62 starting problem and need help please!

[pbrown]

I'm sure between these two you should be up and going in no time...

That or the car will burn to the ground in a terrific electrical fire.

[jedijim]

Hi All,

Thanks for your suggestions. Just as a quick update, Kenny did come over and helped me replace the solenoid and that didn't work (it generated the same whirring grinding sound as before) so check that off. Next he removed the starter. I took it to Schuck's and the guy did a bench test and it did start running but he said the voltage was low. So I bought a new one to be replaced by me (watch out) and we'll see if that does the trick. I'm going out of town for a few days but when I return I'll give you all an update and hopefully my bird will fire right up. If not, well, you know I'll be calling... ha!

Thanks again for all your kind assistance!

Jim

[Luva65wagon]

Jim,

Whirring grinding almost sounds like a bad bendix in the starter, which would mean the starter is turning, but when the bendix engages it releases prematurely. Or doesn't engage and hold. I doubt Shucks would check that component, but since you have a new one within the new starter, you should be golden. Let us know when you get back how that works out.

[redfalken]

I'm pretty sure that's exactly what it was. We put a direct 12-volts to the starter and you could feel it trying to engage but it wouldn't go. I was almost going to take the cover off to see if I could work it loose but figured Jim would be better off getting a new one with a lifetime warranty. I seem to put a new one in every 3-4 years of daily use.

I'm glad we changed that solenoid. The light grey colored one that was in there didn't look stock anyway!

Next project is the dual master cylinder and maybe a Pertronix electronic ignition unit??

[68FalconSC]

Way to go ! Helping this fella get his Bird up and flying earns good karma for you, plus it was just a real nice thing to do.

[jedijim]

Hi All,

I thought I'd give you an update. I did install the new starter and ugh, still the same no go and the grinding noise persist. I then noticed that with the headlights on, they would go almost entirely out when I turned the key. Even though I had checked and cleaned the battery terminals and checked the charge with a meter I borrowed my buddies charger and let it run over night. Next morning, it started right up. Ya! I'm fine with the new stuff I put on 'cause I now know it's new and it wasn't that expensive.

So my question is, I'm guessing the generator isn't charging properly when running and it slowly runs the battery down. If that's the case, is the generator an easy part to find (say, Schucks's, NAPA) or would it be rebuilt or should I put an alternator on instead. I'm trying to keep the car as stock as possible so I would prefer a generator but I will change it if cost prohibitive. Also, as this is a guess, is there a way to see if it's really not working and is it easy to remove? It looks fairly straight forward and the one currently on the car looks quite old.

Finally, I would appreciate your sage thoughts on this and what you would suggest I do. I'm happy that I've at least got it to go I just want to find a good permanent solution.

THANKS EVERYONE!

Jim

[Luva65wagon]

Yeah, I wish we had a sound recorder to hear the sounds you hear. I somehow figured you might have tried giving it a jump... negating the battery as the cause. Should'a asked I guess.

Anyway, with the car running, use that volt meter you had and check the voltage at the battery with both the headlights on and off. Lights on the voltage should be above 13 volts, but possibly as high as 14.5 or so. This is a generator, so be sure the engine is revving kind of high.

If the voltage isn't what it should be with the lights on, then pull the generator and have it checked at Schucks or Napa, or just drive to a shop (I go to Sears) and they'll usually check your entire system -- from generator to battery for free... in hopes to sell you the part you need. It could be a battery or the voltage regulator failing as well.

Alternators can generate more current and voltage at lower speeds. That's one of their main advantages. They are a pretty easy swap, but would require brackets and slight wiring changes to the "new style" voltage regulator you'd also have to install.

[jedijim]

Hi All,

Below is the parts list from the Comet article linked on the master cylindar web site. Does this look right? The NAPA store I went to had problems finding the right fittings based on this list. Patrick I live in Ballard too, maybe I could stop by for a few moments next weekend and look at the fitting you have, is that possible? Finally, after talking with Kenny hopefully we can do this project in late August, maybe 8/23...

Thanks!!!!!

Parts Required: (prices are based upon a visit to my local NAPA store 7-31-06)

•

1967 Mustang Duel Bowl Manual Master Cylinder for front and rear drum brakes

(remanufactured). Note: This conversion will not work with a stock power brake
booster. $19.95
Core Charge $9.25

•

Brass Brake Line Tee Fitting (1960-66) $2.99

•

Brass Brake Line Tee Fitting w/1/8” female pipe thread (1960-64 only) $5.69

•

8” - 3/16” Brake lines with fittings on each end (1960-66) $1.99

•

8” - 3/16” Brake lines with fittings on each end (1960-64 only) $1.99

•

1 Quart of Type 3 Brake Fluid $3.87

•

Master cylinder brake bleeding kit. $1.00

Optional Parts:

(might as well replace them well it is apart)

•

Brake Light Switch $10.99

[redfalken]

You forgot one thing:

Being able to stop if one line breaks: Priceless!

[pbrown]

Patrick I live in Ballard too, maybe I could stop by for a few moments next weekend and look at the fitting you have, is that possible?

I'll be out of town for the next two weekends. I would be available on weekday evenings this week and the start of next.

[jedijim]

Thanks Patrick!

I have a commitment at 6P every evening for the next two weeks, but is it possible to come by between 5 and 6 any day before you leave? I'm not sure what time you get home from work but if this won't work that's fine too, we can just try to get together when you return.

Thanks so much for your assitance!

Jim

[Nathan289]

I would go back to Schuck's taking your MC with you and ask them for a short piece of metal brake line 3/16 with standard flares and standard fittings..
With those two items ask them if you can go through their Dorman brass fitting bins looking for the fitting you need..

You will need on inverted flared brass tee 3/16x3/16x3/16
You will also need as many as 3 adapters depending on the MC's threaded ports.. I think that Cardone drills and taps them if the threads are damaged as i've seen 3 identicle parts have different sizes..

Hence the reason you brought your master..

If you want to get really tricky and reduce an adapter ask them for a conversion brakeline they shoud have them.. it will have a 3/16 on one end and 1/2 or 9/16 fitting on the other end... depeds on the piece you need.

Nathan

[jedijim]

So I'm gearing up to do this master cylinder job and I'm wondering if there is any time I could come over and look through your box of brake fittings? I can meet whenever it's convenient for you. Thank you so much for your kind offer!

Jim

[pbrown]

I'll be around all weekend. If you come by on Sunday you may be put to work pulling Ethernet cable under the house.