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Thread: overheat !

  1. #1

    overheat !

    After 6 years of restoration,i start to drive my "65. 200 cui,rebuilt engine,body and painted.
    All things are normal for car in this years,after one month engine get hot and plug on 2. cyl get greasy.Changed coolant in radiator,cuted line to carb and heater in cabin,added electric fan in front of radiator(pusher)-work all time,belt is ok,ignition on 10 and with new spark plug car drive excellent but temperature gauge gone in hell-water go on cap of radiator(new cap).No leak,no bubbles on water when engine work,...no brain!
    Greetings from Croatia in Europe

  2. #2
    Does it overheat when moving or just at idle?
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  3. #3
    Both time,before 20 min. i pull out radiator with small hard pieces of rust in vertical canals...could be cause for overheating?What You think?
    Become a night mare...

  4. #4
    If it is overheating when moving then no amount of cooling fan will help. Your radiator may be plugged. You can remove it and have it flushed at a shop. Also be sure the fins are is good shape. Check the water pump and also the hoses. The lower hose could be collapsing which would restrict coolant flow. You might also by an engine flush kit for the engine.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Don't forget to check the thermostat.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff W View Post
    Don't forget to check the thermostat.
    Good call Jeff.

    Pull the thersostat and drop it into a pot of water and place on stove. Use a thermometer to see if and when it's opening.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  7. #7
    thermostat is out,hoses and engine are clean,impeller on water pump is in good condition,pump don't leak on hole,...checked several times.

  8. #8
    What is the temp. there? is it winter? falcons and many others will have it bad here today, almost 95* my meter says 38 c now.

  9. #9
    If you have a six-cylinder and the timing is set at 10 degrees BTDC it should be OK. Sometimes if the timing is off it will cause overheating.

    Is the coolant actually boiling over and on to the ground? If your gauge says it's too hot, but it's not boiling over, the gauge may be not working properly??

    I love a good mystery...unless it's happening to me

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  10. #10
    Today i'was in repair shop for check radiator.Man set caps on him and put on water.Then hi tell me-cap not sitting ok,pressure of air from inside come aut on 0.2 bar.Must keep close min. on 0.6 bar.Afternoon i'will set radiator on car ant try it.Man from shop think it was solution;clean sitting point and buy cap for radiator with mark 70 or 100 and engine will not loose water and will not overheat.
    You will be informed...
    P.S.
    Today Split and Dalmatia measured 36-38 celsius.Hot.Hot.Hot.

  11. #11
    Most parts lists say 13 psi (.9 bar) but I was advised once by a radiator shop with a good reputation to run a 7 psi (.5 bar). He said because of the way the top of the older Ford radiators were soldered on, too much pressure can cause leaks.

    .2 bar is pretty low so that might have caused it to quickly overheat. The .6 bar sounds like it should be good. I hope it works for you...let us know!

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  12. #12
    After 30 min. of drive and stay,temp.get fly.Cap leak when temp. get pre last line on scale(2 mm before overheat).Then i turn off engine and cap splash out 0.5 l. of boiling water.All time added fan work,no thermostat,no leaking,belt ok,sound excellent,no smoke,clean exhaust,water roll on in radiator,rubber tubes normal-soft.
    It is better then yesterday,but still get hot.Tomorrow i try again.
    Or put some european diesel inside like redneck and this is it.

  13. #13
    1) Reach down (engine OFF) and squeeze lower radiator hose. Should have a spring in it to keep it from collapsing.

    2) It's overheating very quickly which would indicate lack of water flow most likely. Leave the cap off, start the car, and carefully watch the fluid in the radiator. Without the thermostat, as you say, water should be moving very quickly around inside. More if you pump the gas pedal. If it is stagnant, then either the water pump impellers are gone (rusted away to nothing) or the radiator is clogged.

    3) It seems you took to shop, but can they sniff the gases from the radiator for hydrocarbon emissions? Blown head gasket can cause quick overheating and the gases coming from radiator will have unburnt and burnt petrol gases. Maybe cylinder #2 as you indicated earlier?

    Last edited by Luva65wagon; July 29th, 2009 at 03:40 PM.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  14. #14
    Head gasket is new and head is machined,today i will take off head to check in shop.

  15. #15
    Is it possible to get a head gasket on backwards on the L6 like on a V8 car? The V8 has large holes in the rear and little holes up front. Installing backwards will cause overheating.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


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