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August 15th, 2009, 09:31 PM
#1
Thor,
Removing the valves is not even an option if you are porting anything -- it is required. You'll have to clean everything up thoroughly when you do this type of job. Then, if you are removing the valves you must, at the very least, lap them -- and as Kenny said -- keep them in order.
FWIW I worked in an automotive machine shop for about 3 years just out of high school and did probably a dozen heads a week there (that was my deal) -- so you can't rush this sort of thing. We lapped every head we did regardless of the valves being new or ground in the shop -- and then did a solvent leak check before delivering them. The difference between a smooth running engine and one that is not is often at the mercy of the condition of the valves and we rarely had a rework job. If you're going to take it apart, do it right.
If you do nothing else, if this is a used head, you should borrow that spring compressor, lap the valves and replace the valve seals. A hand lapper and some Clover lapping compound will cost you maybe $15...
And of course if you pull the valves you should check the guides for excessive play and... and... and...
Last edited by Luva65wagon; August 15th, 2009 at 09:33 PM.
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
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August 16th, 2009, 12:38 PM
#2
Thor,
Maybe a dumb idea but have you thought about having it done? The guy that built my engine is Dave Bliss at 253-847-2742. He is in Spanaway, does great work and I am sure he would do all or part for a fair price. Why buy a bunch of expensive tools you will never use again. Just my .02
Jerry
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