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Thread: Coming together

  1. #1

    Smile Coming together

    Hello to everyone,

    The engine is finally coming together. I got the bottem end built and painted. Also got the head together and painted. The front end engine bay and fender wells are close to sandblasting. I have to move the car outside my shop and pull the tires and springs first.

    Having fun,
    Guy
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    So what paint you gonna use to paint the engine bay with? Looks like you're just about ready to spray.

    Looking good.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  3. #3

    Smile

    Good Morning

    My plan is to move the car outside the shop and drop the tires and springs. Sandblast the engine bay & fender wells. I got a couple of tubes of Eastwood high solids seam sealer to replace the old stuff in the corners. Its black, paintable, non-sagging, and remains plyable after it cures. I also got Eastwoods extreme chassis black satin to finish with. It is suppost to be very durable. I'd planned on appling 3 coats and hope I don't sratch anything dropping the engine back in!

    I have a couple questions going forward on my 1963 170 ci.

    Was the bottom can on the fuel pump white?

    Did the damper, (harmonic balancer) shaft have a grove machined into it? I have a shallow grove in my original one and was wondering if the rubber timing cover seal could have caused it.

    I'm hoping to complete the engine build today, except for the exhaust manifold. My original one has a crack in it. I went to the junkyard and found one, but it too had a crack in it. I may need to buy a new one but was hoping to save that expence if I could.

    Thanks for your help,
    Guy

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Guy; I probably have an exhaust manifold here. Post a pic of what you need and I will check my pile. I need to make a trip over to Rogers soon to check out his car and swap some parts with him so I could bring that if I have one.. Let me know Thanks Steve

    Just read the other post. I guess I would have to ship it to you?? Still possible let me know.

  5. #5

    Smile

    Got some pictures of my old manifold and just had to throw a couple in of my 49 year old engine.

    The maniforld gasket ID = 1 5/8 & the OD = 2 1/4. The 170 is just a bit smaller than the 200, but I am sure I don't have to tell you that.

    I wonder if anyone knows if the bottom can on the fuel pump should be white?

    Also if anyone knows if the damper shaft should have a grove machined into it?

    Thanks for the help,
    Guy
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  6. #6
    Guy,

    The front balancer has a key slot to key it onto the crank. The timing mark ("O" degree) is on the outer ring.

    The fuel pump can on mine is inverted (on top) and all these were. And I painted mine white after seeing a few very old setups that were too. Not to revisit the thread Steve just lived, we'd need to see the fuel pump you plan to use.

    That looks to me to be a 200 exhaust manifold like the one I needed for my Flarechero. Steve had that. I have one with a flat flange where the exhaust pipe attaches. But these were for the 144 and early 170's. By late 64, I believe, the 200, and possibly the late-edition 170, used a doughnut hole style gasket and not the flat style.

    Here is a picture of my engine with the white-can fuel filter canister with label attached.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  7. #7
    Join Date
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    If that is a 200 I still have the manifold off the pole car available. But I don't think I have the smaller one. Let me know and I can pull it.
    The cars are going to scrap soon so let me know if you need anything else.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by doghows View Post
    If that is a 200 I still have the manifold off the pole car available. But I don't think I have the smaller one. Let me know and I can pull it.
    The cars are going to scrap soon so let me know if you need anything else.
    I thought that was the one you sent to me? Along with the timing cover? At least that's what you told me....

    You had others?



    I have the smaller flat-flange one available (left-over swap-meet parts), but needed the one off the pole car because it used the doughnut style gasket.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  9. #9
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    You might be right???? I remember the timing cover, and some other stuff. I better check before I promise it. Thanks Roger I think I am getting powder on the brain... Brain fart::: I still have the one from the wagon ie.. 170.

  10. #10

    Smile

    Thanks for the replys,

    My exhaust manifold is original to my 170 engine and uses the donut type gasket. I just put the demetions in the post so you could tell the exhaust hole was in fact a smaller one.

    I will get pictures of the new fuel pump I plan to use tomorrow. I closed up the shop for the day and took an early showwer because my wife has company for me to visit with!!!!!!!!

    Guy

  11. #11

    Smile

    luva65wagon,

    Your engine bay looks right on. Really something to be proud of!

    I got pictures of the fuel pump and the grove in my damper so maybe you guys can tell me if I will need a new harmonic balancer. Its not the key in the shaft it is the small grove I am pointing at in the picture.
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  12. #12
    Join Date
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    That groove should not be there. It is probably worn in from the seal. I have 2 at home that have a similar groove but the one for my 5.0 motor is very smooth. My thought would be to replace it. But we will see what the others say..

  13. #13
    I had the same groove when I did my rebuild. It's a worn groove from the seal rubbing on that area. You can by a "Speedi-Sleeve" that will slide over that groove and make a nice smooth surface for the seal to ride on and keep oil from leaking. Assuming the rest of the dampner is in good shape, this would be the least expensive solution.

    Mine's working great so far!

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  14. #14

    Smile

    doghows,

    Thanks for the input, my thought was the shaft is suposed to be smooth.

    Guy

  15. #15
    Also, it's hard to tell from the photo but that looks like a pretty good size groove. If you use the Speedi-Sleeve, fill the groove with JB Weld and install the sleeve before it dries. This will swipe off excess JB and give the sleeve some support from underneath where the groove is (was).

    If I recall correctly they run about $35 or so.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

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