C-4 trans pan sealing

[Sedanman]

I asked about this on the Ford six forum, and the answers are so varied I can't decide what way to go - here's the thread;

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=58600

Any more suggestions? I'm tired of redoing this every couple thousand miles..

T

[redfalken]

Mine has a cork gasket with no sealer and doesn't leak (around the pan anyway). I think I may have something leaking elsewhere though. Maybe the front seal.

Is the Scott Drake pan sheet metal? I think that thread covered about every trick in the book but I've always found if it's sheet metal, you have to peen the area around the bolt holes back out each and every time you reinstall. Makes a big difference.

You could also try getting a fine grit stone they use for honing knives and run that around the surface of the case where it meets the pan to make sure it's good and smooth. I did that to my valve body before I installed it and you would be surprised at how many factory defects there are. If you have a straight edge, check the pan and the case to see if anything strange is going on.

After the new seal is installed, clean everything off real good and go get a can of spray on athlete's foot powder. Spray it around where the pan meets the case and go for a ride. Then see where it's leaking if it still is. A common leak spot is where the dipstick tube goes into the case and that might run down along the pan edge, making you think the pan seal is leaking.

[Sedanman]

Yeah, it's a steel pan - I couldn't find stock depth aluminum pan at the time, although some of the guys now are saying there is such a thing. Car's too low for a deep pan...

I know my servo cover on one side is leaking just a tad, but not enough to cause what's going on now. Some of the F-6 guys are suggesting a heavy duty aviation gasket sealer, so I may put that on the pan side before installing. They swear it doesn't leak, but is a pain to scrape off when time to change fluid again so I won't put it on the trans side where there's soft aluminum to avoid scraping on later.

Thanks for the reminder about the dipstick tube - that's easy enough to replace while the trans is drained; Much harder later ;0)

[BadBird]

Talked to my brother who has worked on these for years. He says the sealant is the way to go. Wouldn't it solve a lot of problems about scraping off the sealant if you have a pan with a drain plug? Not sure.

[redfalken]

The recommended interval to change tranny fluid is every 30,000 miles. That's probably 4 or 5 years for me and I drive 25 miles round trip every weekday to work. How often do you drive your Falcon?

If your car's sitting low already, I wouldn't want a drain plug sticking down that could hit something and tear a hole in the pan. I'd say use sealant if that solves your problem, plan on spending an hour or two cleaning off sealant every 10(?) years, and be done with it.

[Sedanman]

Black Falcon - the drain plug only makes it easier to drain; You still have to pull the pan to change the filter.

Kenny - Yeah, I've been there with the drainplug issue on my first falcon; Funny thing is, I sold the car, and that pan with the ruined plug ended up on the trans I bought for this car from one of the old club members over ten years ago! You're right about the fluid change intervals, but I figure trans fluid is like motor oil (maybe I'm wrong) that with age there are more contaminants so if you don't drive it much you still need to change it. But I've never had a leak free trans for that long....

[Luva65wagon]

Not sure why I didn't see this thread -- but tranny pan gaskets should not need to be sealed at the tranny. Typically all I've ever done is:

a) make sure the pan is flat. If it's sheetmetal, then the bolt-holes get deformed when you tighten the bolts. So out with the hammer and dolly to make sure these are knocked back out flat again.

b) apply permatex (I use the black 2b stuff, with seems best for in-oil applications) only to the pan side and adhere the gasket to that. The main reason for this is when you want to drain the fluid you will curse the day you glued that pan on tight and have to pry it off while it's getting all warped and you're red with fluid all over you.

c) The gasket is cork and/or rubber. Don't over-tighten it. Just snug is best. The number one reason for leaks here is from over-tightening.

d) Make sure the tranny surface is cleaned and bolt the pan on as mentioned in c - just snug.

e) as for any other gaskets -- seal away. They only need ever be removed during more serious servicings, so only make sure the sealant doesn't goop inside.

I've done maybe 50 pan-gasket changes so far and rarely does anything leak. Things may seep over time, but this usually means just to snug the bolts up again. Eventually this will, again, deform the pan and it's time for the change again.

As for oil going bad, it is heat that oxidizes oil, not time as much. If you don't drive much you could probably go 5 years without changing it -- maybe more. If the oil still looks and smells good -- it is good. You can smell rancid oil.

That's my 2 1/2 cents, with inflation.

[Sedanman]

Hi Roger,

I've continued to get many varied answers at the Ford six board; Had decided cork was the best way to go, but can't find one anywhere - the filter kits come with rubber which I've had worse luck with. I got some of the Permatex Avaition sealer to put on the pan side of the gasket, as it dries hard and won't squeeze in and clog up the valve body. The last time I put it together it was a brand new pan with a rubber gasket, so who knows why it leaked.

Things have been delayed, though. I was planning on applying my POR 15 engine paint today, only to read that the directions say " wait 4-6 days before starting engine". So much for the car show I was doing this for on Sunday I also found out when I called POR that the exh manifold needs to be sand blasted first, so that wil be next week's project. Hopefully I get to drive this before end of summer...