^1962 Ford Falcon Futura 302 overheating issues

[SmithKid]

Dennis,
I'm pretty certain that '60 through '65 engine compartments were all the same, with the exception that torque boxes were added to the newer chassis (not certain which years) for the V-8 equipped units, and suspension components were beefed up for the extra weight/torque. Others on here may be more certain than me about the torque boxes, but my '65 is so equipped.
Gene

[Luva65wagon]

Dennis - Gene is correct regarding the engine bay sizing. 60-65 were all identical and use the same mounts and have all the same squeeze issues getting more than "stock" to fit in their bay. AC in general, when running, will tax the system a bit and depending on how efficient the system is, may just push it over the edge. I put a 289 bored .060 over into my '63 and fought like heck to get it to run cool - though it never spewed (which most folks gauge as the point to where you say "It's overheating.") The 347 I put in last summer doesn't run much cooler, but I'm not really done installing it. Well, I am, but lets say it was a rush swap and didn't have time to address a few issues with the swap and I'm gearing up to yank it again and address those - and the heating issues - this summer.

It's tough to get cooling fans in front of a round body radiator, though I did it. It's documented in my Ranchero build thread here. I didn't have a condenser in front of the radiator to contend with, but it's a good size fan and pushed a lot of air.

Anyway, here's a couple things to consider; just off the top of my head. I may think of others and add to this:

Water pump: You indicated having serpentine belt, so does that mean you have a reverse rotation pump? And if so, is it? Hard to tell on the outside. Also, there are better pumps like Gene and I use from FlowCooler.

Pulleys: Make sure, no matter what pump you run, the pulley on the water pump and crank are near 1:1 and not undersized.

Fan: Reverse pump means fan blade needs to be the right type as well. If it applies.

Shroud: Do you have one? A shroud is essential to making sure the fan you have is doing what it can do. They are hard to install and so many don't use them because of this hassle. I don't, but sure want to. Just haven't found one to fit, yet. Ideally, you get a great pull electric fan with a built in shroud. Two birds, and all that.

Timing: Make sure you're not running retarded for most of the curve and especially at idle. If in doubt, check it.

Transmission: It's not clear in this thread whether you're running automatic or manual, but if automatic it may be using the radiator as it's cooler. I tend to avoid that and use a dedicated transmission cooler.

Antifreeze and additives: WaterWetter helps. Antifreeze is really only good for corrosion and not much for cooling. Plain water has a better heat transfer property than antifreeze. So make sure your mix isn't too rich on the antifreeze side. You can do without it around here, for the most part, if you use a dedicated corrosion inhibitor.

More as it comes to me...

[dennis mcgeough]

Thank you for all your helpful information. I really appreciate it! I'll try to respond to as much as I can but my knowledge is limited. The pulley's are fine. So I can't mount a fan in front of the AC condenser, we've established that. The fans I have on there are insufficient (two 10") under powered. Thinking about a 16" but it would have to be mounted off center so as not to interfere with the water pump pulley or two 12 inch fans, staggered. Unfortunately there isn't enough room for a shroud. I'll probably have to have the timing tinkered with again. I drove it today ant the temp got up to 224 by where the water goes into the radiator. When I got on it a bit going up a hill it pinged and sounded bad. Otherwise it responds fine when I get on it a little. I'm just not sure what else I can do if a better fan set up doesn't work. Another thing is that when I get on it I can actually feel the heat being pushed into the cab.

[dave]

Here is what I run for what it is worth on my 1964 - 3 core Champion aluminum radiator with their shroud, and a 16" DeltaPag brushless pull fan kit with their controller. This combo runs about 190 degrees. I don't have anything in front of the radiator and no A/C. My engine is a mild street build [471 HP on the dyno]. It is a 363 Dart block with Trickflow aluminum heads. I always use non-ethanol premium gas. There is about 3/8" between the fan hub and the pulley on my serpentine belt system that uses a Ford Racing water pump. I don't like to hear about your engine pinging - try premium gas and maybe reduce the timing [I think too much advance will in itself make it run hotter]. As for the temperature, the radiator guys always say if it isn't puking, it's usually OK. Also, maybe test your temp gauge. Dave

[Luva65wagon]

With Dennis' indication of "running odd" when it gets hot, it's probably getting hot. You could start the car (running with Don's comment about the thermostat) with the radiator cap off and get the engine to temp and make sure there is water flow through the radiator. It should be visible. Also, make sure your lower hose has a spring in it so it doesn't collapse.

I agree also with Dave when I read about the ping, but a hot motor will ping as well. Could be too advanced, which will cause a ping (with today's gas especially), but so with a more than too hot engine.

It is sort of a misnomer that anything over 180 degrees is overheating. Motor wear and such decreases with higher temps, so as Dave indicated "if it ain't spewing, it's probably not overheating..." but when the engine behaves hot, it doesn't necessarily have to break the seals to do so.

You have lots of things to check without changing a thing as of yet, just gotta step through them.

[dennis mcgeough]

Luva65, thanks for your input. I'v got more things to have checked out now. Hopefully they will reveal something definitive.

[dennis mcgeough]

Thanks Dave for your thoughts. My mechanic adjusts the carb here and there depending on the symptoms I tell him about. I Know the temp is getting up in the 220s where the water comes back into the radiator. We've played with the timing also. I run Chevron high test only. I really appreciate all who have responded to my overheating problem.