'62 Falcon Refresh

[dkutz]

Update. Bob is running again. New float and needle and fired right up no stumble no hesitation. So I guess Bob is a Holley man.

[dkutz]

Well, sadly Bob is winning the "make life rough on Dieter" game. He received the carburetor I sent him only to find the thing flooded. The "new" float I used leaked - even after testing it here before shipping it. So I sent another, after testing and setting it up on another 1100 I have, and it still ran like crap. So after a couple dozen forth and back PM's trying to sort things - I had him send it back with the agreement if I had an Ah Ha! discovery I'd fix it and send it back. I couldn't find anything other than the float I sent was somehow bent between "here and here."

Attachment 7507

This is how it was setup when I set it up on the mock carburetor here. You bend the small tab, not the long arm, to adjust it. You want the float near level:

Attachment 7508

Because I wasn't sure that would have caused the issue he was having with it (it still measured close to the right height, though backwards) - he's back to square one with his old one, which oddly didn't run correctly when it was reinstalled either. He just got the parts to fix it today, so he'll have to ring in on the outcome of that.

So yesterday I came across a Facebook thread about these new China 1100 carburetors (I've been eying them a long while) and a couple guys are saying they've had good luck with them.

So, Dieter, here's an offer. If you get one of these and it doesn't work... I'll buy it off you. I've been wanting to get one just to see how well they're made, or not. So, it might be a win/win for you either way. If it works... WIN! If it doesn't... I'll buy it off you. WIN! (Almost).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...Cclp%3A2334524

The only thing about it (from the ad photo) is they have the choke cable coming in from the wrong (passenger) side. This should be reversible by removing the clip on the fast idle cam to remove it and then the screw/stud behind removed and the choke clamp flipped as well as the cam. Or just get the longer choke cable and approach it from the passenger side as it's setup. It has the Spark Advance Control Valve on it (assuming it's doing the right thing), so it should work. I can't find any other specs on it.

Anyway, sorry mine didn't work for you, but maybe the new eBay one will?

great offer roger. I think I will stick with this carb for now. Bob seems to like it best.

[Luva65wagon]

Yeah. I get not missing what you've never had. I had the exact same carb as the you (Holley 1940) on my wagon with a 200 and it didn't have the spark control either - for a long time. Didn't know about it. When I finally put the correct carburetor on, totally changed the car.

Get that transmission issue resolved and then maybe circle back around.

[dkutz]

Yeah. I get not missing what you've never had. I had the exact same carb as the you (Holley 1940) on my wagon with a 200 and it didn't have the spark control either - for a long time. Didn't know about it. When I finally put the correct carburetor on, totally changed the car.

Get that transmission issue resolved and then maybe circle back around.

definitely waiting till I get the trans sorted before I do anything else with the carb. Just gun shy now, because Bob just didn't like the 1100.

[dkutz]

Just got Bob back from trans shop. They fabricated a longer rod for the piece that connect the zbar and pushes the throw out fork. It’s better now, and at least driveable. Still not perfect, it I suspect once the clutch wears a little it will be even better. He seems to think the clutch I picked is too thick. Whatever, at least I can drive it

[Luva65wagon]

Hopefully they didn't just mask a deeper issue as I mentioned long ago (uneven pressure plate release). That will cause the clutch disc to wear really quick. You should have had more than enough adjustment at the z-bar assuming you had a stock clutch rod at the transmission. Maybe you didn't. But it is true as the clutch wears it will require adjustment in the direction you have available. Hope it works out well for you no matter what.

[dkutz]

Hopefully they didn't just mask a deeper issue as I mentioned long ago (uneven pressure plate release). That will cause the clutch disc to wear really quick. You should have had more than enough adjustment at the z-bar assuming you had a stock clutch rod at the transmission. Maybe you didn't. But it is true as the clutch wears it will require adjustment in the direction you have available. Hope it works out well for you no matter what.

guess we will find out. at least its driveable, and worse comes to worse I will have to replace the clutch soon. Not a biggie

[dkutz]

Well a couple weeks with Bob back from the trans shop, and he seems better. Still grinds slightly into 2nd and third. I MAY try synthetic trans oil, and see if that helps. The syncro fired the other day and I was so happy, I think it may just need to be warmed up.

But of course not all is great. I drove him on the freeway for the first time in a while and noticed that the shift lever moves around with road bumps and movement. Its moving with the transmission, so not really sure whats going on. Roger suggested (after sending him pics) that the spring cantilever mount is not set up right. it is missing a rubber washer and has a lock nut on the donut bolt. I suspect that the rubber insulator in the support bracket is either broken or missing as well. I think I will replace the whole assembly. especially since I can't find the parts individually.

I found some diagrams for the assembly so I will post them here for Roger!
transmount.jpg
transmount2.jpg
transmount3.jpg