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  #196  
Old 12-23-2012, 06:05 AM
falcon cobra falcon cobra is offline
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Hey guy I thought this might help....jh
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  #197  
Old 01-03-2013, 06:40 AM
Guy Monjure Guy Monjure is offline
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Happy New Year to all,

Have not done much over the holidays, but did manage to install the new battery, voltage regulator, and ignition switch. Turned the key and nothing happened. Jumped the solinod and the engine turned over. Going to get a new solinod the week. Get it installed and hope for the best.

Thanks for the help,
Guy
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  #198  
Old 01-04-2013, 12:14 AM
modified17 modified17 is offline
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I don't know if I remember this right or not but I remeber having this problem years ago. You might try swapping the two small wires on the solinoid. I think one wire is from the key to engages the solinoid and the other is to give the coil a straight shot of 12 volts to help the spark on cold starts.
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  #199  
Old 01-07-2013, 11:53 AM
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Luva65wagon Luva65wagon is offline
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A simple voltage test can be done rather than trying new part after new part. Pull both little wires off the solenoid. When you turn the key to the start position, make sure the wire to the solenoid with 12 volts to it is the one you put on the 'S' terminal. The 'I' terminal only gets 12 volts - out that terminal - fed from the BAT terminal while in the Start position. This to feed full 12 volts to the coil on start. Once you let off the key to the Run position, the coil gets about 9 volts through the resistance wire from the switch to the coil. The solenoid work is done at that point and at all other times other than START there is nothing happening at the solenoid other than 12 V at the bat terminal (because it is still hooked to the battery) and the 9 V (being fed backwards from the coil) to the 'I' terminal. The voltage there doesn't feed or do anything.

Really sorry this issue is not resolving itself simply.
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63 "Flarechero"
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Last edited by Luva65wagon; 01-07-2013 at 11:55 AM. Reason: poilish
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  #200  
Old 01-19-2013, 04:21 PM
Guy Monjure Guy Monjure is offline
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Thanks for the help,

I did get a new solenoid, installed it, turned the key to 'ON' and the generator and oil lights come on. But when I turn it to 'START' nothing happens. I will check if I am getting 12V on the 'S' terminal when the key is in the 'START' position. At this point I am wondering if the new ignition switch is good.

I will say, it is getting harder to get out in the cold shop, especially when I cannot get anything to work!
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  #201  
Old 01-19-2013, 04:45 PM
falcon cobra falcon cobra is offline
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Hi guy..do you have a wire diagram for your car? if you were closer I would come by but....unhook the small start wire from the sol. turn key to start and check to see if voltage goes to the sol....jh
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  #202  
Old 01-25-2013, 12:35 PM
Guy Monjure Guy Monjure is offline
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Who you guys pulling far in the Super Bowl?

I monitored both the small coil wirers individually for 12V with the key at 'START'. No voltage on them. I do have 12V at the back of the new ignition switch. I am thinking the new switch is bad because the ignition circuit closed and started the car with the old ignition switch. The old switch had to be replaced because after starting with the key back in at 'ON' the starter would not stop running.

Any thoughts,
Guy
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  #203  
Old 01-25-2013, 01:07 PM
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doghows doghows is offline
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Put the old switch back in and check you wires on the start solenoid. Mine did the same thing and I had the wires switched on the starter solenoid.
My 2c. Roger where are you???
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  #204  
Old 01-28-2013, 04:39 PM
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Luva65wagon Luva65wagon is offline
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Where am I? Right here.

This is very frustrating, even for me. I have a painfully clear understanding on how this starting system works, but it is hard to relay concepts like this via a forum - or even a wiring diagram.

This is a very simple system. Painfully so. Even still, systematic approaches must be followed to determine what a failure might be; like, the switch.

What I would do is break this up into two tasks:
1) Diagnose the cranking circuit.
2) Diagnose the starting circuit.

Use the attached wiring diagram. Make sure the wires as seen at the switch match what you see in the diagram. Then follow the wire on the diagram to the other end. Check voltages there.
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63 "Flarechero"
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powered by: Classic Inlines 200-6 | C4 | 7.25 rear


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  #205  
Old 02-08-2013, 08:31 AM
Guy Monjure Guy Monjure is offline
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Unhappy

Thanks guys. If it is not to cold I will try and resolve this haunting issue. I want to get on with my next step, pulling the gas tank and restoring the trunck. My passion, and the reason I love the hobby so much is I love to make old things new again. This electrical sh#* is really getting me down.

Thanks again,
Guy
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  #206  
Old 02-08-2013, 01:39 PM
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BPVan BPVan is offline
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This might help reinforce what Roger is saying:

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  #207  
Old 02-08-2013, 01:44 PM
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Jeff W Jeff W is offline
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"Relay has to be grounded" ... maybe all that nice new paint and powdercoated fasteners are isolating the grounding ears on the relay?
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  #208  
Old 02-08-2013, 06:11 PM
Guy Monjure Guy Monjure is offline
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Red face

I will run a tap through the threads where the relay mounts for a good ground. This is encouraging, we'll see. I'll get back to you'll next week.

Thanks guys,
Guy
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  #209  
Old 02-08-2013, 10:39 PM
modified17 modified17 is offline
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You could run a #12 wire sraight from the solinode body to the negitive side of the battery. That way you get a better ground than the body. Just a idea.
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