height of the top of your bumper measured at the same spot?

    Thanks, Dennis.
    Last edited by ew1usnr; September 17th, 2014 at 03:05 AM.
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

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