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Thread: Seals for wagons and sedan delivery

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
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    1,430
    Tailgate glass guides weather-strip. - Warning: The following is extremely boring - only of interest to wagon owners in middle of a rebuild:

    I have not installed these on the car or tailgate yet, but they are ready to go.

    1) The material used:

    Rigid Channel Division Bar - This is the same material used for the front door glass - snaps into the stainless channel behind vent window. These are sold in "pairs" and are 30" long. You will want to buy the less expensive "generic" divider bar that is not pre-machined with slots and holes for the door application. One "pair" will do the entire tailgate area with 3" to spare.

    5/32 (qty 16) rivet. I could not easily find the OEM type so I used some stainless pop-rivets with 1/4" grab. These were a bit too long to allow a nice peen - I trimmed them a bit.

    2) The pair of guides inside the tailgate was straight forward. These guides consist of only the Division bar (14-1/2") and two brackets.

    • Cut the new Division Bar (Mine was 14-1/2" but use your old one as a guide) - set aside.
    • Drill out the rivets (4) from your existing piece and remove the two brackets.
    • Carefully mark and drill the holes (4) in your new 14-1/2" Division Bar. I inserted a thin piece of wood into the channel to support the glued on felt during drilling.
    • Install the two brackets using your rivets. I didn't have a rivet gun narrow enough to get down into the channel so I used a rod held in my bench vice as the anvil and started the peen using a punch, then graduated to a small peen hammer.
    • The felt didn't appear to be glued very well to the U-Channel. I took the extra step and used epoxy to glue the last 1/2" of the felt back onto the metal channel. I didn't want this felt to peel off during use.
    3) The upper guides mount to the body and guide/hold the glass in its "UP" position. These were installed in much the same way with the following notes:
    • These uppers do not have brackets, they mount to metal strips that screw to the upper body. Paint these your interior color before assembly (not the Division Bar).
    • Division Bar was cut to 14" (NOTE: my original bars had evidence of the felt being longer, folded and glued to the back of the metal channel. I'm assuming this was intended to keep the glass from peeling the felt off of the backing U-channel as the glass enters from below. I did the same by taking a small screwdriver and carefully loosening some of the felt from the end of the metal channel, cutting the metal bar with care, then using epoxy to adhere the felt to the inside and where it folds to the outside. I temporarily pressed in a piece of wood to hold the felt to the inside while the glue cured.
    • Snap the reworked Division Bar into the holder strip. I used a razor and shaved the felt/epoxy fold to allow easier installation. The holder bar is actually slotted which allows this thicker end to insert with ease.
    • Drill holes for rivets (4) in each Division Bar using wood strip and a backer.
    • Rivet (4 per side) - peen these guys very flat. When installing, there is a rubber strip with clearance holes used to back these. If the rivet sits proud of the rubber strip, clearance issues.
    These may be confusing instructions - I'm guessing the below pictures are all you need. Good luck.

    Mine wagon is an early 1963 - this may not be the same as earlier or later models. I believe some models use regular glass run for the uppers. As with any project, check your application before plowing forward.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jeff W; December 24th, 2010 at 08:27 PM.

  2. #17
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    Oct 2006
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    I did one last step last night. I was a little worried that the heads of the pop rivets sat too high inside the track (they are slightly crowned) and would rub the edge of the glass. I turned the pieces upside down with the newly peened side against my anvil then used a large faced pin punch and a three pound mallet to really smash the crown flat. Now the rivet heads are lower than the felt lining inside the channels.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    I must be missing something... My tailgate was missing all the window weatherstrip and beltline when I got it. I bought the items I thought I needed and laid it all out tonight. I can't figure out how it all goes together.

    I have a new piece of special wagon "window tape" that secures the glass to the lower channel. It has a long lip in the outside that somehow mates with the outer rubber seal that mounts to the outer skin. Everything looks backward to me. I don't know if I'm missing a part . My manual Swiss some pictures but not the detail I need.

    Any pictures or advice is appreciated. I think the 60 - 63 are all the same.

  4. #19
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    I think I have it all figured out. I expected a nice water tight seal... apparently it's a bit of a Mickey Mouse set-up.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Sequim
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    Remember how you do it. I might need help when I put mine back together???

