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Thread: 1963 - 1965 V-8 original coil springs

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by ew1usnr View Post
    How do you cut the springs? Do you use a hack saw?
    Cut the coils from the bottom of the springs where it meets the perch. The top is milled flat and needs to stay that way to fit inside the shock tower properly.

    I hacksaw works well but will be slow going. I usually use a cutoff wheel on a 1/4 air tool. An angle grinder or sawzall will also work. Cut both sides the same amount.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  2. #17
    Dennis,

    I really can't say why I changed them. More money than sense most likely.

    I will say, contrary to what Patrick indicated, the Moog 8088's I got were not milled flat. They were wound to seem flatter on one end, and a note inside said, in essence, this is just fine dandy - not to worry. The 3-year old springs were ground flat on one end.

    Not sure what NW Falcons sold back when they were in business, but that's where all the parts I bought off Craigslist came from. I do know the spring wire diameter was larger than the new 8088's. The 8088's with one coil cut off set the ride exactly where I wanted it.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Can you just compress the springs a bit and cut the springs while they are still on the car or do they have to come all the way off due to clearance for the saw/grinding disk?

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

  4. #19
    They should come out. Your already there - so much easier. I use a rotary cutoff wheel to make quick work of it.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  5. #20

    Springs

    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    I will say, contrary to what Patrick indicated, the Moog 8088's I got were not milled flat. They were wound to seem flatter on one end, and a note inside said, in essence, this is just fine dandy - not to worry. The 3-year old springs were ground flat on one end.

    The 8088's with one coil cut off set the ride exactly where I wanted it.
    Hello, Roger.

    The 8088's are described as being flat on one end (bottom) and tangential on the other. Here is a site that explains that tangential ends are the ones that can be cut: http://www.eatondetroitspring.com/cutting-coil-springs/

    When you say that cutting a coil "set the ride exactly where I wanted it", do you mean level or slightly nose down?
    Did the nose stick up initially? If so, by how much?
    How much (in inches) did cutting one coil lower the nose?
    Did the ride seem stiffer afterwards?

    Inquiring minds want to know.
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

  6. #21
    Dennis,

    Yes, the 8088's were "wound flat" meaning the wire was just bent on the end to make a flat-ish surface, meaning it would sit vertical if sat upside down on the floor. The others were actually ground to have an actual flat section of spring (spring wire in the shape of a 'D'). You do cut the opposite end.

    My problem was never really having the car in the "before" state and never measuring the car at all when it had the 3-year old springs. I can measure it now if that will help you? With the 8088's with one coil cut in a V8 car.

    The 3 year old springs were fine with the 6 cyl that was in it, perhaps a bit on the stiff side, but sat a little lower once paired with the V8, which was fine. You can see my sig pic: that was with a 6 cyl and the 3 year old springs (1 year old at the time, or less). Unfortunately that picture also had the new "wagon" rear leafs and Monroe SensaTracs, which had coil-overs too. Way too high and stiff in the back for what will mostly always be a lightly loaded truck at best. With the regular shocks in back it ws a way better ride, but was still too high in back.

    When I redid the front-end this last time I also lowered the rear another inch for a total of 2" using shims I got from Doghows (Steve).

    Right now, apart from needing to figure a way to move the rear-end forward in my wheel flare another inch, I like the stance. I can't move the rear-end forward yet because there is no way to "key" into the leaf and rear-end with aftermarket lowering blocks as easily. They are mostly hollow extruded rectangular tube cut to length. Because my "wheel flare" requires the tire to center into the flare - the one downside of this mod - I need to shorten my drive-line 1 inch and machine billet spacer blocks with special holes and pins to key the rear-end exactly where I want it. It's jury-rigged at the moment, but still off-set back about an inch more than I'd like it. I notice it all the time, which bugs me, and now everyone else will now that I've called attention to it.

    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    977
    Roger, could you drill a second depression in the "shims" to move the banjo where you want it?


