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Thread: Freddie's Transplant

  1. #166
    Looks like it might be running rich to me. Does the exhaust have a fuel smell? Unless the plugs have some unusual heat range, I'd say too much fuel.

    I would go for a cruise, shut off the engine right as you take your foot off the gas, and coast into your driveway. Don't let it idle. Try to be going 20 mph or more right before you shut it down. Then check the plugs and compare.

    I'm guessing the engine was idleing for a little bit before you last turned off the engine.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  2. #167
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    451
    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    What plugs did you decide on for this? Gap?
    Plugs are Autolite AR3933. (Hard to find...) Gap is .040.

    Quote Originally Posted by redfalken View Post
    Does the exhaust have a fuel smell?
    Yeah. Smells a lot! Smells up the whole house when I'm in the garage messin' with it.
    Gary MacDonald
    ROGER's...
    EX... '63 Hardtop
    Had...
    Scarebird front discs
    200 w/ CI alum head
    C4

  3. #168
    Gary this is what a plug should look like with unleaded gas today, this plug has about 8000 miles on it, it's out of my falcon with a Q-jet carb. yours has some oil mixed with the gas, you can tell because it has gone up the threads clear to the gasket, I would check the needle and seat in the carb, sometimes people forget to put a gasket under the seat, or they are not tight, so when you put it in the garage the fuel expands and runs over and makes a big stink, and like some have said its a holly....jh
    Last edited by falcon cobra; August 22nd, 2012 at 04:16 PM.

  4. #169
    Gary, I would take the time to pull that carb off and document all the parts it has in it. It is clearly running rich. You got something wacky still with that carb I think.

    In addition I don't know whether I would have used the racing plugs. I don't know enough about them but even the CI site only recommends those plugs when you're running boost, which you're not. Probably not the issue, but just an observation.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  5. #170
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    451

    Pulled the Carb

    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    Gary, I would take the time to pull that carb off and document all the parts it has in it. It is clearly running rich. You got something wacky still with that carb I think.
    I pulled the carb off and discovered:
    1. The secondaries are COMPLETELY CLOSED. The Holley manual says that the primaries and secondaries should be open an equal amount at idle.
    2. The accelerator pump cam is orange and is attached in the #2 hole.
    3. The accelerator pump shooter is a #25.
    4. The idle mixture screws were turned out three turns on the left side, and two and a half turns on the right side.
    I didn't feel comfortable going after the power valve.... However, some old-timer at a car show a couple of years ago told me he hated Holley carbs "'cause the power valves always blew out when the engine back-fired." Mine back-fired once.

    The carb is still off. Waitin' to hear comments.

    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    In addition I don't know whether I would have used the racing plugs. I don't know enough about them but even the CI site only recommends those plugs when you're running boost, which you're not. Probably not the issue, but just an observation.
    The "AR" plugs are easier to find than the "A" plugs. I got the impression that it didn't matter much.
    Last edited by MacDee; March 17th, 2012 at 04:05 PM.
    Gary MacDonald
    ROGER's...
    EX... '63 Hardtop
    Had...
    Scarebird front discs
    200 w/ CI alum head
    C4

  6. #171
    Newer Holley carbs have power valve blowout protection. You should continue to tare the carb down. Pull the float bowl(s) and document the jets. Pull the power valve and document the value. You may have a higher value power valve and low idle or part throttle vacuum which will cause the power valve to be open more that it should. This would cause an overly rich condition.

    Your power valve value should be 1-2 lbs lower than the vacuum recorded at idle when the engine is warm and the car is in drive (automatics only).
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  7. #172
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
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    451
    Quote Originally Posted by pbrown View Post
    Pull the float bowl(s) and document the jets. Pull the power valve and document the value.
    I pulled the bowl on the primary side. The main jets are stamped with "512". I don't know how to identify the power valve. There are three numbers stamped on it. One is a five. The two others are sixes or nines depending on how you look at them! I've read Holleys usually come with power valves rated at 6.5?

    Quote Originally Posted by pbrown View Post
    Your power valve value should be 1-2 lbs lower than the vacuum recorded at idle when the engine is warm and the car is in drive (automatics only).
    Yeah, she idles, in gear, at about 10 in Hg. Does that mean I should get a power valve rated at 8.5?
    Gary MacDonald
    ROGER's...
    EX... '63 Hardtop
    Had...
    Scarebird front discs
    200 w/ CI alum head
    C4

  8. #173
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    451

    Power Valve Selection

    I found this quote on the Holley web site tech section; a Q & A about power valve selection:

    QUESTION How do I tell what size power valve I need?
    ANSWER To properly size a power valve, take a vaccum reading at idle and if it is above 12" for a standard transmission a 6.5" will be safe to use. For automatic transmissions take a vaccume reading in gear at idle and if the vaccum is below 12" divide that in half for proper size. Example 9" of vaccume in gear at idle will require a 4.5" power valve.

    My vacuum at idle in gear is 10", so, according to this, I should use a 5.5" power valve.

    Hmm...
    Gary MacDonald
    ROGER's...
    EX... '63 Hardtop
    Had...
    Scarebird front discs
    200 w/ CI alum head
    C4

  9. #174
    Sound like to me a call needs to be made to Holley (or Googled about regarding the numbers you are finding on the one you have) to see what PV you have now.

    You ought to also talk to their support staff anyway and explain what you are dealing with, what you have in your carb now, what other things you can offer about the motor, and see if these guys - who eat/sleep/drink Holleys - can offer as options. They may have other jets they can send you to try. Who knows.

    Personally... I still have a hard time (always have) on the need for a 4 barrel carb on a 6. Unless it was built totally to race. But that's just me. I know it looks cool and all, but I think it (or at least "this it") is probably the leading cause of all your agony.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  10. #175
    I just looked at a dvd I got about carbs, and it says you take the vacuum, lets say it's 10in, divide it by two and thats five so a 4.5 or 5 power valve is what you need. also carb size, you multiply cu.in X rpm and divide it by 3456, so a 200ci motor at 5000 rpm = 289 cfm. a rochester 2 bbl would be just right.....jh

  11. #176
    Or a Ford or Holley or Weber 2 barrel. I have 3 or 4 Ford 2 barrel 2100 carbs laying around - plus that Holley you had before. My 78 F350 with a 351M and a mild RV cam only has a 2 barrel carb and does a great job of getting down the road.

    So why the choice of this particular 4 barrel. That is my ask? Did CI recommend it? What was it's original part number on the box?
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  12. #177
    Kenny, or who ever.. do you how much cfm your webber is? does that have a primary and a secondary or do they work together..jh

  13. #178
    I think my Weber 32/36 DGV (similar to the Holley 5200) is 270 cfm. It's progressive so it's running 1bbl most of the time until your just past halfway to WOT.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  14. #179
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Gary, don't let the man drag you down. I like the four barrel. When you get it dialed in, I'm sure we will all be jealous. I appreciate the unique... I'm thinking of going with the fuel delivery of an eye dropper being gravity fed by a Korean era GI canteen.

  15. #180
    Good luck, maybe dual quads would look nice also, but now you can go and dial it in for him, and patrick, me , kenny and freddy can go to the drags sometime and we will see....jh

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