  6. #21
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    Oct 2006
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    I'll take pictures of everything. One of my problems was mounting the tail gate seal upside down. Apparently it is SUPPOSED to fill up with 1/2 gallon of water like a water trough. Those wacky engineers.

  7. #22
    Jeff, I know exactly how all this goes together and I'm not sure why you say it's supposed to fill up with water? Although I know it's not wholly watertight either, the tailgate glass bedding seal has a "wing" that is supposed to go up under the edge of the upper part of the outer skin when you roll up the window. This then acts like a "trough" for water to skirt towards the ends of the glass track and not pour all over the crank gears and rollers - and then drain out the bottom.

    I learned about this when I first built my tailgate and replaced all the tracks and seals (as many as I could find 10 years ago, anyway). They sold me the same bedding gasket with the wing, but for whatever reason didn't tell me this doesn't work on the square-body wagons. Didn't know until I was all done and then had to take it all apart again. The shape of the outer skin doesn't allow this wing, but a 60-63 being rounded, it clears everything going up.

    Anyway, maybe I misunderstood, but it's really not that bad a seal idea -- wish it was as good for the 64/65 models.

    Also, when you put the tailgate glass together, don't put the inner skin on until you've closed the gate (it won't latch yet) and adjusted the up/down left/right alignment of the glass track standoffs. Means climbing into the back with the gate closed (resting on the rubber bumpers) and using an Allen key and a wrench to tweak each of them until the glass goes up and down smoothly. Loads of fun - that one.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  8. #23
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    Oct 2006
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    Seattle
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    I guess I was expecting something a bit more sealed.

    Here is a picture of the window mounted to the lower track. The soft soap and bar clamps really helped with the installation.

    I will not be assembling the tailgate for a spell... Today I noticed a bunch of bubbles in the tailgate... it willl have to stripped and repainted.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
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    That looks just like what I did to mine. That seal was a pain. On a good note I have your parts. Bad news I don't have a marker light assembly. I do have your gasket and lock gizmo. Also have the window regulator as well. Now I just need to get them to you guys... Good luck with that tailgate.
    P.S. Did I mention body work sucks??? Steve...

  10. #25
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    Next I need to attach the chrome strip to the top of the glass. I need to buy some 3/32" glass setting tape and follow the same bar clamp routine.

    Steve, if I find some tape, should I shoot 4' of it your way or have you already done this?

  11. #26
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    I have not done that yet. If it is available cut me off a chunk and I will trade you for the other parts I have for you... Thanks...

  12. #27
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    Oct 2006
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    I'll get some glass setting tape for you Steve.

    So here is my latest issue - the rear splash guard (Dennis Carpenter 1960-63) looks like it may be incorrect for my car. this is the rubber strip that mounts to the body lip behind the rear bumper. The center section looks like it was made for a different profile. Anybody been here before? -picture attached.

    I'm also attaching a picture of the lovely paint bubbles that are multiplying (daily) on the tailgate . I am watching the entire car closely and do not see it elsewhere... strange but hopeful. As soon at it is street legal, it's going back for repair.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    977
    I had exactly the same piece and issues trying to make it fit to the Ranchero. I never found the correct piece. I got mine from Melvin's, but the packaging said Dennis Carpenter also. Roger came by one day and we made it work by forcing it to follow the countour of the ridge it mouints on, but its not the right piece in my opinion and doesn't really "seal" to the bumper. It kinda hangs down like a mud flap, which still will deflect, but not "seal". If you find the correct piece, I may consider changing it.
    Gene


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, EFI, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    977
    Oh yeah, coincidentily, I also had blisters appear within a few weeks after the paint was applied to mine. It also went back to be repaired. The blisters on my Ranchero were on the passenger side. Almost the full length of the quarter panel.
    Gene


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, EFI, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff W View Post
    I'll get some glass setting tape for you Steve.

    So here is my latest issue - the rear splash guard (Dennis Carpenter 1960-63) looks like it may be incorrect for my car. this is the rubber strip that mounts to the body lip behind the rear bumper. The center section looks like it was made for a different profile. Anybody been here before? -picture attached.
    I have the same seal on my 62. It fits fine. The sheet metal looks different on mine.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


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