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Thread: Engine Rebuild

  1. #1
    oldford63 Guest

    Smile Engine Rebuild

    I have a 1963 170ci I6 that I am planning to rebuild completely. My goal is to add a little power over stock but keep the overall original stock look. I am not looking to race by any means, just want a little better performance so I can run an AC unit this summer. Do you guys have any suggestions where I might be able to get engine parts to accomplish this?
    Thanks for your time,
    Guy

  2. #2
    Start off my finding a good 200ci. It shares the same outside dimensions and will bolt right in where the 170 was. The 200 was very popular and was made all the way to 1983 so they are plentiful.

    You can get stock rebuild parts from any auto parts store. You can get some aftermarket parts from www.classicinlines.com.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  3. #3
    Don't forget Clifford performance as another source for speed parts..

    Classic inlines makes an aftermarket aluminum cylinder head for the small sixes.. very cool and a little pricey.. $1500..

    I would find a better cam, not too big though..
    Go .030 on the pistons..
    Mill the head .030 to compensate for the thicker head gasket..
    Find a cylinder head from a 78 or so 200 or 250. These heads have the largest intake log, and the largest valves plus it should have hardend exhaust valve seats.
    Get a header and upgrade the carb..

    Nathan
    Last edited by Nathan289; March 26th, 2009 at 10:41 PM. Reason: forgot a step
    Nathan and Jen Cooper
    63 Sprint Hardtop "Dollora"
    63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
    * this spot is vacant for future project*

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    I agree with the gang. 200 is the way to go! I will be soon replacing my 170ci with a rebuilt 200ci. I found a complete engine still connected to a C4 tranny on Craigslist for $150. Apparently it was running fine when it was pulled 5 years ago. even a standard Ford Engine Rebuild kit in the 200ci with stock parts would give as good or better performance than a slightly hopped up 170ci.

    I'm going to just overhaul the bottom end and use my existing 170ci head for now. It was redone a short time ago. Eventually I'll find a newer head for all the reason stated byte other guys. That is easy to swap out later. Just trying to spread out my expenditures over a couple of years.

    I find several bottom end rebuild kits on the net for around $450 if you don't want anything too fancy. That doesn't include a cylinder bore or regrinding on the crank. That would probably add another $150 to $200.

  5. #5
    I'd agree if you're going to put the time and money into something, get a later 200.

    I have a `82 200 head I'm working on right now. Actually, it's on hold until I pay off a few things but I got most of the parts from Classic Inlines. I'll get headers when I install and work on the bottom end later.

    I had a few things fixed by a cast iron welder and now I'm porting and polishing. My list of upgrades are:

    - Oversized stainless steel valves (1.5" exhaust, 1.75" intake)
    - Install hardened valve seats.
    - Three-angle valve job (Top Cut: 30°, Valve Seat: 45°, Bottom Cut: 60°).
    - Undercut intake valve 30° (do not undercut exhaust valves).
    - Install bronze valve guides.
    - Machine for teflon valve seals.
    - Mill head .030 (57cc chambers, 8.1:1 CR).
    - Mill exhaust port surfaces as needed.
    - Mill carburetor base surface as much as possible to lower Weber.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  6. #6
    Of course I agree with the group, but keep in mind that going post 65 I6 will have a different bell housing than the pre 66 stuff. So this would turn your engine rebuild into an engine and tranny swap.

    The main reason for going to a 200 is the stronger block with 7, as opposed to 5, main bearings. If you don't want to do the tranny you can get a pre-66 200 (like I have) and it'll give you the strength of the 200 and same bell housing as what you have now.

    That said you can build a very drivable 170 that's got a little more gitty-up if you want to keep it all stock, just consult the machine shop you're getting the parts from, or contact Clifford.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  7. #7
    A 1966 200 block would be drilled for both bellhousings..

    My 68 170 block is drilled for both bellhousings and it has 3 freeze plugs which would still make it a 4 main block.. Weird huh??

