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Thread: Dual Master Cylinder Conversion

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  1. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    I didn't use the adapters. I cut the flare off of the end of the 3/16" tube and removed the existing tube nut, put on the correct size flare nut and re-flared the tube.

    You have to get the correct size nuts for the 3/16" tube which is not easy to find.

    The other thing to remember is that you need to do a "double flare" in the tube for brake lines.

    The nut size is:1/2"-20 x 3/16" and 9/16"-18 x 3/16". You will need one of each.

    This is the link where I normally purchase from, but I'm sure there are others:

    http://www.ultrastang.com/products5.php

    I feel using these right sized nuts rather than adapters makes for a cleaner installation and have less potential for leaks... on the other hand it requires a good flaring tool and some patience to learn how to double flare.

    Oh... if you want to use the original style brake light switch, you will need to find the fitting with two of the 3/8" inverted flares and one with 1/8" NPT.

    like this:
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...0137/overview/
    I think the specs are written wrong - he tube size should be 3/16" but the nut is 3/8" for the inverted ends... unless I'm missing something.

    For the T-fitting where you separate out for each front brake, all three have the 3/8" inverted flare.

    Like this:
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-lf-020/overview/

    I think both of your T-fittings are incorrect.

    Your lines look correct and will become conical (inverted flare) when you tighten them onto the matching fitting.

    Thank you for doing this upgrade!

    Kenny, Roger or anyone, please correct me if I have any of the sizes wrong. I think I wrote the sizes on the club parts bin before I handed it off.
    Last edited by Jeff W; December 26th, 2013 at 10:44 PM. Reason: Forgot about the T question.

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

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