It's been awhile!

[Sedanman]

Hi guys,

Just thought I'd stop in, say hi, and see what's new around here. I've been busy moving (again) to a place in south Bellevue the past several weeks, and luckily have a garage. It's nice to finally be settling in new place and catching up with things/people. I don't plan to be doing much with the Falcon in the near future as I'm short on funds, but at least it's inside and out of the weather. I probably will be going to a few events at the XXX in Issaquah as the show season gets underway since it's a short drive from here.

I'd like to be doing more for/with the club, as well as my Falcon, but am going to be continuing to focus on other things - esp. school/getting back to work as well as physical therapy for some ongoing knee problems. Without work, I won't have the falcon for long

I look forward to seeing you guys and gals at some events this summer, and will continue to check in here/come to meetings as I'm able. See you around!

[Luva65wagon]

Thor,

Well... you're just over the 520 brindge from the BurgerMaster -- so I hope to see you there at a few meetings.

FWIW, you offer a great deal of insight on the Falcon and so we hope you can keep the car and see it to fruition some day. Don't be afraid to ask for help on it too.

Also, hope you figured out if it was the battery or the starter...

[Sedanman]

Thanks, Roger - sorry I didn't make the meeting but I can only make so many trips to Seattle a week. If we have a meeting at the Kirkland Burgermaster or XXX, I'll be sure to be there.

I hope I get to keep it too, although factoring the unknowns about the Fastback into the equation it's anybody's guess. What it really needs is the head pulled to extract the broken manifold bolts, and probably a head rebuild. I need to find out if the bottom end is good before doing that in case I need a full rebuild - neither are really in my budget for now though.

I may however do some front end work on it this summer - I have new coils to put in, and probably need to replace the upper a-arms. we'll see. As for the starting issue, I haven't had much time to work on it but did charge the battery again this past week and left the cables disconnected until yesterday. It started right up so I took it for a drive. I pulled the cables off again afterwards, and will try starting it in a few days. If it starts, I will drive it again and then leave the cables connected and see what happens.

[Nathan289]

Thor,
Do your horns work?.. My ranchero doesn;t have the horns and recently we started noticing a clicking noise.. I traced the noise down to the horn relay tripping.. maybe the relay is causing the drain in your falcon?

Just an Idea..

Nathan

[Jeff W]

I have always disconnected the battery cable and used a 12 volt test light between the "now removed" battery cable and the "now vacant" battery post. If there is a trickle draw somewhere, the test light will glow. The brighter it is, the higher the draw. You can then start disconnecting things, like fuses, and when the light goes out, you have at least located the area to probe deeper.

You would have to disconnect constant draw items like a clock or a modern radio.

[Sedanman]

Hi guys,

I somehow missed your responses in my inbox - too many meetup group e-mails! I did try and start it the other day, and it barely started. I haven't time to do anything more (brother's been in the hospital and other stuff) so will probably throw the charger on it again, and then wait a week or two and see if the battery holds a charge. I'm better at mechanics than this electrical stuff - why can't my carb leak or something?

Jeff - so you're saying you put one end of a lead on the battery, and one on the cable? Isn't that just extending the cable, or am I missing something? I don't have a clock or stereo with one - just one simple tape deck from 1985.

Nathan - a horn? What's that? I need to buy a new steering wheel adapter as mine's bunged up and the wires gone....

[kentdaryl]

I have always disconnected the battery cable and used a 12 volt test light between the "now removed" battery cable and the "now vacant" battery post. If there is a trickle draw somewhere, the test light will glow. The brighter it is, the higher the draw. You can then start disconnecting things, like fuses, and when the light goes out, you have at least located the area to probe deeper.

You would have to disconnect constant draw items like a clock or a modern radio.

I've done the same thing only using a seat belt buzzer, that way you don't even need to look up from what you're doing as you pull fuses.