    Nathan
    Nathan and Jen Cooper
    63 Sprint Hardtop "Dollora"
    63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
    * this spot is vacant for future project*

  8. #8
    oldford63 Guest

    Smile

    Hey guys,
    I did some investigating and found out my 1963 170 ci has 1.522 intake and 1.266 exhaust valves. But between 1964 to 1972 both the 170 ci and the 200 ci had 1.649 intake and 1.380 exhaust valves.

    Do you guys know if the 200 ci heads for 1964 were intergrated or not?

    Thanks for all of your inputs,
    Guy

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by oldford63 View Post
    Do you guys know if the 200 ci heads for 1964 were intergrated or not?
    Are you referring to the intake log? All 200 heads have the cast intake log unless you are lucky enough to find an old Ausy version.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Seattle
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    My book shows even the 250 has the integrated intake manifold log.
    It also says the 144, 170, 200 and 250 are all interchangeable.

    Interestingly, it mentions that the '72 to '75 Maverick 250 heads had a much wider casting o the top of the manifold allowing for a machine shop to mill a flat spot large enough to mount a larger 2 barrel carb without an adapter plate.

    The Holy Grail, so to speak, is the '78 or later 200/250 head:
    1) largest valves
    2) hardened seats
    3) smaller combustion chamber
    4)Big volume in the intake log.

    Now I need to find one of my own!

  11. #11
    oldford63 Guest

    Smile

    Jeff,
    I am still in the planning stage of my engine rebuild with a couple of more questions. Is 1978 the first year Ford heads had hardened seats? I am planning a trip to my local Junk Yard, (at my age that is what I have always called them), to see if I can find a 200 head for my 170 build up. Could you tell me what years are best to look for and how to tell what size I6 engine I am looking at? Casting numbers would be great, but any information that puts me onto the right cylinder head is good. Oh, one more question, when I do find a 200 I6 does it matter what Ford car (or truck) it comes out of? Man I cannot wait to get to the Junk Yard to see what I can see. Just writing about it gets me all fired up!
    Thank you for your time,
    Guy

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    I am not an expert but I can quote from books all day long.

    One correction about the 72 - 75 Maverick head.. apparently you still need an adapter plate to mount the carb, but the wider flat spot give it a better option for more seating and/or metal removal for that bigger hole.

    Before you make a trip to he yard or plan your rebuild, I would highly recommend purchasing "The Ford Falcon - Six Cylinder Performance Handbook" by David and Dennis Schjeldahl. Almost any Falcon supply house will sell it. It's less that $15.00 and worth every penny.

    It says 78 was the first year of the hardened seats. You can add hardened seats to any year head, but if your head already has them... that's more money left for other goodies.

  13. #13
    I have a 74 maverick 200 head with hardend seats.. But I'm pretty sure that car was from California, so maybe Ca cars went lead free first??

    Any later year head would be an improvement over the orginal.. larger intake log and larger valves.. it's just that the 78 head had the best of everything..

    Nathan
    Nathan and Jen Cooper
    63 Sprint Hardtop "Dollora"
    63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
    * this spot is vacant for future project*

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Nathan, I think I misread something or I had too much scotch last night. I just looked through the book again and I can't find where it states what year they started hardened seats. But is does say the '78 and later are the best choices. Thanks for making me check my work.

  15. #15
    oldford63 Guest

    Smile

    Hey guys,

    Thanks for the support. I am planning a trip to the yard next Monday. Do you guys know of any simple way I can tell if an engine is a 200 or not? My plans include a .040 over cylinder clean up, decking everything to get 9.0 compression, rebuilding the 200 head to match a Comp Cam kit. I am not sure wish one yet, K65-236-4 or K65-235-4. I am also not so sure of this but am currently giving it some thought, making a wooden piece to go from one to two carbs. I installed a 4-barrel on a Chevy 350 once and was able to buy a wooden spacer for it. My goal is to pep up my original engine while keeping the stock look. I am still woking out how to install the original air cleaner onto a two barrel carb. I am thinking of enlarging the bottem hole to accommidate for it, but am still not sure yet what I will do able that.

    My first step is to find the right 200 head so any help with a simple way to tell if an engine is a 200 or not would be a great start. I realize my plans may be a little out of the ordinary but being a car guy I guess makes me a little crazy.

    Thanks for the help,
    Guy

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