`62 winter projects

[redfalken]

I'm planning a few weekend projects to complete this winter and I'm looking for advice.

1. I'd like to swap the stock 5/8" sway bar for a 1" or bigger. The only 1" I can find that says it is specifically for a `62 is from falconparts.com. $125 which includes polyurethane mount bushings with brackets and end links with poly bushings. I've seen some 1-1/8" but it says they fit `63-65 Falcons. And I'm sure I could find a cheaper one for the `64.5 Mustang but don't know if that would work.

2. Strut rods. I've never dealt with the bushings and I'm assuming they're original. Would putting in some fresh rubber help or maybe poly? The rubber is intact but I'm sure they're hard as a rock.

3. Monte Carlo bar. The only one I've found for a six-cylinder is from Delta Bay Mustang. $45 unpainted but I think I know a powder coater who works for cheap!

4. Headers. I've had mine on for a year+ and the POR-15 coating I put on is not holding up. I think I'll take them to Performance Coatings in Auburn and have them done in ceramic. I'm hoping the fact that I've had them on for awhile won't matter. Looks like it will run about $200 but that should make them last as long as I'll be driving!

Comments are welcome. I'm hoping the MC bar, beefier sway bar, and strut rod bushings will help with the cornering and improve the ride.

[pbrown]

1) I'm running a Mustang 1" anti-sway on the front of my 62 with poly bushings. It fit and works well. You're welcome to come over and take a look.

2) Get new rubber bushings for this location. Don't use poly on stock strut rods. You can look at some of the rod-end style bars. I'm running Global West strut rods.

3) MC bar is good. I think you have a good plan there. It's a nice place to lean when doing engine work. Maybe also look into the export brace. It really opens up the engine bay and makes the brake master much easier to access.

4) There is no problem coating used headers unless you have rust holes. The coating will be inside and out. You can get it is a variety of colors.


Get some roller spring perches. Also drop your upper control arms (aka Shelby Drop).

[falcon cobra]

Kenny, look up c3dz-16051-s at dennis-carpenter.com its 42.00 and powder coated. thats what I have...jh

[redfalken]

Thanks for the advice. I'll probably wait until after the XXX Jingle Bell Cruze to remove the headers and get them down to Performance Coatings.

And I'll wait on the perches and Shelby drop until I do the Scarebird front disc conversion. Maybe next year??

I'm not sure I could put a straight MC bar on mine. I like the big, stock air filter. The one from Delta Bay Mustang has a curve and is offset to the carb side of the engine. And the powder coating will hold up better if I'm always leaning on it!

[ew1usnr]

Hello, Kenny.

How hard and at what speed would you have to corner before you would notice the advantage of a one-inch sway bar (over the stock 5/8") plus a monte-carlo bar and/or an export brace?

Those things would add weight to the car, and it seems that the condition and width of the tires would be more important to how hard you could corner than the front end on the car flexing. The speed that you can veer right and left is also limited by how fast you can turn your big 17-inch steering wheel with however many turns it takes (five?).

I've never driven a Falcon with all that added, so I have no idea of the difference it would make. But, .... it just seems that the degree of flex of the front frame of the car would be a minor handling factor in comparison to the general condition of the springs, shock absorbers, ball joints, tie-rod and sway bar bushings, tire/wheel size, etc.

Thanks, Dennis.

[redfalken]

I'm not sure how much difference it would make since I've never experienced a before and after. Pat has made these mods (and many more) to his suspension so he may be able to say.

Sometimes you just have to try it out and see if it helps. There's a loop on my route home from work that would be a good test. It goes from Harbor Island (or W. Seattle) to 99 North. That loop really makes it lean.

My suspension parts are all fairly new. I did many of them a few years ago that had to do with steering and maybe 10 years ago had control arms and ball joints replaced. And I have it aligned and checked out at Tru-Line every few years or after some project that requires it.

But I'll know more about condition and probably do some upgrades next year with the disk brake conversion. Maybe we'll make a tech day of it!

[ew1usnr]

This article says that the Monte Carlo bar and export brace make a difference in the car's overall feel and that "Even during smooth highway driving, it was noticeably more solid."

It looks like installing them can be a lot more difficult than one would guess, though. The article says that they had to have an alignment shop jack the car up and spread the shock towers apart by one inch before the export brace could be bolted on.

See: http://www.fly-ford.com/MM0105-How_T...Carlo_Bar.html

[Jeff W]

What is the difference between the bolt-in export brace many of guys have (jon h, pat, roger, steve) and the Ford welded in braces my Wagon has now?

Is it simply ease of engine repair since it is removable or is there more?

Kenny, is the cowl repair on your winter project list?

[redfalken]

Kenny, is the cowl repair on your winter project list?

Saving that one for retirement and new paint job. For now my magnetic sheet covering the cowl vents will have to do...

[falcon cobra]

Jeff the only difference in the braces is that yours work and came with the car and the others cost money. I didn't take mine out when I removed the motor for what ever thats worth ...jh

[Jeff W]

Jeff the only difference in the braces is that yours work and came with the car and the others cost money. ...jh

Great! Glad I wasn't missing something. My work is done then.

[falcon cobra]

You could fab some stainless covers for them and they would look just fine. my welder fab guy wanted to know why I didn't do that. he has worked with stainless for years...jh

[Luva65wagon]

I bought a PST sway bar for my wagon right after I bought it in 1997. Made a world of difference - especially on a wagon, which is typically squirrely as it is. Bill Williams sold me one (same brand and size) for my Ranchero, which I will be installing soon as well. I'm pretty sure the locations are the same 60-65 for all these brackets and bushings. Not sure why they'd say otherwise. I used the poly bushings on the wagon with no issues so far, but have read complaints about squeaks, IIRC. Been too many years ago.

I assume you have a belly bar under it, but I will probably fabricate one for the Ranchero, as well as a Monte-Carlo bar. Adding a V8 to the Ranchero, when it doesn't have torque boxes - I think it will appreciate any rigidity I can throw at it. The stock 6 belly bar will not fit (I tried) due to the V8 motor mounts. The MC bars I've seen, where they make provision for the air cleaner - I think defeat the purpose of having them. You can't expect a "bent bar" to provide any strength on push/pull and are for looks only, if you ask me. It will simply flex. The bar must be straight to be rigid - unless it is heavy wall and much bigger... like the sway bar is.

I had my headers coated after about 5 or 6 times off getting sand-blasted and painted with everything that claimed to withstand the temps. None did. Finally took it to Performance Coatings too, and has been fine since. You may save a buck or two if you can sand blast it, but they're gonna do it again, I imagine, to deal with the internal cleanliness.

[Luva65wagon]

What is the difference between the bolt-in export brace many of guys have (jon h, pat, roger, steve) and the Ford welded in braces my Wagon has now?

They do look cooler. That should account for something. Probably account for about $150 less in your bank account.

I do see some improvement to access things, but not enough to justify doing it just to do it. I had to cut off my cowl, so it was a no-brainer to do. It wasn't (for me) a simple bolt on, but nothing has been on that Ranchero.

[BadBird]

If you cut out your shock towers like I did, the bar comes in real handy. I like this setup if you still have towers.