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, EFI, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

  8. #23
    Gene, it's a little more complex than that. The blocks I have look like this:

    liftblock.jpg

    The better block would look like this:

    betterblock.jpg

    Currently the upper pin (of the spacer) is engaged in the rear axle housing, but the leaf pin is floating in large open cavity. In addition the lower shock attaching plate, which I've already drilled to a new spot (that's how the hollow blocks are somewhat functional now) will need to be modified again. The real problem is that the bolt in the leaf spring is used for center of the axle and it is for the wheels being way forward in the wheel opening (as Falcons all are) and I had to move them back quite a bit when I then had my drive line cut. Well, it is too far back and I can't move it forward without first shortening my drive line. Real Soon Now. Then I can make a true custom block to really key everything in. I also really need to verify, with everything lowered now, that my drive line angles are not out of kilter.
    Last edited by Luva65wagon; September 16th, 2014 at 11:09 AM.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    977
    Oops! Didn't realize blocks were made like the ones you have. Mine are the solid kind you also pictured.


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, EFI, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

  10. #25
    No worries - Someday I'll find some or make some solider ones and that will make it all gooder. Hate the idea of having to shorten drive line though. Just had that one made! Might be a winter project - assuming other 'project' gets done.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  11. #26
    Back to our regularly scheduled thread....
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  12. #27
    My $0.02.

    My Ranchero had the front coils cut by supposedly 1 coil to lower it 3" by the previous owner.

    I will be removing those springs because of the bone jarring nature of hitting small imperfections/changes in street heights. The bump stops are shredded.

    I bought 1" lowering springs (Global West S23) that are lower than stock height (11.5", .655" dia Wire) but supposedly stiffer.

    Should be able to get them installed in the next 3 weeks along with a 1" front stabilizer bar.

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    My problem was never really having the car in the "before" state and never measuring the car at all when it had the 3-year old springs. I can measure it now if that will help you? With the 8088's with one coil cut in a V8 car.
    Hello, Roger.

    I used a tape measure and and found that with my new springs the inner edge of top of the bumper where it wraps around the left fender is now at 22 ½”.

    What is the height of the top of your bumper measured at the same spot?

    Thanks, Dennis.
    Last edited by ew1usnr; September 17th, 2014 at 03:05 AM.
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

  14. #29
    Dennis,

    I typically measure the upper radii of the fender flare (assuming stock flares, which my Ranchero, on the back, isn't). I also measure to body lines. I'd prefer to measure body panels than the bumper, because it is bolted on and could be higher or lower depending on the slop in the bolt holes that hold it on. Body lines are more consistent car-to-car. So I will (since we are talking front, here) measure tonight to the very top of the fender flare relative to the C/L of the wheel. See picture for clarity.

    The rear measurement is there for the heck of it, but I usually use that profile line of the car front and rear to check for level - at least on a round body Falcon. Would not work on a 64/65 since that body line tapers going fore/aft.

    Height.jpg

    Thanks to Steve for the further exploitation of his car.
    Last edited by Luva65wagon; September 17th, 2014 at 09:53 AM.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  15. #30

    Back on level.

    I went back to the mechanic who had installed all the new front end pieces and explained that I was happy with the ride and handling but that the nose was too high. He said he could trim the new 8088 coil springs and that he had done it before. That sounded good so I left the car with him the day before yesterday. He called me at work today and said that the car was ready.

    The picture is dim because the weather was really lousy this evening. We are getting rained on by the remnants of hurricane Odile that hit Baja California a few days ago. It crossed the southwest and the Gulf of Mexico and hit Tampa. But anyway, ...... Tah Dah! I think that the mechanic nailed it. The car is level again like it is supposed to be.
    3 8088 springs trimmed of one coil.jpg

    He said that he trimmed off a full coil to get it level. The front bumper had previously measured 22.5 inches high and now it measures 19 5/8 inches. That is a full 2.875 inches lower that its previous height (as shown below). The following picture was with the un-trimmed 8088 springs. I felt like I was driving uphill.
    2 New 8088 coil springs.jpg

    The top of the door height had measured 38.75 inches high and now measures 37 inches, the same 37 inch height that the doors had with the original coil springs (see below). The following photo shows the car with its original springs.
    1 Original coil springs.jpg

    The new springs and shocks and sway bar bushings and everything else really improved this cars ride and handling. I made a sudden hard right turn (at low speed!) to try to get some body roll. The tire treads shrieked and the the P175/80 13-inch tires were skipping like they were just at the edge of breaking free, and I didn't notice any body roll. The suspension allows the car to roll over speed bumps comfortably and without being jolted and the the car rides smooth and straight at 70 mph. Whew! I am going to take a break from changing anything else and just start driving this car again.
    Last edited by ew1usnr; September 20th, 2014 at 03:42 AM.
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

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