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Thread: Trans linkage adjustment

  1. #16
    Yeah those pins are loose just don't know the best way to fix it

  2. #17
    They can fail pretty quickly. They are 60 years old... and brass.

    Anyway, you're learning.

    You should be able to - at rest, engine off - push this lever going into the transmission bell housing, by hand, and the rod will fall relaxed into the well it is in. If you can't move the clutch lever at all by hand (taking up the play between the clutch lever/throw-out bearing and the fingers of the pressure plate) then FOR SURE the clutch adjustment is way too tight. You must have free play. All other issues of clutch disengagement or syncho failures are MOOT if you can't have free play -and- disengagement.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by dkutz View Post
    Yeah those pins are loose just don't know the best way to fix it
    This pin, if loosy goosy, will play havoc with adjusting free play. Not so much with disengagement, since you can take up the play in at least one direction or the other. But I would take this clutch rod off that part, release the return spring, and look and see what is going on. This was originally a welded on pin part of the Z-bar, with a hole for a retaining clip. One side seems to be threaded, like it's a bolt or something - so what is this thing they have cobbled into where there used to be a welded in pin/pivot?
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  4. #19
    OK - I may be wrong. Here is a picture I found of a 6 cyl Falcon Z-bar. The V8 was welded and on the other side. This shows the same thing as yours. Will have to dig into this a bit to see how this part can get loose like this. What is the purpose of the threaded side???

    But the other part of my suggestion is still relevant.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
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    I think Roger has nailed (part) of the oroblem. My tranny is not so far adjusted.
    I can see that exess free play in that pin will muck up your adjustment. I,d bet that if that pin is fixed in place you will have the adjustment nut side of the z bar with nuch more thread.

    When I did my tranny I had to shim some connections to get them to move without free play.
    Maybe you can shim the other end of that connection so that the bolt sits secured
    Last edited by Falcongek; February 7th, 2021 at 11:49 AM. Reason: typo/thick finger syndrome

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Falcongek View Post
    I think Roger has nailed (part) of the oroblem. My tranny is not so far adjusted.
    I can see that exess free play in that pin will muck up your adjustment. I,d bet that if that pin is fixed in place you will have the adjustment nut side of the z bar with nuch more thread.

    When I did my tranny I had to shim some connections to get them to move without free play.
    Maybe you can shim the other end of that connection so that the bolt sits secured
    oh you guys are looking at something else, I thought you were talking about the shift rods not the zbar. Now I need to go look

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    It does appear you're reaching near the end of any travel that clutch lever can travel. It should be fully disengaging long before that. So it is either the pressure plate or the #2 synchro. I would venture a guess you are not fully releasing the clutch with the adjustments as they are. And have zero free play, meaning your throw-out bearing is always riding on the pressure plate fingers.

    There is one thing in one of the pics that would concern me. Not sure how this pin is fitted, but it sure looks un-right. I doubt it is causing the shift issues, but it is an issue if that thing is loose enough to pivot forth and back to this degree.
    worn out? Nah it’s fine!! Ha ha. For now I stuck a bolt in it, but I don’t like that I don’t have a way to lock it in place. Would also be nice to get a new pin but not sure it made.

    A9D79F4C-BDD9-410C-A949-3F942E208AF3.jpg
    EEF8AC8C-A0B3-43A7-8113-30FB1261DF4B.jpg

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Netherlands, Europe
    Posts
    62
    Nothing a wee bit of JB weld can't fix....

    Can't you get a bolt with a hole for a cotter pin, of fab one yourself?

    I'm wondering how much adjustment you've got on the Z bar after fixing this "minor" wear issue.

    Good luck with the fix.

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