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  #16  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:33 AM
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SmithKid SmithKid is offline
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Drivelines NW has 3 locations. Seattle, Fife and Everett.
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Gene Smith
Everett, WA
'65 Ranchero Deluxe
302, 4-Spd
Granada Discs
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  #17  
Old 10-08-2013, 01:12 PM
dhbfaster dhbfaster is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Federal Way
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Thanks all...Steve, you're correct, if my measurements are correct, there would be a 1" gap between the diffy hockup and the driveshaft.
Thanks all for the advice about drivelines NW too. Unfortunately I now have the seats out and the bumper and a few other things off the car....maybe I'll go ahead and take my old axle assy to them to evaluate first, and if they can't solve that easy enough then I'll ask about the newer one and whether or not they can make that work right. It'll probably be a few weeks...I'll let you guys know what they say.
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  #18  
Old 10-08-2013, 01:25 PM
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Luva65wagon Luva65wagon is offline
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I needed to add about 3" to my wagon driveline way-back-when. Instead of taking it to DLNW I decided to be cheap and do it myself. So I made a sleeve with an ID about the OD of my drivelive (-.001) and then cut my drive line after scribing it and the sleeve (to get it perfectly oriented). Then I drove the sleeve on one end about half-way and then onto the other until it was the length I needed. I then welded it while someone spun it by hand. I drove it that way for about 8 years until I put in my 8" rear end. I then took it to DLNW to get a larger end attached and they looked at it, somewhat dumbfounded, and said "How did that thing not require being balanced?" I shrugged and said, "Thin sleeve, good welding?

Anyway, they were very fast and fair priced. For the price I paid I was kicking myself... I would have never done what I did the first time if I'd have known.
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  #19  
Old 10-08-2013, 03:00 PM
falcon cobra falcon cobra is offline
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My transmission guy which also does drive lines says if the shaft is straight after welding it doesn't need to be balanced, they mostly tell you that for the $$$$....jh
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