T5 Project Coming Up

[pbrown]

Originally Posted by doghows

How did your pedal assembly turn out? Did I plug all the right places?

They look good. Thanks for getting them done.

[pbrown]

Progress is happening. The pedal set was assembled. I was stuck for a but on the clutch pedal stop. The original was badly deteriorated. I noodled around with different ideas and then found the perfect substitute. The next morning I was asked "Any idea what happened to the cutting board? It seems to be missing a piece."

The Modern Drivelines hydraulic clutch seems well engineered. It's all in there with exception of the reservoir. I need to fabricate a bracket to get it where I want. Then it will be ready to bleed and test.

[BadBird]

Fantastic, I know you are going to love this upgrade when finished. My brother is now thinking of going to the T5 after riding around in Reno for a week with his C-6 at 3600 RPM at 60MPH while I was at 1650. Keep on keepin on. Larry

[pbrown]

Very close now. Interior is put back in - carpet, drivers seat, steering column. I had to order a different shift lever. The original one would have looked cool but didn't have enough bend in it and my knuckles hit the dash knobs. I have a Hurst lever now with an off-white knob. That fits great.

I connected the speedo which is in my case electric.

I still need to bleed the clutch master/slave. That requires two people. I also need to fabricate a bracket for the reservoir. I'll do that tomorrow evening.

I'm looking for an idea for a material to create a seal out of for the interior tunnel hole. I want to keep fumes, water, and noise out as much as possible. Maybe a heavy rubber sheet of some kind. Thoughts?

[Luva65wagon]

You wont get much water up there, if any, but maybe stop at Les Schwab and see if they have any truck inner tube rubber.

[BadBird]

Alas, I didn't put anything over the cutout on mine. It never gets wet, never smell anything and I drive with my headers open quite a bit as you know. Maybe should have done something, ?? Larry

[pbrown]

I took the car out for it's first drive on the new T5 this morning. It was a short drive to the exhaust shop. The old exhaust interfered with the new T5 bellhousing. I still need to come up with a shifter boot but other than that it should be done.

[Luva65wagon]

Do you have a Hurst-style rectangular shaft or a round style shifter shaft? Can you use the factory style that uses this style ring? They are pretty looking compared to many of the after-market flimsy chrome floor shift rings w/boot. I suspect the round hole boot would conform nice to the rectangular shaft, if asked to.

http://www.falconparts.com/ford-falc...GS-153p408.htm

[pbrown]

Originally Posted by Luva65wagon

Do you have a Hurst-style rectangular shaft or a round style shifter shaft?

I have a Hurst rectangular shift lever. I have a trim ring. I just need to come up with a good way to mount a flat ring to a curved tunnel.

[pbrown]

I picked up the car from Ballard Muffler. I changed to a 2.25" exhaust. It was 2.5" and had clearance issues that way it was bent and installed.

I also changed to 426 Hemi mufflers. They are quite large and nearly twice the length of my old ones. The car is a lot more quiet now. This should make the wife a little happier as she always complained about the noise.

I kept the original 2.5" pipe from the muffler back and had the stainless tips fixed so they stick out the same length on both sides.

I need to recalibrate my speedometer. It's electronic. It reads over 120MPH when slowly cruising through Ballard.

[Luva65wagon]

Originally Posted by pbrown

My setup is from Modern Driveline.
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catalog/hydraulics.htm

The changes made at the meeting made a big improvement on feel. It's much lighter feeling now. I'll work on it tomorrow evening and see if I can eliminate the lateral flex..

Maybe go for the cable setup for the Mustang. Look into the Mustang Steve stuff. It looks good.
http://www.mustangsteve.com/cable.html

If you look at the pics on their site you can see what I was saying about the connection to the pedal not being parallel to the push rod into the master. Yours is up high and pushing down at the lever instead of against it. Text on the page is vague too: Uses stock clutch rod hole (where possible) for ease of installation.

Clearly not your hole.

[Luva65wagon]

Here's the image showing a correct orientation. Theoretically the lower hole should be a pull not a push against connection. You're pushing downward at it.

[pbrown]

I talked to Modern Driveline. They say that the problem was caused by the over center condition on the linkage. I took things apart. The bushing are bad so they are sending new ones. The rod to the MC needs to be as short as possible so that the lever almost touches the firewall when engaged. This will improve the angle of attack from the pedal linkage.

I'm leaving town tomorrow for a week so will not be able to finish this up until I return.