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Thread: Dash Knob Removal

  1. #1
    Cutman Guest

    Question Dash Knob Removal

    Hey Gang...
    I have a Falcon manual and it says nothing about how to get the dash knobs out of the dash. I am haveing the car painted in and want those removed rather than masked and painted around. Thanks for the help.
    Rob

  2. #2
    Most of them should just have a nut on the back. Once you unscrew it and detach the cable from whatever it was operating, the whole cable should slide out.

    The ignition switch is a bit different. I believe you put a key in and turn in to "ACC" then you stick a stiff wire (paperclip works good) into a small hole you'll see on the front of the switch and push in. Continue turning past "ACC" one click and pull the key and tumbler assembly out. I don't remember if that needs to be removed to take out the switch assembly but it's a good thing to know.

    The headlight switch also has the fuse box behind it. You need to reach around and on the side of the fuse box is a small push button. Push that in and pull out the knob and stem. Then you need to find a really wide screwdriver and turn the bezel counter-clockwise while holding the fuse box assembly.

    Hope that makes sense. If you run into a specific problem just holler!

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  3. #3
    Be carefull with the bezels. Ther are not being reproduced for roundbodies. There is a special tool to remove them that you can get from www.falconparts.com. You can use a flat screwdriver but the risk of damage is high.

    The choke has a nut on the rear.

    The wiper uses a set screw to take the knob off of the shaft.

    The headlight knob is removed by pressing a small button behind the dash above the switch and pulling the knob out. Then use the special tool to remove the bezel.

    I haven't has the oportunity to remove the others but I'm sure that it will be similar to the others.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  4. #4
    Cutman Guest
    Thanks guys... I will try tomorrow. If I get hung up I was post again. Take care,
    Rob

  5. #5
    Cutman Guest

    Dash knob removal... Success!

    Thanks for the info guys...
    All your info was right on. One thing I found that helped a bunch was removing the dash speaker grill and acesss the backs of the knobs through there. Not having the proper tool... the very pointed needle nose pliers worked like a charm. With all the knobs removed I had time to cut out and weld up the ign. hole (my ignition is now on the tilt column).
    Thanks so much...
    Rob

  6. #6

    Cool info

    I am going to be doing the same thing very soon, this is very useful!

  7. #7
    The_DropOut Guest
    Thanks for the post, this is will come in handy in the near future.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    828
    Thanks to this post, I got all these gizmos figured out before bed time EXCEPT the ignition switch bezel. I was able to follow Kenny's instruction and remove the lock cylinder, but didn't get the bezel yet. It seems to be sort of spring loaded on there. Anyone happen to know what the rest of the trick is on this one?
    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,363
    I think it is a two hand operation. One hand holds the chrome bezel tight against the dash and you use the other hand to reach behind and compress a spring loaded collar and give it a 90 degree turn.

    It has been a while so don't roast me if I'm wrong.

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    828

    Smile

    That was it, thanks Jeff!
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,363
    Glad it worked. I pulled one of my spares out if a box today and saw it wasn't exactly as I remembered. The spring is on the switch assembly and not a collar. Here are pictures to help the next guy.
    Attached Images Attached Images

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    938
    There is actually a tool to remove the bezel. My original was stuck to the dash and I ruined it trying to get it to turn. I bought a new bezel and the took to re-assemble. I have it around here somewhere if any one wants to borrow it (I hope I can find it... it's been a long time).


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

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